Cub 22 parts

[SwiftAce]

Hi, I've been looking for some knives and a couple guards for my as far as I can tell Cub 22 sickle bar, but the P/N given on this site for TSC knives and guards don't fit. The knives were too thick and I'd have to bend the hold downs quite a bit in order to get them to fit, and the guards from what I remember had a different bolt pattern I think?(I tried last summer, and I can't remember quite what was different about them) The TSC part numbers that I tried were: 1211206 for the knives, and 1201366 for the quard. Looking at the current guards that are on there, the part numbers on them are MC2041 and the ones listed on the PDF for TSC part numbers were MC2041Z, so that is probably my problem for the guards, but does anyone have a correct part number for the blades and knives that would work? I hope this link works, it has some pictures of the guards and knives that still had somewhat ledgible part numbers. Also, does anyone have any tips on how to get rid of rust chunks in the gas tank? I've tried a vinegar soak, then rinse with baking soda to neutralize the acid, and pressure washing the tank really well to the point where the entire visible parts of the tank were clean, but the surface rust just keeps coming back. I'm trying to get this done on a budget, but I'd thought I'd ask, it'd be nice to not have to use a zip tied lawn mower tank to fuel the tractor
https://imgur.com/a/zgrIUsW

[Glen]

Hi,
MC2041Z is the full part number for the guards at Case IH.
They only put MC 2041 on the guards, I don't know why.

The bolts go up through the MC2041 guards. In your pics it looks like you have some guards that the bolts go down through.
The cutter bar made for use with the MC 2041 guards has no countersunk bolt holes on the top, it is just flat where the bolts are.
To change the direction of the bolts, you need to fill in the countersunk part of the hole.
Case IH has, or did have, a tapered washer for that.

Some people on here use car or truck wheel nuts, with a tapered end.
NAPA might have wheel nuts that will fit.

The hold down clips for use with the MC2041 guards have no countersunk holes.

Case IH has light duty, or heavy duty knives for the Cub 22 mower. The heavy duty knives are thicker material than the light duty knives. So if you put a heavy duty knife on a knife bar that has all light duty knives, and the hold down clips are adjusted for the light duty knives, the heavy duty knife won't go under the hold down clip.
It's better to use all the same duty knives on the same knife bar.
I use the serrated knives, they seem to cut better than the smooth knives.

Case IH still has parts for the mowers, the last time I looked.

Below is the Cub 22 Mower owner's manual, it has lots of info, and shows how to put the mower on the Cub. It is for the older mowers that use the special IH tapered head bolts to hold it on the clutch housing.
The pics can help you identify if the mower you have is a Cub 22 Mower.
You don't use the manual lift lever shown in the manual, if the Cub has Touch Control.

http://www.farmallcub.info/galleries/ci ... _Mower.asp

Below is the newer 22 Mower operator's manual, it is for 3 different mowers, for 3 different models of IH tractors. The brackets and other parts are different for the 3 tractors, the pics show the differences.
It has a section for cutter bar maintenance, which is helpful, and good to read.
There is a table of contents on page 2.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

If the area around the bolt holes in the mower brackets are tapered, it is supposed to use the IH tapered head bolts.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for the IH style, tapered head bolts to hold it onto the clutch housing.
The tapered head bolts are used to help hold the mower on with the vibration it has during use.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/gb/324fp.htm

The rear mower bracket uses 1 tapered head bolt to hold it to the left final drive. It is longer than the 1" bolt above. The manual says to leave the drawbar on the Cub, with the mower.
Below is a listing.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sp/445fp.htm

The bolt holes have to have good threads. Sometimes the threads are wornout.
People on here have put repair coils in the threads.

Tighten the bolts tight, with a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket, and check them during use, they can loosen.

The bolt at the front bar, that holds the end in the square hole should be a setscrew, so it holds onto the bar in the square hole. The setscrew has an end made to dig into the square bar, and hold it in place.
The setscrew should have a lock nut too.
It's not good if the bolt loosens, and the end falls out of the square hole when you are mowing.
The setscrew should be checked for tightness some during use too, it can wear into the bar end, and be loose.

Below is a pic of a setscrew to use.

[Eugene]

POR or Red-Kote are two gas tank sealers that folks on this site have used.

Either works well. Just follow the directions.

Search this site for usage and comments on either product.

[tmays]

I’ve used knives from tsc with no problem. Most likely all your knives need replaced anyway

[SwiftAce]

Thanks for all the great info guys, really appreciate it. I'll pick up some knives then and get to replacing them. So I can just bend/adjust the current hold downs to accept the heavier duty knives?

[Glen]

Hi,
Yes, you can bend the hold down clips up or down where they contact the knives, they are sometimes hard to bend.

Sometime back I looked, and Webb Cutting Components had complete new knife bars, with serrated or plain knives, and light duty or heavy duty knives.
Also with or without the cutting head, where the pitman attaches to.
I think they had the 5' length to work with a Cub mower, if you would rather buy a complete knife bar.
But I looked and I don't see that they have them anymore, so I don't know.
The company is online.

If you don't want that, and replace knives on the bar you have, after you are done riveting knives on it, it needs to be checked for straightness before putting it in the mower.

I hold the knife bar up to eye level at 1 end, and set the other end on the floor, and sight down the bottom side of it, along the rectangular bar. Have plenty of light to check it.
It should be straight up and down, and forward or back, along the whole length.
Bend it to be straight, if it is not straight.
If it needs straightening forward or back, you might need to put it in a vise, and hammer it.

[SwiftAce]

Sounds good. I'll get to work on it soon, if I remember, I'll update ya'll. Once again, appreciate all the help.