Revitalization of a dormant Loboy

[tst]

did you remove the points plate from the distributor and make sure the advance weights are free and the pivot on the shaft moves ??

[Glen]

Hi,
The spark advance is made inside the Battery Ignition unit.
If a timing light shows the spark is at the TDC mark when the engine is running at 500 RPM, the governor and it's gear timing is not the problem.

The rotor, and shaft with the cam for the ignition points in the Battery Ignition unit should turn back and forth slightly. It sounds like the shaft might be frozen and not move.
Its movement is part of the spark advance. The spark advance won't work if the shaft won't turn as designed.

The end of the shaft the rotor is on should be oiled with light motor oil, to keep it from tightening up and not moving.
Below is a page from a manual about the Battery Ignition unit showing where to oil.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-12.jpg

After oiling it, put the rotor on and gently turn it both ways and try to loosen the shaft, it may take time to work oil in it. It only turns a small amount.
If you turn the engine so the cutaway side of the shaft is up, it will hold more oil there on the end of the shaft.

If you can't get it loose you will need to remove the points and the plate the points are on.
The weights and springs are behind the plate. You can check them too when it is apart.

Below is a page from the Cub and LoBoy parts manual showing the Battery Ignition unit.
Number 15 in the pic turns slightly on number 18.
14 are the advance weights, 16 are the springs. Be careful to not damage the springs, they are small.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-28.jpg

Be sure the hole in the end of the main jet is clean.
If the problem with the carburetor is the main jet, you will need to find one that works right, so the engine runs good with the choke fully open when the engine is warmed up.

[Jackman]

did you remove the points plate from the distributor and make sure the advance weights are free and the pivot on the shaft moves ??

I took it apart tonight it appears to be free no rust or debris. Big surprise for me I thought I put an electronic ignition in there 5 years ago, any I’m going to order an electronic unit.

[Jackman]

Hi,
The spark advance is made inside the Battery Ignition unit.
If a timing light shows the spark is at the TDC mark when the engine is running at 500 RPM, the governor and it's gear timing is not the problem.

The rotor, and shaft with the cam for the ignition points in the Battery Ignition unit should turn back and forth slightly. It sounds like the shaft might be frozen and not move.
Its movement is part of the spark advance. The spark advance won't work if the shaft won't turn as designed.

The end of the shaft the rotor is on should be oiled with light motor oil, to keep it from tightening up and not moving.
Below is a page from a manual about the Battery Ignition unit showing where to oil.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-12.jpg

After oiling it, put the rotor on and gently turn it both ways and try to loosen the shaft, it may take time to work oil in it. It only turns a small amount.
If you turn the engine so the cutaway side of the shaft is up, it will hold more oil there on the end of the shaft.

If you can't get it loose you will need to remove the points and the plate the points are on.
The weights and springs are behind the plate. You can check them too when it is apart.

Below is a page from the Cub and LoBoy parts manual showing the Battery Ignition unit.
Number 15 in the pic turns slightly on number 18.
14 are the advance weights, 16 are the springs. Be careful to not damage the springs, they are small.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-28.jpg

Be sure the hole in the end of the main jet is clean.
If the problem with the carburetor is the main jet, you will need to find one that works right, so the engine runs good with the choke fully open when the engine is warmed up.

Thanks Glen, I definitely will read up on distributor and governor operations . Any idea of how many different sizes of main jets there are? TM only list two. I have 4 jets two TM jets a .30 and .34 , one import and an IH 1951 the jets are not marked.

[tst]

you need to go deeper, take the cover off the weights, Make sure they move freely the shaft has a pivot on it, probably frozen

[Jackman]

Weights are slightly gummy but free going to clean it up it up while I wait for the ignition to arrive.

[tst]

the part in the center on the shaft needs to pivot, looks stuck in the picture

[Eugene]

the part in the center on the shaft needs to pivot, looks stuck in the picture

It's lubricated by a drop of oil on the felt/black spot.

[Jackman]

Center pivots nicely and the weights move the same , just waiting for the ignition to arrive.

[Jackman]

After a bit of delay for a family vacation and a long overdue shelter build for the Cub I got the Prertronix ignition installed and wow is the word what an awesome improvement the Cub starts faster, idles smoother and revs up better than ever , a super easy install worthy of the 150 dollars spent imop .

A few pics of shelter I’m stoked to have my Cub out of the weather it sat thirty years bearing whatever Mother Nature delivered.

[Jackman]

Back on the Cub , starts and idles nice but only revs to 1250 with a very slight flutter with the best of the 5 main jets installed.

Anyone think it might need a bigger main jet via me drilling it?

I’ve done timing light and tach , engine seems to run the same no matter where I set the air screw.

Might have a video soon , trying to download it to YouTube.

[Jackman]

Spoke too soon Cub just needed the governor Rod to the carb threaded out about a 1/4 in I now have about 1800 rpm’s and a nice low speed idle

[Jackman]

Now that I have a 12 volt alternator going to toss the amp gauge for a volt gauge and install a master battery on/off switch along with a battery tender . Also going to shop for some super bright led headlights .

[Glen]

Hi,
The LoBoy looks good in your pics.

I noticed in the last pic the clip that holds the long throttle rod might be bent or gone.
The clip needs to be in place so the rod doesn't flex up and down.

The clip bolts on near the right rear corner of the engine head.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor, showing the shape the clip should be.

The rod should stay in about the same place the clip would hold it, if you took the clip off.
Bend the rod up or down, so the clip can hold it easily.
Hold the rod at the front with 1 hand so you don't make pressure on the governor arm at the front of the rod, the arm can break.

Put the rod in the clip, and bend the clip mostly closed so it holds the rod.
Be sure the rod slides freely in the clip.
Oil the rod at the clip and both ends of the rod.
Oil the governor arm pivot, they commonly get tight from no oil.

[Jackman]

Cool I’ll check that out in the morning I think the clip is there I removed the dashboard and the rods to make it easier to wire new 12 volt alternator. Thanks for the tips I’m stoked that I’m getting this Cub Loboy back up and running it’s been sitting way too long.. Might even do a full clutch and rear main seal