1952 Cub arrives in new home.

[Workinprogress]

Yep access to all the bolts.

[Workinprogress]

Successful afternoon!

Front axle blocked with oak wedges.

Tractor split and clutch, pressure plate and flywheel removed.

So definitely rear main seal leaking. No groves or wear on the crankshaft end.

Parts list started.

The clutch, pressure plate and flywheel and throw out bearing look ok. I have to check specs on clutch plate to see how far along things are. I was hoping it was clearly bad so I would just replace everything. Now I have to make some decisions.

[Workinprogress]

Clutch measures 0.265

[Don McCombs]

You didn't show a photo of the TOB. But I would err on the side of replacing it, instead of trying to make do. You don't want to be splitting again in six months.

[Workinprogress]

Photos of TOB

[Glen]

Hi,
Nice to have pics of the parts.
The graphite material sticks out of a new throwout bearing 5/16". They can wear down from use.
You could measure yours and see how much it is worn.

Below is info about the clutch, if you need it.

Some people on here prefer the old original IH clutch pressure plate to the new imported ones.
They like the quality better.

I remember someone on here replaced the clutch, and used it for a short time, and it quit working right. He looked in the hand hole, under the clutch, and 1 finger had bent down, so the clutch wouldn't release right.
He had to split the Cub, and replace the pressure plate again.

They say on here that the clutch parts TM Tractor at the bottom of the page sells are good quality.

1 of the experts on here has said that the pilot bushing, in the end of the crankshaft, doesn't need replacing if it is still good.
Measure it's ID with a dial caliper and if it looks good, it can be used again.

If you replace the pilot bushing, after putting it in the crankshaft hole, be sure to measure it's ID with a dial caliper before putting the pressure plate on the flywheel.
If the clearance is too small, the bushing needs reaming to make it bigger.

The pilot bushing ID can shrink after driving it in the hole. Then if the bushing ID is too small, and you put the Cub together, the clutch shaft won't stop turning when you push the clutch pedal down.
Then the gears grind when trying to shift them.

Below is a page from the Cub service manual, showing the running clearance for the pilot bushing, at Spline and clutch shaft.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 005-02.jpg

If the bushing is too small, it needs reaming.

The graphite material sticks out of a new throwout bearing 5/16", they can wear down with use, and need replacing.
They have said on here to soak a new throwout bearing in light motor oil for a day or more before putting it in.
Also they have said on here, grease the throwout bearing grease fitting with cheap grease, so the oil in the grease absorbs into the graphite material.
The original bearings had a small hole at the top of them for excess grease to come out.
Grease it until grease comes out the hole, if the new bearing has the hole.

Be sure the throwout bearing holder is straight, and check it's holes, and the pin at the top of the holder for wear.
The holder should not move up and down, or side to side, so the throwout bearing is centered on the 3 pressure plate fingers.
Bend the upper part of the holder if needed, so it is out almost against the casting, and has very little side to side movement. The bearing has to be centered side to side with the 3 fingers.
TM Tractor, at the bottom of the page, has a new holder and pin, if you need them.
Their holder is for Cubs serial number 32229 and above.

The holder has to hold the throwout bearing snugly, so the top of the bearing doesn't flop down and rub on the fingers.

Turn the clutch shaft when the Cub is split and be sure it turns straight, and it's not bent.

The hub on the clutch disc sticks out farther on one side than the other. The side that sticks out farther goes to the rear.
I would clean the rust off the splines on the shaft where the clutch disc goes, they look rusty. Put on a very thin layer of grease on them. You don't want grease thrown off the shaft onto the disc lining.

Tighten the 6 pressure plate bolts that hold it on the flywheel evenly, it is loading the springs as you tighten the bolts.

The pressure plate fingers height should be 1 3/16" - 1 1/4", they recommend on here.
The fingers need to be the same height to form a flat surface for the throwout bearing to push on.
The finger height is set after the clutch is fully assembled on the flywheel.
Tighten the nuts on the finger height adjustments tight when done adjusting them, so they don't come loose.

