Tie rod adjustment questions

[Binky Tremain]

Here’s what I’m seeing:

The adjustable portion of my tie rods shows a larger threaded gap on the right side, when compared to the left.

Right tire leaves a continuous mark when moving down driveway.

Tie rod on right side isn’t perfectly straight. It’s very minor, but it is bent.


Should I adjust the tie rods so the gaps are the same, and then take measurements for toe in adjustments?

Is the right wheel towed out and dragging?

Does the bent rod need to be replaced?

Thanks!

[Peter Person]

Tie rods can usually be straightened using a press. I did them today on my sons’ loboy at Cecil’s CubFest Northeast.
If they are bent beyond repair, Tim (tst) makes them.

[Glen]

Hi,
Here is some info about setting and adjusting the steering, if you need it.
You can check and see if everything is set in the right positions.

Usually both sides of the adjustable axle are adjusted to the same number of holes out of the center tube.

The tie rods telescope too, like the axle.
Turn the steering wheel so the arm in the center is pointing straight ahead, like in the 1st pic at the bottom of this post.
When it is straight ahead, you can see where the wheels are pointing.

There are 5 notches in the tie rod rods, like there are 5 holes for the pins on the axle extensions.
The bolts in the tie rod clamps go through the notches in the tie rod rods.

The tie rod settings have to match the axle settings, so the steering works right, and the front wheels point straight ahead.

Sometimes the tie rods are rusted and hard to change the length of, or they won't move.

The 2nd pic at the bottom, from TM Tractor, is of the adjustable tie rod, showing the 5 notches in the rod.
If 1 front wheel is pointed to the side, instead of straight ahead, 1 tie rod might be set in the wrong position, I would look closely and see if is set right.

The 3rd pic at the bottom, from TM Tractor, shows the steering arms a 1948 Cub would originally have.
They use setscrews to hold them to the spindle shafts. The setscrews and the tapered holes they go in, in the shafts, can wear with use.
The arms can be loose on the shafts, and there can be looseness in the steering there.
Loosen the lock nuts, and tighten the setscrews, if the arms are loose on the shafts.

After you set the tie rods to the right lengths, or they match the width of the axle, the front wheel toe in needs checking.
The Cub owner's manual tells how to do that.

Below is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual, showing how to adjust the front axle, and toe in.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-46.jpg

If you change the adjustment of the screw in part at D in the above pic, to adjust the toe in, or other reason, do not turn them in too tight. The balls on the steering arms usually wear more in the straight ahead position, so if you tighten the adjustment so there is no play, the steering may bind when you turn to the right or left. It can lock the steering so it won't turn fully both ways.

I jack up the front at the center, so the front tires are barely off the ground, then you can turn the steering wheel freely from side to side, then you can adjust them so the steering turns freely.
The joints may be a little loose in the straight ahead position, but that is how they are, if they are worn.

[Crimson Tim]

Sometimes the steering arms as shown in Glen’s last picture get bent, too. Viewed from directly above, each arm should look like a straight line.

[Binky Tremain]

Thanks everyone. The details and photos help more than you can imagine. I enjoy working on her immensely, but my mechanical knowledge/skills are limited.

I’ve also found the left tie rod has a lot of play, while the right holds firm. I measured as described for the toe in, and have a difference of 1.25” between first and second measurements.

[Gary Dotson]

Those early, set screw, steering arms are notorious for working loose and / or shearing the tip off the set screw (set bolt, in this case). Check that area carefully. Your toe measurement means nothing until you correct the play in the steering but 1.25” is a lot. The outer end of the tie rod is adjustable, if that is the source of the play.

[Binky Tremain]

I recently replaced both set screws. The right side screw was loose and the tip was deformed, but not broken.

Right tire actually leaves a continuous mark in my driveway, like a skid mark.

[Glen]

Hi,
You didn't say if the front axle is set all the way in, to the narrowest position, or is wider.
It's possible that 1 side of the axle is set wider than the other side.

Pictures would be helpful, of the 1 foot of each end of the axle, taken from above, looking down, with the tie rods in the pics.
If the axle is widened, it sounds like one tie rod is set too narrow, at the clamp where the bolt with the nut is. I don't know without seeing it.
The bolt has to go through 1 of the 5 notches in the rod, shown in the 2nd pic in my post above.

You could measure the total lengths of the tie rods.

Below are pics from TM Tractor showing the adjustable front axle tubes.
The 2nd pic shows the 5 holes, the left side of the pic is the outer end of the axle.

[Binky Tremain]

Sorry…can’t seem to get my pictures to download to this site.

[Binky Tremain]

Glen…I suddenly get it! Thank you!!!

[Glen]

Hi,
If your pictures are too big for the website to post, you need to resize them, and make them smaller.

I hope you are making progress with the Cub.