inserts for loop on rear rims

[Don McCombs]

I don't think my tractor has inserts, or even a place for them. My rims are attached with carriage bolts (1/2" as I recall).

Then, you likely have the new style aftermarket rims like these…
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/wh/724fp.htm

[Crimson Tim]

If you are considering any repair option including a welding process, be aware that that the rims were originally galvanized to create that silver finish. It’s not clear how much of that original finish is left, but welding on galvanized steel releases extraordinarily toxic fumes.
I am often looking for excuses to practice my feeble welding skills, but in this case, I wouldn’t take a chance. Stick with mechanical fasteners. If you replace the broken piece, drill out the rivets and replace with same.

[MiCarl]

I don't think my tractor has inserts, or even a place for them. My rims are attached with carriage bolts (1/2" as I recall).

Then, you likely have the new style aftermarket rims like these…
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/wh/724fp.htm

I replaced one of the rims with an aftermarket because the tractor came with an A rim on one side. Just looked and the rims appear identical so I think the other one probably was replaced by someone else.

Is there any reason the OP couldn't just use carriage bolts in the originals rather than messing with putting in the insert?

[Barnyard]

Is there any reason the OP couldn't just use carriage bolts in the originals rather than messing with putting in the insert?

The old style loop has a 3/4" inch opening for the bolt had. The new style loop takes a half inch carriage bolt which has a 1/2" square under the head. It would not grip in an old style loop and would just spin when you try to tighten it.

[inairam]

I finally got this repair done. I took the pieces to work and our machinist make a copy slightly oversized for me. I filed and sanded it and ground off the inside tab ( inside of the rim near the centers) I hand-fitted it and welded it through the slot in the loop that the tab was supposed to be in and grounded the weld flush to the loop. I was able to do it with the rubber on. Saved an early-style rim.

[Jim Becker]

. . . I was able to do it with the rubber on. . . .

This is not a safe thing to do. The tire can explode, it may happen almost immediately or take a day or so.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/weldin ... g.1161212/

[Don McCombs]

I’m convinced!

[inairam]

the heat would have to go through the loop into the rivets and would melt the inner tube long before it gives it enough heat to explode. It was just a few tacks to attach the one end to the loop. It was a very low risk.

I did not have 2 Goodyears but I did have two firestone turf tires so it went to the tire shop anyway and got a new inner tube and the firestone mounted.

[Slim140]

. . . I was able to do it with the rubber on. . . .

This is not a safe thing to do. The tire can explode, it may happen almost immediately or take a day or so.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/weldin ... g.1161212/

Wish I would have known about this about 20 years ago. A farmer near by had me weld some spin out bars that were cracked on a Ford 7610 rim while on the tractor

Wonder if it matters if they're filled with liquid?

[Don McCombs]

I would think removing the valve stem and cap would reduce the risk.

[Jim Becker]

I would think removing the valve stem and cap would reduce the risk.

Maybe. But did you note how fast the pressure came up at the end? I don't think an open valve stem would keep up. Bottom line, isn't worth the risk.

[Don McCombs]

Agreed.