Engine Work - Update

[Nelson 634]

I believe that bolts and nuts that have a specified torque setting and are torqued properly do not require lock nuts, loctite, lock washers or other devices to keep them in place. I have this belief due to a conversation I had with a fastener engineer with Lawson Products years ago. As previously stated by someone here, torquing a nut properly will stretch the threads and negate the need of an additional locking device. He (engineer) also advised to never reuse a stretched fastener as it would not be guaranteed to hold. Thus the adage don't re use head bolts, we hear so often. I did as he said and it solved a recurring problem I had on a piece of equipment. Hope this helps.

[Stanton]

Appreciate everyone's opinion, experience, and advice on the connecting rod nuts. The original nuts are on, torqued with a drop of Locktite. That's finished. If I have an engine crash after start up, I'll suffer the loss and you all can say, "I told you so." But that's where I'm leaving it.

Onward and upward.

Have had a fever for the last 4 days, so felt less than myself during some of the best weather in February for Missouri. Oh, well. So, this morning, woke up with no fever and it's below freezing outside; I mean, it's cold. Better not push it. Knowing the next assembly item is to install the front cover and install the magneto seal, I decided to descend into my basement woodworking shop to make a magneto seal depth gauge/driver, according to Raymond Durban's How to, found here:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=76420

The verbal instructions were clear and I could understand them perfectly. But being a visual type of learner, I thought I would use his text and add my pictures and comment in this thread to show you how I made some sawdust this morning. Besides, I know how much you all like pictures.

Received my mag seal from Hamilton Bob's (one of our sponsors). Quite reasonably priced, via ebay. Made a rough sketch of Raymond's description with dimensions.

Magneto Seal.

I have a bunch of walnut, including a scrap bin, that had the size I was needing. Selected a 3/4" thick piece, drew the outline of the outside diameter on the wood and then trimmed it down on the tablesaw.

Had a little thickness to remove, so ran a few light passes on the jointer/planer.

Then, using the oscilating belt sander, combo disc/belt sander, and finally (when things weren't going fast enough) brought out my homemade thickness planer/sander to get down to 23/32" (0.71875").

Oscilating belt sander.

Combo 4" x 6" belt disc sander.

Behemoth homemade thickness sander. I built this to made mandolins.

Finally.

Raymond's How To next states to cut out another piece of wood slightly larger in diameter. This will act as the lip to stop the driver from going any further. I decided upon an 1/4" larger diameter, giving me an 1/8" all around. Did the measuring, finding center, and cutting. Drilled a small pilot hole all the way through both pieces and took them to the lathe to smooth them down.

Found a 5/16" bolt of the proper length, drilled the hole through both and secured them together with the bolt and nut.

Finished with an appropriate label to remind me what in the heck this thing is in 3 years when I come across it.

You don't need all these tools. It can be made with a jigsaw, a rasp, and a drill (or whatever is available). The Lord's blessed me with these tools over a lifetime of accumulation and it felt good to be doing something productive again.

Can you insert a magneto seal to its proper depth without a driver like this? Sure you can. I've done it. But when you're retired and have time, material, and the tools to do it, you ask yourself, "Why not?" I look forward to using it very soon.
Hope you enjoyed it.

[Don McCombs]

Looks great, Stanton.

[Eugene]

I decided to descend into my basement woodworking shop to make a magneto seal depth gauge/driver.

I use a large socket. Tape on the socket to indicate the depth I want the seal installed.

[Jim Becker]

Note that the IH spec book calls for a depth of 22/32" in from the face of the crankcase casting. For you math wizards out there, that's an improper fraction. That reduces down to 11/16" where I was taught math and that equals 0.6875".

There is just one little catch. The spec is 23/32.

[ricky racer]

Very well done, Stanton!! Thanks for posting the pictures (yeah, we like pictures). It may help someone else in the future when installing their seal.

[Stanton]

Note that the IH spec book calls for a depth of 22/32" in from the face of the crankcase casting. For you math wizards out there, that's an improper fraction. That reduces down to 11/16" where I was taught math and that equals 0.6875".

There is just one little catch. The spec is 23/32.

You know, over the years, I've been wrong more than I've been right. Just a fraction off, in this case, 1/32". After each embarrassing episode (and I am very embarrassed at misreading Raymond's How to, because it clearly states 23/32" and I didn't go back to the Specifications Manual to verify), I say to myself, "That's it. I'm finished. No more posting things about showing people how to do this or what to do over there. I'll just get it wrong." So, now it's happened again.

For some of you who have attended the CubFests I've been to, this is exactly why I keep to myself and don't "present" a tutorial or give advice. Deep down, I'm afraid I'll screw it up for someone else.

Thank you, Jim, sincerely for bringing this up. I'll edit out the 22/32" portions and pictures, so no one else might get confused. I have no right to post such things like they're a guide to follow.

[Bob McCarty]

Stanton, It was an honest mistake and has been seen and corrected. I think having the pictorial is just as important as having everything 100% perfect. Please don't stop posting, I enjoy following your posts and I know many others do too.

[Don McCombs]

Stanton, we all make little errors now and then. That just proves we are human.

[staninlowerAL]

Stanton, It was an honest mistake and has been seen and corrected. I think having the pictorial is just as important as having everything 100% perfect. Please don't stop posting, I enjoy following your posts and I know many others do too.

Agree, 100% with Bob's response. Don't be so hard on yourself. Everyone who tries do do anything makes mistakes now and then. An even worse mistake would be not to to try at all. I for one, think you did a great job with the info and pictures.

[Eugene]

I agree, keep posting. Your tutorial on making the seal setting jig was quite good.

Been following your engine rebuild. Quite professional.

[Bill Hudson]

Mistake, we all make them - means you are human like the rest of us. Yes, keep posting your tutorials, they are jam packed with excellent information.

Bill

[k hutchins]

Hey Stanton, l've worked with wood my whole life. As stable as walnut is, we're talking about 1/32 of an inch. You can get that much variance between a dry or humid day.
The error was caught and corrected. No harm done, and the tutorial picttures will be my go to if and when l need to make one some day.
Keep posting, and documenting. The information is invaluable.

Hutch

[Jim Becker]

If we all worried about an occasional mistake in our postings, nobody would post anything. That would make for a rather dull site.

[Dale Finch]

OMG!!
You AREN'T perfect???!!!