Fuel line project:
During installation of the touch control unit on my Cub and removal of the fuel tank/hood I forgot to detach the fuel line which bent the line. It needed replacing anyways. Hence start the fuel line ferrule issue. I ordered a new line from Steiner that included the IH ferrule. The ferrule was extremely tight to even slide on the line to the point I had to emery cloth the end. The IH ferrule is a one piece ferrule that is supposed to breakoff when tightening and seal to the line. No mater the amount of force I used this never happened and leaked. I tighten this beyond what I was comfortable and it still leaked on the carb inlet side. Read a lot on here about similar problems with the newer IH fitting... Long story shorter, I ended up scrapping that new line and fitting and made my own using 5/16 double flared brake line... I had to shorten a 20" line and reflare the cut end. I found (after much searching) an adapter for both the carb inlet and fuel strainer threads (1/2-20) to a 5/16" (1/2 -20) inverted flare for the double flared brake line. The double flare wont work directly in the carb inlet or strainer fitting as it doesn't have an inverted seat. The setup works great and has no leaks, plus the fuel line can be easily removed anytime and reinstalled. Adapter Part # EDD-265500 by Edelmann thru Summit Racing
Front Blade Project:
I installed the 54a front blade on my Cub after I first bought it. Problem is that my rear wheels are set all the way out (dish out) with wheel weights on the outside so I’m pushing snow narrower then my wheels which really doesn’t make sense. I need the wheels out this wide for the belly mower set up I have. I really didn’t want to keep having to change my wheels so my solution was the make the 54” blade wider. As seen below, I added 9” extensions to each side cut from another blade I bought off Ethan, (72” wide total) welded a back plate to stiffen the joint between the old and new blade on the extension sections only and then bought 3/16 steel I had sized and replaced the bottom blade and the extension. Drilled and milled the holes to match the existing blade and extensions. It is fully removeable by simply removing the new extension and bottom blade and replacing it with the originals if I wanted to go back to the 54”.
Hopefully this will help others.
Thank you,
