I bought this cub in 1996. When I bought it it had a lower engine knock. I had the crank turned and installed new rod and main bearings. I put a new set of rings in it also. Now 25 years later it smokes constantly but not heavy. It also has blow by out the dip stick but not heavy. It uses oil but not a lot. It did not happen all of a sudden, just more noticeable over the years. I thought it would be good winter project. It was our primary mower for about eight years mowing 3.5 acres. Now I only use it for pond banks and road side. It has been driven in a couple of parades and I do drive it to the neighbors once in a while about 2 miles one way. I am 98.6% sure I am going to go with new pistons and rings. It could use some tinkering in other areas.
Compression readings
Cyl Dry / Wet
1 105 / 120
2 100 / 118
3 105 / 118
4 110 / 118
Spark plugs
I know this will get a wide range of answers but...............
From compression readings and spark plug color what would you do ?
Thanks, Rodney
Before I pull the head.
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Before I pull the head.
USAF 1976 - 1996
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Re: Before I pull the head.
Photo of spark plugs, a bit hard to see. Really didn't look bad. Dry cmpression is pretty good. Wet, very good.
Sea Form and continue to operate the tractor. I wouldn't overhaul the engine, just not yet. Maybe in another 10 or 15 years.
Operate the tractor more.
Just my opinion.
Sea Form and continue to operate the tractor. I wouldn't overhaul the engine, just not yet. Maybe in another 10 or 15 years.
Operate the tractor more.
Just my opinion.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Before I pull the head.
agree with Eugene, make sure of valve clearance, timing and point gap, then leave it alone,
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Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
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Re: Before I pull the head.
I think to do a good compression test you need to do a valve adjustment first and then do a compression test. Repost numbers after you adjust the valves and run some seafoam.
I agree with Eugene and Tim - it does not need the time or money spent on the engine at the moment
I agree with Eugene and Tim - it does not need the time or money spent on the engine at the moment
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 502
- Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 6:06 pm
- Zip Code: 62995
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall Cub
1950 John Deere A
1950 Case VAI
1949 Farmall Cub
1944 Farmall H
1943 Farmall H
1940 Farmall H
1962 Massey Ferguson 65 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Southern Illinois
Re: Before I pull the head.
Valve adjustment was done in spring of this year and seafoam gets added to fuel occasionally. I will leave engine the way it is except new spark plugs. I have to do some carb, electrical, clutch and trans work so maybe I will have enough money left in the tractor budget to buy another one.
Thanks, Rodney
Thanks, Rodney
USAF 1976 - 1996
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Re: Before I pull the head.
Rodney51Cub wrote:.....so maybe I will have enough money left in the tractor budget to buy another one.
Thanks, Rodney
That's ALWAYS a good goal!!

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Re: Before I pull the head.
I nice fresh tight motor is around 140-150 lbs of compression so those are not bad #s for an old one
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1950 John Deere A
1950 Case VAI
1949 Farmall Cub
1944 Farmall H
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1940 Farmall H
1962 Massey Ferguson 65 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Southern Illinois
Re: Before I pull the head.
After deciding to leave the engine alone, other problems showed up.
I changed the oil in the finals and found metal particles in the left final. All new bearing, seals and shims, that is done.
Repaired choke linkage on carb.
Replaced toggle ignition to the oem style push pull switch.
Flushed radiator.
While out on a test drive it started missing and then died. Got it restarted and back to the barn and it died again.
Pushed it in the barn and called it a day.
Replaced the points because they were not hitting square and worn. That did not fix it.
It has new plugs so I tried a different rotor, condenser and cap. That did not fix it.
Tried a new coil. It fired right up and runs like it should.
Now I can start the engine work on my 43 H.
The coil was 24 years old so I think I got my moneys worth. Hope this one lasts 20 years.

I changed the oil in the finals and found metal particles in the left final. All new bearing, seals and shims, that is done.

Repaired choke linkage on carb.

Replaced toggle ignition to the oem style push pull switch.

Flushed radiator.

While out on a test drive it started missing and then died. Got it restarted and back to the barn and it died again.

Pushed it in the barn and called it a day.

Replaced the points because they were not hitting square and worn. That did not fix it.

It has new plugs so I tried a different rotor, condenser and cap. That did not fix it.

Tried a new coil. It fired right up and runs like it should.

Now I can start the engine work on my 43 H.

The coil was 24 years old so I think I got my moneys worth. Hope this one lasts 20 years.

USAF 1976 - 1996
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