I would put a light layer of grease in the pilot bushing, and on the end of the clutch shaft that goes in the bushing, when you put the Cub together.

If the rear crankshaft seal leaks any, when the Cub is split is a good time to replace it.
You have to remove the flywheel to replace it.
They have said on here that the oil seal sold nowadays doesn't fit well in the original seal holders, on older Cubs.
The seal is too loose in the holder.
Member tst machines used holders and puts in a slightly bigger OD oil seal in them, so the seal fits tight in the holder.
You can write him a PM, if you want info about it.
He may have an ad for them in The Vine section on here.

TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has new parts for Cubs.

When you have it together again, a 1952 Cub should have 1" of clutch pedal free play, at the top of it's travel, measured at the surface where you put your foot.

Below is a page from the 1955 Cub operator's manual, showing adjusting the clutch pedal free play.
There is a pic of the clutch on the page also.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-45.jpg

All 3 pedals should have return springs under the platform, to hold the pedals up against the platform.
If the clutch pedal had no return spring, it would always go ahead, and the throwout bearing would touch on the pressure plate fingers.
The clutch pedal should move freely at it's base, sometimes the clutch pedal base gets tight from no lube. Work penetrating oil, or oil into the base if it hasn't been oiled lately.
If the pedal is free at the base, it usually pulls out of the clutch housing about 1/4", that helps to get oil into the base. There is a length the base goes into the housing to work oil into.

Below is a pic of a pressure plate, showing where to measure the finger height to, the pressure plate has to be assembled on the flywheel, not off, like the pic is.

The 2nd pic from TM Tractor shows the clutch pedal base. 2/3 of the shiny area at the right makes contact in the hole made in the clutch housing.
The 1/3 on the left of the pic sticks through the hole.
Push the pedal base back into the housing when done oiling it.
Good luck.

[Workinprogress]

I carefully examined the clutch disk this morning. Seems one side is worn more than the other. So while it is just a little over 1/4 thick the one side is almost level with the rivet heads. So it definitely needs to be replaced.

I reached out to TST to get my seal retainer upgraded.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new clutch disc, you can look at the pics.
You can see the lining thickness in the bottom pic, it isn't much above the rivet heads.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/521fp.htm

You can use fine sandpaper and smooth the flywheel where the disc runs, and the pressure plate surface, if you are going to use the same pressure plate.

[Workinprogress]

I agree there is not much space between the rivet head and the clutch material in the TM image. I measured the thickness from the surface of the clutch to to the rivet head and get 0.025 inch.

[Workinprogress]

Spent some time last night looking at the TOB. Seemed the setup (TOB and brackets) had close to 1/4” side to side movements. Also notice the TOB was very tight in the metal brackets. It was very tuff to tip it up or down.

So I removed the TOB and the mounting brackets. Seems the brackets are twisted and bent slightly. Bottom right edge of bracket appears to have been impacted at one time.

Bracket holes and upper pin also showed wear. The interesting part was the TOB tabs were also worn.

Needless to say more parts added to my shopping list

[Gary Dotson]

I had one, a couple years ago, that the mounting pins on the throw out bearing were worn almost all the way through. The hanger was also terribly worn, I replaced bearing, hanger and hanger pivot pin.

[Workinprogress]

Moving Forward!

Retainer mailed to TST. First order placed with TMtractor. Likely many more to come!

With rear main seal leaking so bad it is tough to identify source of other leaks. Oil pan was really wet so decided to remove oil pan and replace gasket while doing rear main seal. Surprised how little sludge was in the oil pan.

Removed touch control hydraulics box from tractor as it needs some seals work.

[Workinprogress]

Two thumbs up to TM Tractor parts! Placed order on Friday morning. Parts arrived today!

[Barnyard]

Two thumbs up to TM Tractor parts! Placed order on Friday morning. Parts arrived today!

Curious who the shipper was.

[Workinprogress]

USPS

To be clear I am in Vermont so Maine isn’t that far. Key point was they got the order right of the door on Friday.

I also emailed them some questions over the weekend and they responded quickly.