Woods (?) mower blade bolt question...

[JustJim]

Hello gang-

I recently bought a '49 Cub for parts. It had a decrepit old mower under it which I've now installed on my '59 Cub. After finding a replacement for the PTO pulley, I found it was actually working pretty darn well - right up to the moment I crashed it into a sizeable rock hidden in a blackberry bush.

One blade is now swiveled back 90 degrees from it's correct position, and I've been attempting to loosen the mounting bolt without success. Using a cheater, I can put a significant bend in my 1/2" breaker bar without any sign of moving the nut. It's a BIG fastener, requiring a 1 5/16" socket, so I'm not surprised it's tight. I don't think it could be a left hand thread, but I have tried to apply force in both directions without any perceptible movement.

So a couple questions: Is this an early Woods mower? Anyone have experience with this unit and with these large mounting bolts? Can anyone confirm these are R/H threads?

I suspect I need to go buy a 3/4" breaker bar and eat my Wheaties, but if anyone has info on this contraption, I'd be grateful...

IMG_1572 by Jim QRB, on Flickr

IMG_1573 by Jim QRB, on Flickr

[Barnyard]

If it turns clockwise it is left hand thread.

[Bob McCarty]

You have an IH/Danco C-2 mower. The blades should swivel on 7/8" fine thread carriage bolts. I think it's a castellated nut, so you'll have to remove a cotter pin before you can loosen it.

[Glen]

Hi,
The mower looks in good condition in your pics.

Below is the C-2 operator's manual, if you don't have it, it has lots of info.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

[JustJim]

Thank you all very much - that will help me out. The nut is castellated, but I saw no cotter pin. I will double check tomorrow just in case I missed the obvious.

I do appreciate it!

[Jim Becker]

What exactly is the problem with the blade? Won't it just swivel back to the right position? Maybe you need some penetrating oil on the blade where the bolt goes through it.

[SONNY]

Jim! -- thats what I was thinking! --- dirt packs up in the joint and will make it solid. I have to clean mine and work them all the time to keep them freed up.

[inairam]

I have a C2 that the PO beat up. Make sure the spindle is greased the clutch is cleaned and oiled and everything is free. In addition to debris the PO many have overtightened the bolts which is hard to do but possible. I also greased the bolts and bushings holding the blade

as other have said You have to find the cotter pin in the castle nut. If you really get in trouble it is easy enough to remove pulley and drop the spindle down from the mower to get it out and in the sun for a better look.

The parts are available but expensive. You do not want to damage them. Here is a parts manual on Messicks site https://www.messicks.com/cas/145266

I like the C-2 and the woods 42 for the cub. They have the ability to cut high grass and lawn

[JustJim]

I read through the manual that Glen so kindly provided. I see that the blades should be able to self align after striking something, but these are not willing to move. I've been hosing down the fastener with penetrant but no joy yet.

I confirmed there was no cotter pin. Using a length of pipe for a cheater, my 1/2" breaker bar is flexing too much. Going to drive to town today and pony up for a 3/4" drive breaker bar and will see if I can do better.

I do appreciate all of the help fellows!

[Jim Becker]

We know it can move. It moved when it hit the rock.

[SamsFarm]

Going to drive to town today and pony up for a 3/4" drive breaker bar and will see if I can do better.

Before I would buy a 3/4" breaker bar, I would get the acetylene torch out and heat that nut up till it glows, then try again with the tools I have on hand!

Good luck either way!

[inairam]

I would pull the spindle out before getting a bigger hammer. the ends of the cotter pin may be gone but there could be enough left to stop the spin.

[JustJim]

Good thinking, but the nut has a big washer under it, and the castellations are standing proud of the bolt - no place to insert a cotter pin.

I haven't put the torch to it. I could try that first. Perhaps I've avoided doing so because I've been working on it out in the sun, and it has been hot, hot, HOT!

[JustJim]

Well, you fellows always steer me right - that's why I spend so much time reading and learning here!

A 3/4" breaker was going to set me back nearly $60, so I quit being lazy and hauled my torch out to the Cub. I heated that big 'ol nut good and hot, put the socket on it and it moved right away! But it was "talking" to me and didn't feel right, so I reversed directions. Turned out this particular bolt is a R/H thread, and the nut backed off sufficiently to let me knock the blade out straight. Just waiting for it to cool so I can pull it off completely and give the threads a little copper anti-seize.

You know, the internet is filled with nonsense and filth, but access to a forum such as this where experience is freely shared is a wonderful thing! Thanks to you all!

[SamsFarm]