Starter won't turn over, checked "everything" so now I'm lost

[ballardde]

Hello all,
I have a 1955 Cub that I converted to 12 volt about seven years ago. Just within the last month it won't start, the starter won't even turn over. The lights work and I pulled the battery and it tested good. I have used a meter to test all the wiring and all seems well. I thought maybe the ballast resistor was bad so replaced that, still no luck. If I used a battery charger, hook the negative up to the body of the starter and just touch the positive post it cranks. Any ideas? I'm at a loss. Not sure if it would keep it from starting but the bulb to indicate if the alternator is charging is burned out.
Thank you,
Doug

[Bob McCarty]

If you still have a 6 volt starter and bypassing the switch spins it, I'd take the starter button off and check the contacts.

[Dale Finch]

It's possibly bad battery cables, dirty/broken/corroded terminals, or, as mentioned, the switch on the starter.

You might also need to clean the mating surfaces of the starter and engine...you need clean contact for the starter ground.

[Glen]

Hi,
You could try cleaning all 4 cable ends, and where they attach to. Sand them with fine sandpaper, and wipe off all sanding with a clean rag.
Disconnect the ground cable first, and leave it disconnected until done, to prevent shorting.

If you remove the starter switch when looking at the starter, sand the contacts with fine sandpaper, and wipe off all sanding with a clean rag.
The contacts can burn with use.
If the contacts are burned too much, the switch needs replacing.

TM Tractor has a new starter switch, below is the listing.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/2543fp.htm

Sand the post on top of the starter case as little as you can, it has to stick up so the switch contact will contact it. The post is usually soldered inside the starter.

There should be 2 insulations inside the switch, 1 on each side. They have to be there to prevent shorting. Be sure they are in place as you put the switch on.

[ballardde]

If you still have a 6 volt starter and bypassing the switch spins it, I'd take the starter button off and check the contacts.

The starter button is new, contacts are clean, thanks.

[ballardde]

Hi,
You could try cleaning all 4 cable ends, and where they attach to. Sand them with fine sandpaper, and wipe off all sanding with a clean rag.
Disconnect the ground cable first, and leave it disconnected until done, to prevent shorting.

If you remove the starter switch when looking at the starter, sand the contacts with fine sandpaper, and wipe off all sanding with a clean rag.
The contacts can burn with use.
If the contacts are burned too much, the switch needs replacing.

TM Tractor has a new starter switch, below is the listing.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/2543fp.htm

Sand the post on top of the starter case as little as you can, it has to stick up so the switch contact will contact it. The post is usually soldered inside the starter.

There should be 2 insulations inside the switch, 1 on each side. They have to be there to prevent shorting. Be sure they are in place as you put the switch on.

Thanks for the reply. All of the mentioned contacts were sanded and checked. I'm guessing the battery contacts are good or the lights would not turn on. I don't recall seeing any insulators inside the switch, could that be the problem, grounding out?

[Don McCombs]

It takes a lot less power to operate the lights than it does the starter. Check those battery connections.

[indy61]

Was the battery load tested? If not it could be bad.

[ballardde]

Not sure if the battery was load tested. Rechecking battery connections.

[Clubless]

Whenever my starter will not crank over, it’s always turns out to be bad connections at the battery

[Dale Finch]

Whenever my starter will not crank over, it’s always turns out to be bad connections at the battery

Same here OR the switch on the starter. I actually had a new "nub" soldered onto one of my starters...even with the new switch, it wasn't making good enough contact.

[Glen]

Thanks for the reply. All of the mentioned contacts were sanded and checked. I'm guessing the battery contacts are good or the lights would not turn on. I don't recall seeing any insulators inside the switch, could that be the problem, grounding out?

Hi,
The lights use much less power than the starter, a bad connection that won't run the starter sometimes works good enough to make the lights work some.
You could see if the lights stay on when you try to run the starter, you might need another person to run the starter, or look at the lights.
The insulation in the switch prevents the moving parts in the switch from touching the sides of the switch, if the parts touched the metal of the sides of the switch, there would be lots of sparks, and probably smoke.
I don't know how it could work without the insulation, unless the brand of switch you bought has been changed inside so it cannot touch the sides of the switch.
I would check it, remove the switch and try to turn the bar in it, that is worked by the button, if it will turn and touch the sides of the switch, it needs insulation.
If you don't have insulations, people on here have said they can be made from thick plastic, I think someone said a plastic milk jug.
Below is a pic of them, you can see their shape.

[ballardde]

There is insulation just never noticed it.

[Nelson 634]

Run jumper cables from your battery to the starter as you did with your battery charger.
If it turns over the engine, Its not the battery.

On second thought, (" If I used a battery charger, hook the negative up to the body of the starter and just touch the positive post it cranks.") The battery post? (It's a bad ground) Check the ground of the starter.

[Clemsonfor]

Hello all,
I have a 1955 Cub that I converted to 12 volt about seven years ago. Just within the last month it won't start, the starter won't even turn over. The lights work and I pulled the battery and it tested good. I have used a meter to test all the wiring and all seems well. I thought maybe the ballast resistor was bad so replaced that, still no luck. If I used a battery charger, hook the negative up to the body of the starter and just touch the positive post it cranks. Any ideas? I'm at a loss. Not sure if it would keep it from starting but the bulb to indicate if the alternator is charging is burned out.
Thank you,
Doug

have you put 12v directly to the starter? That would be one of the first things I did to see if starter was good to know if it's a starter or something in-between the battery and it...meaning switch or wiring. Use jumper cables to get a large enough wire to flow the Amos needed to spin the motor.