1950 Cub in Cool, CA

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Clemsonfor
501 Club
501 Club
Posts: 887
Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2019 5:14 pm
Zip Code: 29848
Tractors Owned: Yanmar YM2000
Yanmar YM186 (non running)
1952 Farmall Cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Greenwood County SC

Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby Clemsonfor » Thu Apr 28, 2022 7:56 am

Yea, I know we all say it. But they really don't care it seems in a lot of this aftermarket stuff anymore. Use to be the quality wasn't as good but acceptable or you might have to file this or bend a little this bracket to make something work. But it's just not even close on many things these days. The radiator that's talked about is one. In most vehicles it wouldn't matter if the radiator neck was a half inch shorter but in this application it matters but they probably don't have an understanding of the fitment or application to know if this change or measurement is ok.

I was rebuilding the carb on an older Evinrude outboard for my brother in law. We just ordered a cheap kit off eBay. Many parts on The carbs on those engines were the same for decades and for many different HPs so it's not like there are a bunch of different parts. Well the float was some sketchy looking plastic, I refused the older one in the carb, don't think it was even oem though. The seat for the beadle was a different thread and didn't even want to start in the carb body so I used the original. I did use the new rubber gasket for the bowl but have read some people saying they don't last like they should so now I am thinking we'll am I going to have to take it off in a year or two and replace the gasket? If so I will do it and chalk it up to a lesson learned...I should of stuck with the name I often use in marine aftermarket.

Stoffregen Motorsports
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun May 30, 2021 10:27 am
Zip Code: 95614

Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby Stoffregen Motorsports » Thu Apr 28, 2022 12:09 pm

Admittedly, I did not pursue learning anything about the cheap radiators before I ordered one, so in the name of education, I'll fill you in on what I find. One of my basic philosophies is that anything can be fixed, built or made to work, but if that means machining a 1/2 spacer to lift the cheap radiator, I can find better ways to spend my time. If the fit is that bad, I'll return it and order up a quality radiator. I could also have my local radiator shop solder in a taller filler neck, but that follows the old mantra "throwing good money after bad" or "stepping over a dollar to save a dime".

I had planned on letting the tractor sit, while I threw money at other projects, but I just don't have the will power. Walking past it every day, knowing full well that it runs fine and all it needs is a tiny bit of attention, I caved and decided to get it back on the road, er- pasture maybe.

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Don McCombs
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Posts: 16222
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
Zip Code: 21550
Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake

Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby Don McCombs » Thu Apr 28, 2022 1:00 pm

Have you looked into having your existing radiator re-cored at your local radiator shop?
Don McCombs
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SamsFarm
501 Club
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Zip Code: 44410
Tractors Owned: 1968 Cub Fast Hitch
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144 Cultivators
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F38 Disk
L-F3 Spring Tooth Harrow
Fast Hitch CS Bell 60 Grain Mill
Home Made Fast Hitch Potato Plow
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Couple 1948 Cubs
172 Runner Planter
53 Fertilizer
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Location: Ne Ohio

Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby SamsFarm » Thu Apr 28, 2022 1:12 pm

Depending on circumstances, maybe your radiator only needs a bit of solder in the area leaking! ???

Makes me wonder how many on here has replaced a radiator without trying to fix the original one first!

Stoffregen Motorsports
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun May 30, 2021 10:27 am
Zip Code: 95614

Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby Stoffregen Motorsports » Thu Apr 28, 2022 2:49 pm

Fair point. My radiator is undoubtedly original and is very crusty. It's missing whole fins from the lower section of the core, probably from sitting dirty for years and turning to dust. It leaks, but not horrifically. I did ask my local radiator shop about re-coring it and he said it would be less expensive to buy a new radiator.

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Don McCombs
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Posts: 16222
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Zip Code: 21550
Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake

Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby Don McCombs » Thu Apr 28, 2022 3:52 pm

Let us know where you get your new radiator from and how it fits.
Don McCombs
MD, Deep Creek Lake

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Stoffregen Motorsports
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Joined: Sun May 30, 2021 10:27 am
Zip Code: 95614

Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby Stoffregen Motorsports » Tue May 03, 2022 12:23 pm

The radiator showed up yesterday and looks to be pretty good quality. I took some preliminary measurements and it appears to be close, maybe a little wide at the base, but the height looks legit. I'll know more after I disassemble the tractor.

