Minimum requirements for a valid compression test

[TinkerBolt]

Hi all, I have a newly acquired 1950 Cub that hasn't run in about 5 years. With a hand crank, I discovered the engine was seized so I removed the head and found cylinder 2 with water in it and some rust. After a night of soaking, I was able to pretty easily free it up. I have cleaned up that cylinder and would like to do a compression test on all the cylinders to see what I am starting with. My question is what are the minimum steps I need to take to put the head back on to just get valid compression readings? For example, can I reuse the head gasket (it looks in very good condition)? Can I reuse the bolts? Do I really need to torque them all the way to 45 ft/lbs? I have the carb completely off - do I need to re-install it? I know the throttle has to be wide open for the test so I figured there would be no harm in having the carb off altogether. I stripped all the electrical and don't have a battery yet. Can I get a compression test with just the hand crank? Appreciate any advice.

[Barnyard]

For testing you can use the current gasket and bolts. The bolts don't need to be torqued for testing, but at least snug. I don't see why you can't do it with out the manifold. Use the ignition to turn the engine over. You will never turn it fast enough with a hand crank. You can use a battery by hooking a jumper cable to a ground spot on the cub and the other end to the top of the starter switch.

[TinkerBolt]

Ran both dry and wet compression tests last night. Dry test came back with 50 psi on 3 of 4 cylinders, but #2 cylinder only showed 30 psi. Wet test came back at 80 psi on 3 of the 4 and #2 was only 50. I'm not surprised at the lack of compression on #2. When I got the tractor, the engine was seized and cylinder 2 was filled with water. After I got it unstuck, the cylinder walls were pitted from rust. Are there any options to remedy that other than removing the block and having it re-bored?

[Eugene]

After I got it unstuck, the cylinder walls were pitted from rust. Are there any options to remedy that other than removing the block and having it re-bored?

Disassemble the engine. Pass or two with cylinder hone. Check for pitting.

No pits, measure everything.