Engine Work - Update
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- 501 Club
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- Zip Code: 29848
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1952 Farmall Cub - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Greenwood County SC
Re: Engine Work - Update
The original small block Chevy oil pan gaskets were 4 piece. Granted the semi circle parts for the pan were rubber and sides cork and due to shape couldn't be done like this. Is you did it right and put your sealer on them correctly they could be made to not leak. Heck you could of used just RTV silicone and it not leak so for sure this would work and was a genius solution.
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- Team Cub
- Posts: 7529
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Engine Work - Update
St. Patrick's Day turned out warmer than forecasted (high in mid-70s), which looks like a painting day, to me.
Engine is slowly progressing. Spent some time taping off areas, then decided to leave the well-adhered paint on and just scuff it up for primer. Using Dupli-Color High Engine Heat (500F) Primer.
I have two cans of VanSickle Intern'l Red that I could use, or some CNH Ironguard 2150. Haven't decided yet. After painting, will need to remove engine off stand and install oil pump. Ordered a new oil pump gasket from Steiners. That's a gasket that has specific thickness dimensions that I can't duplicate (0.006" thick). Actually for fun, I took two pieces of paper, used spray mount adhesive and arrived at the magical 0.006" thickness, but paper is not oil-resistant. So went with the safe route here by ordering a new one.
Engine is slowly progressing. Spent some time taping off areas, then decided to leave the well-adhered paint on and just scuff it up for primer. Using Dupli-Color High Engine Heat (500F) Primer.
I have two cans of VanSickle Intern'l Red that I could use, or some CNH Ironguard 2150. Haven't decided yet. After painting, will need to remove engine off stand and install oil pump. Ordered a new oil pump gasket from Steiners. That's a gasket that has specific thickness dimensions that I can't duplicate (0.006" thick). Actually for fun, I took two pieces of paper, used spray mount adhesive and arrived at the magical 0.006" thickness, but paper is not oil-resistant. So went with the safe route here by ordering a new one.
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- 10+ Years
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- Location: bullitt county, kentucky
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- 10+ Years
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- Zip Code: 49120
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Niles / Buchanan, Michigan
Re: Engine Work - Update


1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
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- Team Cub
- Posts: 7529
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Engine Work - Update
BIG day today. Felt good. Robyn and I drove over to Sedalia (1 hour drive) to attend the 1st Quarter IHCC Chapter One meeting and auction today. Great food, fellowship, and fun. Beautiful weather; 60s and clear, sunny skies. Saw two bald eagles on our trip. Fun.
Got home and ate, then decided to go with the #2150 CNH paint instead of the VanSickle. Had plenty of good temps, no wind, and sunlight left in the day to shoot the engine, crank pulley, and spark plug cable bracket. Was pleased with how it turned out. Total of 3 coats.
Got home and ate, then decided to go with the #2150 CNH paint instead of the VanSickle. Had plenty of good temps, no wind, and sunlight left in the day to shoot the engine, crank pulley, and spark plug cable bracket. Was pleased with how it turned out. Total of 3 coats.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 5660
- Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:40 pm
- Zip Code: 49120
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Niles / Buchanan, Michigan
Re: Engine Work - Update
I'm glad you had a good day today. The engine looks great and I'm sure it will run even better!!
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
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- Team Cub
- Posts: 7529
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Engine Work - Update
ricky racer wrote:I'm glad you had a good day today. The engine looks great and I'm sure it will run even better!!
I’m hoping so. Thanks!

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- Team Cub
- Posts: 7529
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Engine Work - Update
Got to work some more on the "forever" engine overhaul project yesterday and today.
Had to use the hammer of persuasion to flatten the top a little.
At this point -- and I know many, many of you have been there -- you say to yourself, "Self, the engine is pristine, newly painted IH 2150 red, but all the attachments to it are still from a paint job 13 years old and faded. What to do? How far should I go?" Can you relate?
Thus begins the stripping down and repainting of such things as...
...and the governor...
Made new gaskets for the water inlet and outlets. For those of you who have never done this, it's simple. Buy a roll of gasket material from your auto parts store and a hole punch set. Outline the part, mark the holes, and punch and cut. Often times, the old gasket is still good for a template.
Since the outlet water gasket has a single, large hole, I tapped it out with a ball peen hammer. First I punched the bolt holes and secured the gasket material by hand tightening the bolts. Then using the ball peen hammer, tapped out the hole.
Noticed there were a few minor pits in the outside of the water outlet connection. That's a good source for a coolant leak, so applied some JB Weld to the outside and will sand it down smooth.
Productive day. Glad to make some progress on this Cub.
Had to use the hammer of persuasion to flatten the top a little.
At this point -- and I know many, many of you have been there -- you say to yourself, "Self, the engine is pristine, newly painted IH 2150 red, but all the attachments to it are still from a paint job 13 years old and faded. What to do? How far should I go?" Can you relate?
Thus begins the stripping down and repainting of such things as...
...and the governor...
Made new gaskets for the water inlet and outlets. For those of you who have never done this, it's simple. Buy a roll of gasket material from your auto parts store and a hole punch set. Outline the part, mark the holes, and punch and cut. Often times, the old gasket is still good for a template.
Since the outlet water gasket has a single, large hole, I tapped it out with a ball peen hammer. First I punched the bolt holes and secured the gasket material by hand tightening the bolts. Then using the ball peen hammer, tapped out the hole.
Noticed there were a few minor pits in the outside of the water outlet connection. That's a good source for a coolant leak, so applied some JB Weld to the outside and will sand it down smooth.
Productive day. Glad to make some progress on this Cub.
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- 501 Club
- Posts: 900
- Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2019 5:14 pm
- Zip Code: 29848
- Tractors Owned: Yanmar YM2000
Yanmar YM186 (non running)
1952 Farmall Cub - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Greenwood County SC
Re: Engine Work - Update
Good work
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 5660
- Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:40 pm
- Zip Code: 49120
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Niles / Buchanan, Michigan
Re: Engine Work - Update
I'm glad to see you're still moving along with the engine rebuild. Thank you for the great play by play post covering it. We all get a chance to learn from you and enjoy your progress.
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
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- Team Cub
- Posts: 7529
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Engine Work - Update
Time for cleaning up the inside of the governor. It was gunkier than I thought. Overall, it performed well prior to disassembly.
That should take care of the governor.
That should take care of the governor.

