cub j4 magneto

[waynemo]

I may have bitten off more than I can chew! My mag coil is burnt wrinkled and smells. I got it off and disassembled the top and the points look like new. The coil has a .750 square mounting bar passing through and it is tight with melted black tar.
The coil wire terminal will not pass through the hole leading in to points. Is there a rubber seal that has to be removed first?Or just cut the terminal off and reattach? Don't see the factory doing this.
Does the square mounting bar come with a new coil? Or can it just be scraped clean of the tar and reused?
There is a brass nugget on the coil wire surface that contacts the high voltage outlet cable. The Brillman j4 coil does not show that brass nugget. Is it on stheBraillman coil? Don't ;see how the coil would work wirthout it! They show a lmetal clip in the area of the square mount that is not on mine also unless I just did not see it.
Are the Brillman coils a good thing for me? Have others here tried them?

[Bill V in Md]

The square mounting bar must be removed from the old coil and re-used with the new coil. New coils do not come with this bar. It should slide out, but in your case it may take some extra persuasion.
The coil should have a small rounded nub on the exterior of the coil body that makes the high voltage connection to the cover. I believe you will find the Brillman J4 magneto has this nub.
The coil wire does slide through the magneto housing, but you will need to remove the rubber/plastic insulator seal in the housing to push it through.
The new coil should also have a metal "U" shaped clip on the end that is used to secure the coil and square bar. See attached photos.
I have purchased a J-4 magneto coil from Brillman, and had no problems. The coil has been in service for about four years.

[Barnyard]

Keep that coil mounting bar. They can be hard to find.

[waynemo]

Thanks for the reply and photo. I guess there is a soft seal where the internal coil wire passes through toward the points that I did not see.
Still do not see how the kill wire can go through the mag body toward the points without grounding. There is a insulating piece that separates the interior wires but what about the kill stud touching the casting and grounding where it passes through ? I must be missing something ?

[waynemo]

I do not see how to reply to members and do not know if this will reach replies.
I did not look carefully at the insulator where the kill stud goes through.
I wonder how hard it will be to remove the melted coil tar to get the square bar out. How much is the clearance between the coil inside and the bar. Any tips?????

[Jim Becker]

The stud:
I'm working from memory here as I don't have one handy to look at. So, I may not get it quite right. To complicate things, I believe there were two versions. The stud is installed from the inside, with the short end in. There is a squarish insulator that goes inside by putting it on the long end of the stud before it is installed. The squarish part fits into the hole to insulate the stud from the housing. There is an insulating washer that goes over the stud from the outside to insulate the nut from the housing. The insulated washer is followed by a hex nut that holds it all snug in the housing. The outside nut is followed by the grounding wire and another nut. Inside, the points spring is held by another nut. There should be a lock washer under each nut. As I recall the early version, the squarish part and the stud were one piece. There may have been a special clip at the location the points spring attached.

The coil core:
Normally they can be pushed out. If stuck badly, some people have resorted to using a press. Do not try to drive it out with a hammer. The cores are more fragile than may be obvious. If it won't push out with reasonable force, you may need to cut the coil off. Others have had to do that. One cut parallel to the core should loosen it up enough to get the core out. You may not even have to cut clear to the core. Again, be careful not to damage the core with whatever you use to cut it. I'm not sure what solvent, if any, will work to clean up the glop on the core. I'd try chipping and scraping off as much as possible before using a solvent.

[Stanton]

By the way, welcome to the Forum!

Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:

• Welcome Wagon
• How to Upload Pictures to a Post
• Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
• Using the Forum

Now that you’ve logged your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the PDF Manuals on this site. There’s a few ways to do that:

• From a desktop or laptop, go to "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals".
• You can also go to “Cub Info” in the upper toolbar, then hit “Rudi’s Manuals”. From there, you can access a variety of information.
• If you're using a phone, go to the "Links Directory" (second category down the main page). Once in "Links Directory" , scroll down to the second section "Tractor Parts & Manuals" and you'll find them there.

You'll be able to download an Owner's Manual (very strongly recommended) and any service manuals that interest you. Implement Manuals are also available.

There are a lot of good threads dealing with Cub repair and maintenance in the How To Forum. Located here: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=11

We’d encourage you to take the Safety Test located in the Safety Forum: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68084

Take some pictures of your tractor and post them, we’d like to see them. Or take some pics of your current J4 Mag.

Remember:

• Pictures are limited to 500 KB file size. Use an image reducer app or program to downsize pics.
• When you have a specific question, start a new thread in the appropriate sub-forum.
• Before posting, use the Preview button before hitting Submit--it'll show you exactly what your post will look like, including pictures.
• When adding your comments to a thread, be sure to look at the date of the last poster. If it’s more than a 6 months old, the posters are probably not going to see it. Consider starting a new thread.

Glad you joined us.

[Bill V in Md]

Thanks for the reply and photo. I guess there is a soft seal where the internal coil wire passes through toward the points that I did not see.
Still do not see how the kill wire can go through the mag body toward the points without grounding. There is a insulating piece that separates the interior wires but what about the kill stud touching the casting and grounding where it passes through ? I must be missing something ?

See below photos to demonstrate what Jim Becker is describing. The last photo shows the soft seal (that you refer to} with the coil wire passing through it.

