1950 Cub in Cool, CA

[Clemsonfor]

Yea, I know we all say it. But they really don't care it seems in a lot of this aftermarket stuff anymore. Use to be the quality wasn't as good but acceptable or you might have to file this or bend a little this bracket to make something work. But it's just not even close on many things these days. The radiator that's talked about is one. In most vehicles it wouldn't matter if the radiator neck was a half inch shorter but in this application it matters but they probably don't have an understanding of the fitment or application to know if this change or measurement is ok.

I was rebuilding the carb on an older Evinrude outboard for my brother in law. We just ordered a cheap kit off eBay. Many parts on The carbs on those engines were the same for decades and for many different HPs so it's not like there are a bunch of different parts. Well the float was some sketchy looking plastic, I refused the older one in the carb, don't think it was even oem though. The seat for the beadle was a different thread and didn't even want to start in the carb body so I used the original. I did use the new rubber gasket for the bowl but have read some people saying they don't last like they should so now I am thinking we'll am I going to have to take it off in a year or two and replace the gasket? If so I will do it and chalk it up to a lesson learned...I should of stuck with the name I often use in marine aftermarket.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Admittedly, I did not pursue learning anything about the cheap radiators before I ordered one, so in the name of education, I'll fill you in on what I find. One of my basic philosophies is that anything can be fixed, built or made to work, but if that means machining a 1/2 spacer to lift the cheap radiator, I can find better ways to spend my time. If the fit is that bad, I'll return it and order up a quality radiator. I could also have my local radiator shop solder in a taller filler neck, but that follows the old mantra "throwing good money after bad" or "stepping over a dollar to save a dime".

I had planned on letting the tractor sit, while I threw money at other projects, but I just don't have the will power. Walking past it every day, knowing full well that it runs fine and all it needs is a tiny bit of attention, I caved and decided to get it back on the road, er- pasture maybe.

[Don McCombs]

Have you looked into having your existing radiator re-cored at your local radiator shop?

[SamsFarm]

Depending on circumstances, maybe your radiator only needs a bit of solder in the area leaking! ???

Makes me wonder how many on here has replaced a radiator without trying to fix the original one first!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Fair point. My radiator is undoubtedly original and is very crusty. It's missing whole fins from the lower section of the core, probably from sitting dirty for years and turning to dust. It leaks, but not horrifically. I did ask my local radiator shop about re-coring it and he said it would be less expensive to buy a new radiator.

[Don McCombs]

Let us know where you get your new radiator from and how it fits.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The radiator showed up yesterday and looks to be pretty good quality. I took some preliminary measurements and it appears to be close, maybe a little wide at the base, but the height looks legit. I'll know more after I disassemble the tractor.

[Glen]

Hi,
It only takes a small amount wider and the side channels won't fit right.
Also the holes at the bottom of the new radiator may not line up with the bolt holes in the casting, if the new radiator is wider.

I would measure it closely.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yep, that's why I mentioned it. That may be the sticking point.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Update -

I received the lower radiator tank and upper steering bracket (not sure of the industry names here...) from JP Tractor Salvage last week and was able to mock the new radiator up to check for fit. So far, so good. All the bolt holes line up. The width discrepancy is at the corners of the new radiator. They are not rounded off like the OEM radiator, so they will hit the grill. I'll just round them off on the belt sander prior to install.

The lower tanks they sell are all cleaned and mag'd, then primed, and I wanted mine to match the original patina. I called a painter friend and he told me how to create rust with basic household ingredients. 16oz hydrogen peroxide, 2oz white vinegar and 1 tbsp salt, mixed together and sprayed on the metal. Before I did that, I blasted portions of the tank in the blast cabinet (with 60-80 grit garnet) and then sprayed in spots with correct red paint, then blasted that again, then sprayed it with the concoction. The results are amazing. The colors and patina are almost a dead match for the lower tank that's on the tractor now. I'll get some pics and show you guys when I get around to assembly time.

[69ranger]

That sounds really good. I have never tried to create patina, and when the need comes, I will remember this.


I forgot.... Where did you say that the new radiator come from?

Best regards,
Brad

[Clemsonfor]

I love it!! So many folks on her blast, sand, and or use electrolysis acid etc to remove everything down to bare shiny metal then paint it back with some amazing car show quality mirror finish that would of never been originally laid down to begin with. I respect both ways and what goes into it but the older I get the more I am drawn to an original tractor, car, or truck, even the old beaten ones.

[goxu1]

I think you may find that the problems with the cheap radiators are not one of function, but of fit.

You'll have trouble with the expensive ones too !

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I don't know if I'm in the minority here, but I feel that old stuff that survived deserves to wear its original finish. If you're building from scratch, sure, go ahead and refinish everything. There's an old saying in my business - you can restore a vehicle 100 times over, but it's only original once.

You'd be surprised how the finish came out. The colors are a dead match. The only thing I would like to spend more time on is recreating the "chipped" paint effect. I figure a needle-scaler could help with that.

Really, so the same fitment problems happen with the more expensive radiators? That makes me feel better.