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Oil in magneto?
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- Cub Star
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sat May 29, 2021 4:34 am
- Zip Code: 04428
Re: Oil in magneto?
Wow! Thanks for the exploded view, I’m gonna print that out! I’m on the Wheel horse forum, (a Kohler man ) and I’ve had a Wheel Horse apart in front of me too many times. I’m starting with a Farmall Cub! It’s just a Farmall Cub is just an entirely different ball of wax!! Anyway!!….. there is a spring hooked form the gov rod (#30) to the radiator… as to put spring tension on the gov rod… I’m about to find out what that’s all about! It could be the worn key or lack of oil. The tractor looks like it been ridden hard and put away wet…. For the later years of its life. I want to do it right, and my great Grandfather has rolled over in his grave and is watching me!
- Glen
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6146
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Oil in magneto?
Hi,
When you have the governor apart, check the pins that hold the 2 weights on, and the holes in the weights for wear. They should fit with no wear. The governor won't work well if they are worn.
Twist the weights from side to side, they should not be worn, but should work freely in and out.
When you have the governor apart, check the pins that hold the 2 weights on, and the holes in the weights for wear. They should fit with no wear. The governor won't work well if they are worn.
Twist the weights from side to side, they should not be worn, but should work freely in and out.
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- Cub Star
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sat May 29, 2021 4:34 am
- Zip Code: 04428
Re: Oil in magneto?
Hi,
Where are the marks on the gears? On the magneto side or on the radiator side? The engine is at TDC #1. I wanna make sure I mark the gears before hand. I have to remove the 2 nuts on part # 20, right?
Where are the marks on the gears? On the magneto side or on the radiator side? The engine is at TDC #1. I wanna make sure I mark the gears before hand. I have to remove the 2 nuts on part # 20, right?
- Glen
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6146
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Oil in magneto?
Hi,
The timing marks are on the rear facing side of the gears.
Read my first post on June 22, on page 1 of this post. There is a link to a post showing the timing marks.
There are 2 bolts holding number 20 in the parts pic onto the engine.
Don't disturb the adjustment of the bolt with the lock nut on the front of the governor. It is number 17 in the pic.
The timing marks are on the rear facing side of the gears.
Read my first post on June 22, on page 1 of this post. There is a link to a post showing the timing marks.
There are 2 bolts holding number 20 in the parts pic onto the engine.
Don't disturb the adjustment of the bolt with the lock nut on the front of the governor. It is number 17 in the pic.
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- Cub Star
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sat May 29, 2021 4:34 am
- Zip Code: 04428
Re: Oil in magneto?
Ok, I’ve got the governor out…..but (I’m lost!). I didn’t mark the gears. I got it at TDC #1. But the seal was in the way, and the governor housing was in the way. I AM going to mark it once the seals out of the way. The governor gear was covered in black oil… I AM going to mark that too. Or is it to late for marking them?
Another question; the governor has no spring on it whatsoever. You push it wide open and it just stays there. Is there something broke inside the governor?
I really hope I have not got this so out of whack….
Another question; the governor has no spring on it whatsoever. You push it wide open and it just stays there. Is there something broke inside the governor?
I really hope I have not got this so out of whack….
- Bill V in Md
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 1124
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 6:51 pm
- Zip Code: 21228
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
LT1045 Cub Cadet - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Catonsville
- Contact:
Re: Oil in magneto?
As long as you have the Cub's ignition at TDC compression stroke on cylinder #1, you are ok. If that is the case, when you remove the governor seal, put a mark on the idler gear where the timing mark is. If you have it TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder, the timing mark on the idler gear should be visible. Then place a mark on the governor gear timing mark. When you reinstall the governor you will have to position the governor gear so that its timing mark meshes with the corresponding timing mark on the idler gear.
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
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- Cub Star
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sat May 29, 2021 4:34 am
- Zip Code: 04428
Re: Oil in magneto?
Bill V in Md wrote:As long as you have the Cub's ignition at TDC compression stroke on cylinder #1, you are ok. If that is the case, when you remove the governor seal, put a mark on the idler gear where the timing mark is. If you have it TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder, the timing mark on the idler gear should be visible. Then place a mark on the governor gear timing mark. When you reinstall the governor you will have to position the governor gear so that its timing mark meshes with the corresponding timing mark on the idler gear.
Ok, that’s what I thought! . If I were to clean it with a part washer and diesel fuel, that ok, right?
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- Cub Star
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sat May 29, 2021 4:34 am
- Zip Code: 04428
Re: Oil in magneto?
And, I can only open the throttle lever about half throttle before it won’t go any farther… but it will go down way beyond idle. Just throttle adjustment?