[inairam]

If you decide to get help -

I have sent my mags to this guy http://www.rebuiltmags.com/index.php and have been very happy.

and member LT Mike has used this guy

ames Griswold
Specializing in tractor magnetos.
“Magneto Repairs Only”
Email; Magrus_08@yahoo.com
1882 Preble Rd
Preble NY 13141
Cell 607-423-6244

[waynemo]

Keep that coil mounting bar. They can be hard to find.

I will try to get it out but I know it will be hard to do. I plan to hacksaw thru the coil wires.

[waynemo]

Thanks for the reply and photo. I guess there is a soft seal where the internal coil wire passes through toward the points that I did not see.
Still do not see how the kill wire can go through the mag body toward the points without grounding. There is a insulating piece that separates the interior wires but what about the kill stud touching the casting and grounding where it passes through ? I must be missing something ?

See below photos to demonstrate what Jim Becker is describing. The last photo shows the soft seal (that you refer to} with the coil wire passing through it.
IMG_2443.jpgIMG_2444.jpgIMG_2442.jpg

I cannot tell much on the last photo but I know what needs to be done. Does the seal go in from inside or outside? It is great to be able to find expert help like yourself! Wish you were in Union, Mo !!!!!!!!!!

[Bill V in Md]

Wayne,
I do not remember which direction the soft seal is removed, but looking at that last photo, I believe it comes out from the coil side of the magneto housing.

[waynemo]

Wayne,
I do not remember which direction the soft seal is removed, but looking at that last photo, I believe it comes out from the coil side of the magneto housing.

Thanks for the reply and photo. I guess there is a soft seal where the internal coil wire passes through toward the points that I did not see.
Still do not see how the kill wire can go through the mag body toward the points without grounding. There is a insulating piece that separates the interior wires but what about the kill stud touching the casting and grounding where it passes through ? I must be missing something ?

See below photos to demonstrate what Jim Becker is describing. The last photo shows the soft seal (that you refer to} with the coil wire passing through it.
IMG_2443.jpgIMG_2444.jpgIMG_2442.jpg

Good news, I got the square bar out and my insulator for the kill switch looks good. I need to time the mag gears. The small one has a mark on it and the large one has a line on the plastic rotor.

I cannot tell much on the last photo but I know what needs to be done. Does the seal go in from inside or outside? It is great to be able to find expert help like yourself! Wish you were in Union, Mo !!!!!!!!!!

The stud:
I'm working from memory here as I don't have one handy to look at. So, I may not get it quite right. To complicate things, I believe there were two versions. The stud is installed from the inside, with the short end in. There is a squarish insulator that goes inside by putting it on the long end of the stud before it is installed. The squarish part fits into the hole to insulate the stud from the housing. There is an insulating washer that goes over the stud from the outside to insulate the nut from the housing. The insulated washer is followed by a hex nut that holds it all snug in the housing. The outside nut is followed by the grounding wire and another nut. Inside, the points spring is held by another nut. There should be a lock washer under each nut. As I recall the early version, the squarish part and the stud were one piece. There may have been a special clip at the location the points spring attached.

The coil core:
Normally they can be pushed out. If stuck badly, some people have resorted to using a press. Do not try to drive it out with a hammer. The cores are more fragile than may be obvious. If it won't push out with reasonable force, you may need to cut the coil off. Others have had to do that. One cut parallel to the core should loosen it up enough to get the core out. You may not even have to cut clear to the core. Again, be careful not to damage the core with whatever you use to cut it. I'm not sure what solvent, if any, will work to clean up the glop on the core. I'd try chipping and scraping off as much as possible before using a solvent.

[waynemo]

I do not see how to post a reply. I click on where it says post but not clear which post and where to write the reply. Do you just go back to the start of the thread and use the quote marks? I can never get a clear path to send a reply and who it is I am trying to reply.
Somehow I got this screen and will try to use it.

[waynemo]

By the way, welcome to the Forum!

Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:

• Welcome Wagon
• How to Upload Pictures to a Post
• Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
• Using the Forum

Now that you’ve logged your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the PDF Manuals on this site. There’s a few ways to do that:

• From a desktop or laptop, go to "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals".
• You can also go to “Cub Info” in the upper toolbar, then hit “Rudi’s Manuals”. From there, you can access a variety of information.
• If you're using a phone, go to the "Links Directory" (second category down the main page). Once in "Links Directory" , scroll down to the second section "Tractor Parts & Manuals" and you'll find them there.

You'll be able to download an Owner's Manual (very strongly recommended) and any service manuals that interest you. Implement Manuals are also available.

There are a lot of good threads dealing with Cub repair and maintenance in the How To Forum. Located here: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=11

We’d encourage you to take the Safety Test located in the Safety Forum: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68084

Take some pictures of your tractor and post them, we’d like to see them. Or take some pics of your current J4 Mag.

Remember:

• Pictures are limited to 500 KB file size. Use an image reducer app or program to downsize pics.
• When you have a specific question, start a new thread in the appropriate sub-forum.
• Before posting, use the Preview button before hitting Submit--it'll show you exactly what your post will look like, including pictures.
• When adding your comments to a thread, be sure to look at the date of the last poster. If it’s more than a 6 months old, the posters are probably not going to see it. Consider starting a new thread.

Glad you joined us.
Cannnot find how ;to reply........I start byaa click on farmall cub.....then select my topic.....cub j4 magneto.......then I click on reply and nothing happens except junk about icons .......do notr see how to reply. I have spent an hour trying various places to start my reply.