Engine Work - Update

[Clemsonfor]

Yea this stuff is getting crazy! I against my better judgement ordered parts for my Yanmar to fix it and shipped them USPS instead of paying the $8 more for UPS shipping. I am now paying for it. My parts have been sitting at the FT Worth distribution center an hour and a half from their origin on their way to my house in SC! USPS is screwing me again. They seem to do it on almost every package these days. Priority mail no longer means priority it means throw it in a bin and maybe one day this month we will send it your way. Seems like every delivery has gone that way.

[Eugene]

I've got a John Deere 425 with a Kawasaki twin cylinder water cooled engine I need to rebuild for a friend. I'm afraid that I may have a hard time finding the parts I need to get-r-done.

Probably another topic. But, I have an older Kawasaki FD620D engine in a JD Gator. Lots of overhaul kits and parts are available.

Easy engine to work on.

[ricky racer]

I've got a John Deere 425 with a Kawasaki twin cylinder water cooled engine I need to rebuild for a friend. I'm afraid that I may have a hard time finding the parts I need to get-r-done.

Probably another topic. But, I have an older Kawasaki FD620D engine in a JD Gator. Lots of overhaul kits and parts are available.

Easy engine to work on.

I agree with the ease of working on this engine. I've rebuilt the engine in my own 425 as well as an FD590V which is almost the same engine except it has a vertical crank shaft instead of a horizontal crank. My main concern is the current supply chain issues we've had this year.

[Stanton]

Got my box of engine parts from Jensales yesterday and I delivered them to the machinist. He is planning on jet washing out the block and said it will be ready for reassembly when I pick it up. Need to order a gasket set. Seems like Fel Pro #FS 7560S is unavailable in most places. The Victor #FS1879X is available via ebay and a partial (valve grind kit) set is available via TM Tractor. If I went with TM, I'd have to cut out the other gaskets, except for the oil pump gasket--probably order that one.

We'll see. Will keep you posted on what's next.

[Mht]

If you have a NAPA auto parts store near you they should be able to get the fel-pro gasket set. My local store in NC had no problem getting it for me along with main and rod bearings and also a valve rebuild kit with valves, springs, and guides

[tst]

Felpro has stopped making the complete gasket set, buy the victor set

[Stanton]

Picked up the engine yesterday; looks good. Mic'd and polished the crankshaft, bored and honed the cylinders, cleaned the case, resurfaced the head, and touched up the valves/seats.

Am planning to start on page 30 of the Blue Ribbon Service GSS-1007 Engine manual and follow directions for reassembly. Any reason why I should deviate or additional info I need to know before I begin?

I'll post pics as I go...

[tst]

plastic gauge the bearing clearance on reassembly , use the green one, 3 piece oil rings run .020-.035 end gap, stager the oil rings and inch or so apart

Thanks, Tim. The machine shop also advised to plasti-gage the bearing, just to be sure.

Appreciate the input.

[Bill V in Md]

You may know this, but I will mention it anyway; when reassembling the crankshaft bearings and rod bearings, use a bearing assembly lube. This stuff is thicker than regular engine oil and will stay in place longer. This is helpful, since it may be several days (or weeks) until you start the engine for the first time. I used Clevite Bearing Guard, but I am sure there are other acceptable brands.

[Eugene]

When reassembling the crankshaft bearings and rod bearings, use a bearing assembly lube. This stuff is thicker than regular engine oil and will stay in place longer. This is helpful, since it may be several days (or weeks) until you start the engine for the first time. I used Clevite Bearing Guard, but I am sure there are other acceptable brands.

80/90 wt gear lub will also work. It will stay put until you start the engine.

[Stanton]

You may know this, but I will mention it anyway; when reassembling the crankshaft bearings and rod bearings, use a bearing assembly lube. This stuff is thicker than regular engine oil and will stay in place longer. This is helpful, since it may be several days (or weeks) until you start the engine for the first time. I used Clevite Bearing Guard, but I am sure there are other acceptable brands.

80/90 wt gear lub will also work. It will stay put until you start the engine.

Thanks, guys. I asked the machinist yesterday about using the engine oil (Rotella 15W-40) when assembling, and he too recommended an assembly lube. He also gave me a zinc additive to help lube the cam lobes, etc.

[ricky racer]

I agree with all above. Good advice!

[Gary S.]

Stanton are you reusing your old cam? Are even new ones available along with lifters?

[Glen]

Hi,
Before you put the front cover on the engine, check to see if the oil passage plug is there, it is behind where the camshaft gear would be.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor showing it, it is to the upper left of the camshaft hole, left in the picture.

There are other plugs on the engine, one is in the area with the valve springs.

[tst]

also check all oil feed holes for debris, they can hide the metal from machining in them