frame to replace engine in tractor

[inairam]

This may sound strange but has anyone designed / fabed a steel frame to replace the engine in a cub?

Say you pulled the engine for rebuild but wanted to keep the tractor as rolling chassis to move the tractor around.

[indy61]

You could probably make a brace for each side out of wood. Just measure the length and bolt pattern.

[Bob McCarty]

If your splitting stand is on wheels, you can roll the back half with it. The front end can easily be maneuvered with the steering wheel, you just have to be careful when you set it down.

[ricky racer]

There are lots of ideas on how to do it out there. Probably the most simple and cost effective is the bottom picture using a trailer tongue jack.

[muleboss]

To me what your original question is asking is just take some heavy angle iron cut to about same length as engine and weld some bolts on the ends. Put one on each side and bolt it back together with bolts in bell housing and the front bolster holes, Should be easy to do.
I took it you wanted it to be in one piece , not 2.

[Gary Dotson]

I think your idea has merit! I think an arm load of angle and you could whip something up pretty easy. It would even give you the option to load it onto a trailer to haul it from here to there. Show us what you build!

[inairam]

I am not looking for a way to split the tractor. I can do that easily enough.

I am thinking of something like frame rails like what IH used on the larger tractors. This is for an IH300.

[Bill Hudson]

Just a thought, to me shorter would be better. Shorter wheel base takes up less floor space and since your goal was "to keep the tractor as rolling chassis to move the tractor around," it makes for a smaller turning radius.

Bill

[inairam]

Just a thought, to me shorter would be better. Shorter wheel base takes up less floor space and since your goal was "to keep the tractor as rolling chassis to move the tractor around," it makes for a smaller turning radius.

Bill

I do not have any floor space to speak of the barn is like 15 x 20 with 1/3 of that the "service bay". I have to get it outside the barn so it has to be strong enough to take being on dirt /uneven ground, being towed, and the steering needs to still work. I need to make it engine size for my plan to work.

[Bill Hudson]

I do not have any floor space to speak of the bar is like 15 x 20 with 1/3 of that the "service bay". I have to get it outside the barn so it has to be strong enough to take being on dirt /uneven ground, being towed, and the steering needs to still work. I need to make it engine size for my plan to work.

That makes perfect sense.

Bill

[outdoors4evr]

So you need a scrapped block?

[Rodney51Cub]

I am thinking of something like frame rails like what IH used on the larger tractors.

That would be the ideal thing to use. You would just have to drill and weld the proper end plates.
Or you could use some C channel or square tubing with the proper end plates.

[Lt.Mike]

I’d think a simple box structure made from 2” angle iron would be easy enough to fabricate and pretty cheap too.

[Dale Finch]

I agree with outdoors4evr...get a scrap engine block. Last week I grabbed the block that I had taken to the machine shop, still a naked block, and bolted it back in place (with 4 bolts in front & rear), so I could bring the tractor home.