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Glen
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Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby Glen » Tue May 03, 2022 6:25 pm

Hi,
It only takes a small amount wider and the side channels won't fit right.
Also the holes at the bottom of the new radiator may not line up with the bolt holes in the casting, if the new radiator is wider.

I would measure it closely. :)

Stoffregen Motorsports
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun May 30, 2021 10:27 am
Zip Code: 95614

Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby Stoffregen Motorsports » Wed May 04, 2022 12:44 pm

Yep, that's why I mentioned it. That may be the sticking point.

Stoffregen Motorsports
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun May 30, 2021 10:27 am
Zip Code: 95614

Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby Stoffregen Motorsports » Mon May 09, 2022 11:13 am

Update -

I received the lower radiator tank and upper steering bracket (not sure of the industry names here...) from JP Tractor Salvage last week and was able to mock the new radiator up to check for fit. So far, so good. All the bolt holes line up. The width discrepancy is at the corners of the new radiator. They are not rounded off like the OEM radiator, so they will hit the grill. I'll just round them off on the belt sander prior to install.

The lower tanks they sell are all cleaned and mag'd, then primed, and I wanted mine to match the original patina. I called a painter friend and he told me how to create rust with basic household ingredients. 16oz hydrogen peroxide, 2oz white vinegar and 1 tbsp salt, mixed together and sprayed on the metal. Before I did that, I blasted portions of the tank in the blast cabinet (with 60-80 grit garnet) and then sprayed in spots with correct red paint, then blasted that again, then sprayed it with the concoction. The results are amazing. The colors and patina are almost a dead match for the lower tank that's on the tractor now. I'll get some pics and show you guys when I get around to assembly time.

69ranger
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Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub, 1952 Cub, 1953 Cub, 1946 Farmall A, 1949 Farmall M, 1956 IH 130, 1979 IH 140, 1959 Farmall 240.
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1969 F-100 fully restored, 1969 F 100 original paint, 1973 F 100, 50 K original miles all original, 1978 F250 repainted, 1978 Bronco, 1967 Mustang, 1973 Mach ! Mustang.
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Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby 69ranger » Mon May 09, 2022 1:38 pm

That sounds really good. I have never tried to create patina, and when the need comes, I will remember this.


I forgot.... Where did you say that the new radiator come from?

Best regards,
Brad

Clemsonfor
501 Club
501 Club
Posts: 887
Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2019 5:14 pm
Zip Code: 29848
Tractors Owned: Yanmar YM2000
Yanmar YM186 (non running)
1952 Farmall Cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Greenwood County SC

Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby Clemsonfor » Mon May 09, 2022 4:25 pm

I love it!! So many folks on her blast, sand, and or use electrolysis acid etc to remove everything down to bare shiny metal then paint it back with some amazing car show quality mirror finish that would of never been originally laid down to begin with. I respect both ways and what goes into it but the older I get the more I am drawn to an original tractor, car, or truck, even the old beaten ones.

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goxu1
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Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby goxu1 » Tue May 10, 2022 2:37 am

Don McCombs wrote:I think you may find that the problems with the cheap radiators are not one of function, but of fit.


You'll have trouble with the expensive ones too !
Cripes - I thought I'd never get one.

Stoffregen Motorsports
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun May 30, 2021 10:27 am
Zip Code: 95614

Re: 1950 Cub in Cool, CA

Postby Stoffregen Motorsports » Tue May 10, 2022 11:35 am

I don't know if I'm in the minority here, but I feel that old stuff that survived deserves to wear its original finish. If you're building from scratch, sure, go ahead and refinish everything. There's an old saying in my business - you can restore a vehicle 100 times over, but it's only original once.

You'd be surprised how the finish came out. The colors are a dead match. The only thing I would like to spend more time on is recreating the "chipped" paint effect. I figure a needle-scaler could help with that.

Really, so the same fitment problems happen with the more expensive radiators? That makes me feel better.


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