1952 Cub arrives in new home.

[Workinprogress]

Little steps forward.

Engine breather tube cleaned, flywheel resurfaced, updated retainer on way from tst. Retainer and oil pan gaskets arrived. Another parts order likely tomorrow for clutch parts.

Been soaking some nuts & bolts with pb blaster so I can remove floor. With tractor split I wanted to pull torque tube to closely examine transmission seals.

While walking around tractor I keep noticing little things. Exhaust pipe bent slightly.

[Workinprogress]

Progress has been slow. Just as part orders arrived caught covid. Overall not bad symptoms just tough to work on tractor when you are quarantined from your family.

Installed rear main seal retainer. Thanks tst!

Installed resurfaced flywheel.

Installed New clutch friction plate and pressure plate from TM.

Still need to set finger height. Seems to be going guidance to set it to 1 1/8” or 1 1/4”?

Then install oil pan. Once pan done I will move back to removal of floor pan. After a week battling the brake pedal locking bolt finally got it removed. Lots of soaking in pb blaster and finally put the heat to it. Brake pedal now spins on shaft so ready to work on removal.

[Gary Dotson]

I used to set the fingers to 1 1/4”, but usually had very little thread remaining, for the lock nuts. I revised my recommended setting to 1 1/8” to improve that condition. They have worked well at that setting.

[Glen]

Hi,
Sorry you had covid.

You didn't say if you replaced the pilot bushing. I wrote about it in my post on page 3 of this post, it's been a few weeks ago.
If the ID of the bushing is too small, it can make the clutch shaft keep turning when you push the clutch pedal down.

[Workinprogress]

I did not replaced the pilot bushing. It actually looked newer. I have to find my notes for the exact measurements but it didn’t seem worn and Caliper measurements put the ID of the bushing slightly larger than the shaft OD. If I measured correctly it was within spec.

The pilot bushing was one of the few parts in the entire clutch system that didn’t need to be replaced.

[Gary Dotson]

I think a lot of the time, the pilot bushing is best left alone. They really don’t wear much.

[Workinprogress]

Pressure plate fingers adjusted to 1 1/8”.
Pressure plate from TM has enough adjustment that I could get to 1 1/4” and still have enough threads for lock nut. Will likely keep them at 1 1/8”.

New oil pan gasket and oil pan installed.
New oil filter.

Was able to remove torque tube. Upper seal isn’t leaking but lower seal seemed to have some oil on it. Wasn’t orange like transmission oil so I am wondering if the oil was from the leaking main seal. It was leaking pretty bad and loading it on and off the trailer the oil could have ran down the tube.

Here is a photo.

Any thoughts? Everything is exposed do I just swap the seals?

[Glen]

Hi,
Good progress.

Since you have removed the clutch housing, you could replace the oil seal and retainer on the upper shaft.
TM Tractor has a listing for it, you can look at the pics.
They are a slightly different style than in 1952, the front side is flat.
Be sure to put it on with the bulged side facing to the rear, or into the transmission.
Then the oil seal lip is facing towards the trans.
When they are put on backwards, the PTO can slip out of engaged, because the clutch shaft can move ahead 1/4" or so.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tr/431fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tr/673fp.htm

You could check the 4 bolts on the lower cover, and see if they are tight.

If the clutch shaft was noisy when turning in neutral, that could be caused by the 2 bearings in the trans being noisy.
While the clutch housing is off is a good time to replace the 2 bearings. It is some work, you have to remove the shifter cover, the PTO and the rear cover.
The front ball bearing is pressed on the clutch shaft, and comes out with the shaft.
The rear bearing is in the trans housing.

If the shaft was quiet when turning in neutral, then the bearings probably don't need replacing.

[Workinprogress]

I have seals ordered for transmission and spent some time cleaning the grease off the torque tube today. To my surprise the top side of the rear plate has a crack!!!!

The left bolt hole seems to be all the way through. The right is still slightly connected. The crack also goes down into the tube.

The crack has been there a while as I was able to remove rust within the crack with a dental pick.

I have done a fair amount of welding but never on cast iron.

Any thoughts would be great?

[Don McCombs]

A replacement torque tube can be purchased relatively inexpensively. I would replace it with a good used one.

[Glen]

Hi,
You could look for a used clutch housing at J P Tractor Salvage, at the bottom of the page.

They have said on here that they have good service, and inspect parts before selling them.
It shows it in the list of parts there, click on Cub Inventory, then Drive Train, and it puts on a list of parts.

If someone was using implements in the past, and left the bolts loose, the threads can get worn in the implement mounting holes, in the sides of the housing. You would probably want one with all the threads good in the holes, besides having no cracks. You could ask them if they have any with all the threads good.

I would suggest you check the bolt hole threads in the front of the transmission case, for the bolts that hold the clutch housing on, to see if they are worn from using the Cub with loose bolts. The housing may have cracked from the lower bolts being loose in the past.
Turn just the bolts in the holes, and see if they wiggle sideways.
They should have about no side to side movement.

[Bob McCarty]

As you are in Vermont, I'd suggest placing a wanted ad in the "vine classified" subforum. You might find that someone close to you has one and that would save on shipping. Somewhat unusual for a torque tube to need replacement, so parts tractors usually have them available.

[Floater]

Do a Search on VT Craigslist for "Farmall" (one of my morning rituals).

There's a guy in Alburg with TWO torque tubes for sale in his pile of parts.

[Workinprogress]

Thanks Floater. I just sent them an email this morning.

[Workinprogress]

Moving forward again on the tractor. Honestly this is an amazing forum! Had multiple responses to my vine search and company’s like jp tractor and tm tractor, farmall forever all responded quickly to my email request for the clutch tube. While I found lots of options shipping was the killer.

Ended up getting one at “farm all fix” in Randolph, Vermont. I purchased the tractor there and Mike the owner came through with a good deal.

Another week or so of maple sugaring than the cub will be my focus again.