Rear main seal plate bolts tightness. Direction rod cap bolts
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Rear main seal plate bolts tightness. Direction rod cap bolts
Okay working on my 47' cub. I have pressed a new rear main seal into a new plate. I am wondering how tight to torque the bolts that hold the plate on the block? Also wondering the directionality of the nuts that go on the piston rod caps. They have little slits cut into them. Are the slits meant to go toward the Outside? meaning the slits are opposite the direction that the nuts are being tightened to? Also I have a video that I have been watching to help me through this project. The video says to tighten the 4 bolts that go into the back of the crankshaft that hold the flywheel on with a impact wrench. I don't have an impact wrench. I do have a torque wrench. Is there a torque that I could tighten to or should I take the block to a service station that has an impact wrench? Also are there different settings on an impact wrench that any service station would have? Thank-you
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Re: Rear main seal plate bolts tightness. Direction rod cap bolts
Your assumption on the orientation of the nuts is correct, the nut face with the slits faces away from the part being fastened. A torque wrench should always be used to confirm proper torque. The video probably mentioned using the impact wrench because the crank will try to turn. Just come up with a way to keep the flywheel from turning and tughten to the proper torque. Torque specs for all fasteners should be in the Blue Ribbon Service Manuals found under the Cub Info tab at the top of this page.
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Re: Rear main seal plate bolts tightness. Direction rod cap bolts
Hi,
Below is the Cub and LoBoy service manual, it has lots of info.
I would read the engine section, section 1, since you are working on the engine.
There is a contents beginning on page 1 of most sections, that makes it easier to use online.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
This manual was made in the 1970's so it has newer, 12 volt electrical system info.
Page 1-9 has torque specs for some parts, including the flywheel bolts.
All the impact wrenches I have seen have adjustable torque.
Your foot lbs torque wrench will work for the flywheel bolts, keep the flywheel from turning while tightening the bolts.
Page 6, in the group of 8 pages above the sections listings, has torque info for any bolts not listed for specific locations in the manual. You have to find the right torque in the table.
If you replaced the pilot bushing in the rear of the crankshaft, it's ID needs measuring with a dial caliper before putting the clutch pressure plate on the flywheel.
1 of the experts on here has said that the pilot bushing, in the end of the crankshaft, doesn't need replacing if it is still good.
Measure it's ID with a dial caliper and if it looks good, it can be used again.
If you replace the pilot bushing, be sure to measure it's ID with a dial caliper before putting the pressure plate on the flywheel.
If the clearance is too small, the bushing needs reaming to make it bigger.
The pilot bushing ID can shrink after driving it in the hole. Then if the bushing ID is too small, and you put the Cub together, the clutch shaft won't stop turning when you push the clutch pedal down.
Then the gears grind when trying to shift them.
Page 5-2 in the service manual, shows the running clearance for the pilot bushing, at Spline and clutch shaft.
If the bushing is too small, it needs reaming.
Below is the Cub and LoBoy service manual, it has lots of info.
I would read the engine section, section 1, since you are working on the engine.
There is a contents beginning on page 1 of most sections, that makes it easier to use online.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
This manual was made in the 1970's so it has newer, 12 volt electrical system info.
Page 1-9 has torque specs for some parts, including the flywheel bolts.
All the impact wrenches I have seen have adjustable torque.
Your foot lbs torque wrench will work for the flywheel bolts, keep the flywheel from turning while tightening the bolts.
Page 6, in the group of 8 pages above the sections listings, has torque info for any bolts not listed for specific locations in the manual. You have to find the right torque in the table.
If you replaced the pilot bushing in the rear of the crankshaft, it's ID needs measuring with a dial caliper before putting the clutch pressure plate on the flywheel.
1 of the experts on here has said that the pilot bushing, in the end of the crankshaft, doesn't need replacing if it is still good.
Measure it's ID with a dial caliper and if it looks good, it can be used again.
If you replace the pilot bushing, be sure to measure it's ID with a dial caliper before putting the pressure plate on the flywheel.
If the clearance is too small, the bushing needs reaming to make it bigger.
The pilot bushing ID can shrink after driving it in the hole. Then if the bushing ID is too small, and you put the Cub together, the clutch shaft won't stop turning when you push the clutch pedal down.
Then the gears grind when trying to shift them.
Page 5-2 in the service manual, shows the running clearance for the pilot bushing, at Spline and clutch shaft.
If the bushing is too small, it needs reaming.

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Re: Rear main seal plate bolts tightness. Direction rod cap bolts
pett3227b wrote:. . . The video says to tighten the 4 bolts that go into the back of the crankshaft that hold the flywheel on with a impact wrench. . . .
Based on that direction, I would probably question everything else in that video.
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Re: Rear main seal plate bolts tightness. Direction rod cap bolts
I used a pair of vice grips on the flywheel (connected up by the block) to keep it from turning and then used a torque wrench on the flywheel bolts.
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Re: Rear main seal plate bolts tightness. Direction rod cap bolts
I looked at some pages that were suggested and still wasn't able to find how tight to torque the bolts on the aluminum rear main seal plate. Does anyone know the spec for that?
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Re: Rear main seal plate bolts tightness. Direction rod cap bolts
Jim Becker wrote:pett3227b wrote:. . . The video says to tighten the 4 bolts that go into the back of the crankshaft that hold the flywheel on with a impact wrench. . . .
Based on that direction, I would probably question everything else in that video.
While technically I agree with you there are a lot of real world people that do it that way and don't worry about it. As long as you know not to ring them off. That said I would probably use a torque wrench since it's not hard and your there.
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Re: Rear main seal plate bolts tightness. Direction rod cap bolts
There are no bolts in a cub engine that need an impact wrench to tighten them. Even a cheap impact wrench can break any bolt on a cub engine. I often use the good and tight method with a wrench or 3/8 drive ratchet and socket rather than a torque wrench but never an impact wrench
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