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Several Brand X Green tractors that sound strange when they run.
1969 F-100 fully restored, 1969 F 100 original paint, 1973 F 100, 50 K original miles all original, 1978 F250 repainted, 1978 Bronco, 1967 Mustang, 1973 Mach ! Mustang.
Several single cylinder Honda motorcycles from the early 70's. Adding more junk all the time. - Location: Parsons, Kansas
Re: Engine Work - Update
Great work. I still have a lot to learn, and benefit from the play by play, and pictures that you guys post.
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- Team Cub
- Posts: 7529
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Engine Work - Update
Nothing like dragging out a project, huh? This 4th round of chemo gave me more not-so-good days than good ones. Had it on June 1st and just today am feeling energic enough to venture out into the barn--nevermind it was well over 90 degrees F with a heat index of 102. Oh well, beggars....
It was overcast, so thought, "This would be good to paint outside." Went slow and methodical, trying not to expel too much energy. Set up the sawhorses and plywood top. Transferred all the pieces/parts and wiped them down with denatured alcohol. Mixed my CaseIH 2150 enamel paint and got it into my HVLP sprayer. Had ALMOST finished the the first tack coat when I heard it...large drops hitting the barn roof. That roof amplifies the slightest sound. I desperately look at the table and think, "There's no way I'm going to be able to get that inside by myself." The sprinkle picks up while I run to the house and yell, "Robyn! I need help!"
That caused a panic in my lovely bride--she thought I was having some sort of MEDICAL emergency! After she came down to realize it was just rain on wet paint, her heart returned to a normal rhythm.
So, here's some shots of my progress after the transfer inside:
So if you're asking, yes, I continued to paint the 2nd and 3rd coats inside the barn. Never had an issue with the CaseIH paint (very forgiving). I just took a paper towel and dabbed off the rain drops and kept shooting paint. With the things I have on my plate in life...a little rain isn't a big deal.
Hopefully, next step is to remount the clutch, oil pump, etc. and get the engine back mounted to the torque tube. Then I can assemble the front axle/bolster and have a complete tractor again before winter snow flies. We'll see...

It was overcast, so thought, "This would be good to paint outside." Went slow and methodical, trying not to expel too much energy. Set up the sawhorses and plywood top. Transferred all the pieces/parts and wiped them down with denatured alcohol. Mixed my CaseIH 2150 enamel paint and got it into my HVLP sprayer. Had ALMOST finished the the first tack coat when I heard it...large drops hitting the barn roof. That roof amplifies the slightest sound. I desperately look at the table and think, "There's no way I'm going to be able to get that inside by myself." The sprinkle picks up while I run to the house and yell, "Robyn! I need help!"
That caused a panic in my lovely bride--she thought I was having some sort of MEDICAL emergency! After she came down to realize it was just rain on wet paint, her heart returned to a normal rhythm.

So, here's some shots of my progress after the transfer inside:
So if you're asking, yes, I continued to paint the 2nd and 3rd coats inside the barn. Never had an issue with the CaseIH paint (very forgiving). I just took a paper towel and dabbed off the rain drops and kept shooting paint. With the things I have on my plate in life...a little rain isn't a big deal.
Hopefully, next step is to remount the clutch, oil pump, etc. and get the engine back mounted to the torque tube. Then I can assemble the front axle/bolster and have a complete tractor again before winter snow flies. We'll see...

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- 10+ Years
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'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Chapel Hill
Re: Engine Work - Update
Looks like just enough rain fell to increase humidity to steaming! 

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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 5660
- Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:40 pm
- Zip Code: 49120
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Niles / Buchanan, Michigan
Re: Engine Work - Update
I'm glad to hear you were feeling up to doing some work outside. 

1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
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