- Glen
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6146
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Oil in magneto?
Hi,
Yes, clean the parts with diesel or solvent.
The governor has to have a spring to work right. It is number 7 in the parts pic. It goes at the upper area of the governor housing, on the linkage.
Sometimes the spring breaks, then it needs a new spring.
The throttle lever will do nothing if the spring is broken, the one I saw, the engine just ran at low idle speed.
The people on here have said replacing an old spring with a new spring improves the working of the governor. While the governor is off is a good time to replace it.
The governor needs the correct spring, the spring has the right tension to work with the weights in the governor.
To replace it, I use a good pliers, and twist the wire end of the spring to the side, so it will go into the hole.
I think it works better to put the top end in first, but not sure.
TM Tractor has a new governor spring, below is their listing.
I would paint it before putting it on, it looks like bare metal in the pic, it can rust if it's bare metal.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/gv/357fp.htm
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of where the spring goes.
Also work oil into the throttle arm pivot, it is where the cotter key is. They commonly get tight from no oil. While the governor is off is a good time.
The 2nd pic below shows the high speed limit bolt on the governor. The throttle lever should move ahead until the stop on the arm hits the bottom end of the limit bolt.
A 1947 Cub engine should run 1800 RPM at full speed.
Yes, clean the parts with diesel or solvent.
The governor has to have a spring to work right. It is number 7 in the parts pic. It goes at the upper area of the governor housing, on the linkage.
Sometimes the spring breaks, then it needs a new spring.
The throttle lever will do nothing if the spring is broken, the one I saw, the engine just ran at low idle speed.
The people on here have said replacing an old spring with a new spring improves the working of the governor. While the governor is off is a good time to replace it.
The governor needs the correct spring, the spring has the right tension to work with the weights in the governor.
To replace it, I use a good pliers, and twist the wire end of the spring to the side, so it will go into the hole.
I think it works better to put the top end in first, but not sure.
TM Tractor has a new governor spring, below is their listing.
I would paint it before putting it on, it looks like bare metal in the pic, it can rust if it's bare metal.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/gv/357fp.htm
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of where the spring goes.
Also work oil into the throttle arm pivot, it is where the cotter key is. They commonly get tight from no oil. While the governor is off is a good time.
The 2nd pic below shows the high speed limit bolt on the governor. The throttle lever should move ahead until the stop on the arm hits the bottom end of the limit bolt.
A 1947 Cub engine should run 1800 RPM at full speed.
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- Cub Star
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sat May 29, 2021 4:34 am
- Zip Code: 04428
Re: Oil in magneto?
Oh ok! Thats the hi speed screw! (So to speak!)
One more question! I can only open the throttle lever just above half throttle, before it stops. I can make it down farther than the throttle goes beyond idle…. Just a throttle adjustment?
One more question! I can only open the throttle lever just above half throttle, before it stops. I can make it down farther than the throttle goes beyond idle…. Just a throttle adjustment?
- Glen
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6146
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Oil in magneto?
You didn't say if the governor has the spring like in the pics above, you said in a post that the governor has no spring.
If everything is as it originally should be, it sounds like the long throttle rod, from the lever to the governor might be the wrong length. Someone could have changed the length of the rod.
The rod has 2 bends in it at the rear of the engine, they are so it will go over the Touch Control unit.
They have to be there so the rod is the right length also.
Yoke number 2 in the parts pic may need adjusting on rod number 1, it has to be adjusted right so the governor will work right.
After you get the engine to run, it can be checked, don't change too many things when the engine doesn't run.
If everything is as it originally should be, it sounds like the long throttle rod, from the lever to the governor might be the wrong length. Someone could have changed the length of the rod.
The rod has 2 bends in it at the rear of the engine, they are so it will go over the Touch Control unit.
They have to be there so the rod is the right length also.
Yoke number 2 in the parts pic may need adjusting on rod number 1, it has to be adjusted right so the governor will work right.
After you get the engine to run, it can be checked, don't change too many things when the engine doesn't run.
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- Cub Star
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sat May 29, 2021 4:34 am
- Zip Code: 04428
Re: Oil in magneto?
Sorry. Glen, it has the spring like above. The spring is lose in the hole. Maybe a new spring will fix it. (I have already ordered another spring!) I was noticing that #1 rod had a threaded adjustment on it. I’ll wait till after I get it running. The throttle rod has two bends. Now time to get to work on the governor!
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- Team Cub
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Re: Oil in magneto?
If either hole the spring goes into is wallered out, you may need to fix that to remove some slop in the system.
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