Battery cable rounting - 12v Square front Cub

[PFord]

Does anyone have a set of photos that show the routing of the battery cables (stock) for a 12v square front Cub? I specifically need to see where the ground strap is supposed to go, and where the positive lead exits the battery box.

Thanks in advance.

[Don McCombs]

The 1975 Parts Catalog shows that information. It's located in the PDF Manuals section.

[PFord]

The 1975 Parts Catalog shows that information. It's located in the PDF Manuals section.

Awesome. I'll go check it out. Thank you!

[PFord]

That was helpful, but I think I'm going to need to see a photo. Part of my problem is that I've never seen another cub up close. So trying to figure all this out without the benefit of having actually seen it is hard for me. Especially since I am a "visual learner". I think I need to go stare at mine a little bit more.

[Dale Finch]

I have earlier cubs, so ignore what doesn't apply to your later square nose cub. Also, my cub was 6v at the time of cable replacement,so the size of welding cable I used would probably be larger than you would need for 12v.
But as far as materials & routing, I think this might help.

As mentioned, I use welding cable, since it is quite flexible. I also really like the ease of use of the Fusion brand pre-soldered terminal ends. An important item to have is the "clamp-on" rub guard clip right down in between the clutch pedal and the clutch housing, which prevents rubbing (and possible shorting! ) of the battery cable.

Hope these photos help:

ARC 3 welding company clamped on the starter end lug. Battery terminal end was installed AFTER cable routing.

Vise grips easily keep the clutch pedal out of the way when installing the panel cable clip

Notice how the clamp on and the panel clips keep the cable away from the clutch pedal

I'll add photos but need to get on my computer rather than my phone, where I have all my photos...I'll be back!

[PFord]

I have earlier cubs, so ignore what doesn't apply to your later square nose cub. Also, my cub was 6v at the time of cable replacement,so the size of welding cable I used would probably be larger than you would need for 12v.
But as far as materials & routing, I think this might help.

As mentioned, I use welding cable, since it is quite flexible. I also really like the ease of use of the Fusion brand pre-soldered terminal ends. An important item to have is the "clamp-on" rub guard clip right down in between the clutch pedal and the clutch housing, which prevents rubbing (and possible shorting! ) of the battery cable.

Thank you, where did you attach the ground cable to the body? It looks like my positive cable is using the correct routing under the tractor and past the clutch. What I don't know is how it and the ground cable are supposed to look from the battery box perspective.

[inairam]

Unless you plan to show the tractor or are doing a 100% factory restoration I would suggest not using the battery box for the ground.

I run a steel Braided Battery Ground Strap between the battery and the inside of box to one of the bolts holding the battery box to the rear axle case. This offers a better ground. I also bare metal on the inside and outside of the box and the axel in that bolt area and use conductive grease to reduce rust.

Ground is very important with the products we make at work and some of that thinking has made it to my tractors.

[Dale Finch]

I have attached the battery cable in a couple different places on my 5 cubs, mostly based on the condition of the platform and battery boxes. You need a really good ground wherever you attach it, meaning no rust, primer or paint!

I was looking for a complete series, but they are filed by tractor, so it's slow searching for a specific theme. I'll probably end up with a group of photos from different tractors, so ignore the presence or not of paint!

MUST remove paint where battery box contacts the platform (on both box and platform)

Original attachment location of the ground cable...again, paint MUST be removed where the bolt attaches, and lug must be bright and rust-free.

On another tractor...per a post by Bigdog (http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=82170)

The attachment bolt areas WERE ground free of rust, primer & paint

Location/routing also depends on the battery type you have and where the posts are located...hope these help a bit! Have fun.
OH! The second wire you might see attached to the battery and exiting with the non-ground battery cable is the pigtail for my battery tender that I permanently attached at the terminal clamps.

[PFord]

Unless you plan to show the tractor or are doing a 100% factory restoration I would suggest not using the battery box for the ground.

I run a steel Braided Battery Ground Strap between the battery and the inside of box to one of the bolts holding the battery box to the rear axle case. This offers a better ground. I also bare metal on the inside and outside of the box and the axel in that bolt area and use conductive grease to reduce rust.

Ground is very important with the products we make at work and some of that thinking has made it to my tractors.

Thank you for the advice. This is a working tractor so no worries about having to use the original spot. I'll be sure to get to clean metal.

[PFord]

I have attached the battery cable in a couple different places on my 5 cubs, mostly based on the condition of the platform and battery boxes. You need a really good ground wherever you attach it, meaning no rust, primer or paint!

Location/routing also depends on the battery type you have and where the posts are located...hope these help a bit! Have fun.
OH! The second wire you might see attached to the battery and exiting with the non-ground battery cable is the pigtail for my battery tender that I permanently attached at the terminal clamps.

This was absolute GOLD! Thank you so much! I now have a good plan of attack!

[inairam]

I also use 18-8 stainless bolts and lock washers for the battery box and ground strap.

[inairam]

This is not what you have but it shows the battery cable path under the hood to behind the spark plug wires down to the starter.

[PFord]

This is not what you have but it shows the battery cable path under the hood to behind the spark plug wires down to the starter.

Yep, mine looks the same. Looks like mine is routed correctly except for how it's done at the battery box.

Thanks!

[PFord]

I also use 18-8 stainless bolts and lock washers for the battery box and ground strap.

Good deal. I'm sure that info will come in handy!

[Glen]

Hi,
The 12 volt system battery ground strap originally went to the left rear bolt holding the battery box on the housing, it looks like in the pic in the 1965 Cub and LoBoy operator's manual.

Below is the page.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-25.jpg

The battery can't sit on the ground strap at all at the rear, it could wear through the battery case.
They have said on here that the original ground strap is made so it can go under the battery in the space that there is.

The battery it originally uses has the posts on the left side, with the positive post at the front.

The positive cable goes out the hole in the battery box shown in the pic, and then down under the platform, and forward.

Below is a pic of the cable at the battery box.
The 12 volt Cubs have no nut and bolt at the battery box hole to the front of the cable hole.
That is where the 6 volt system ground cable connects on the battery box.
The hole is just open on the 12 volt system, I think. You can look on your Cub, and see if there is a hole there.

Below is a page from the same manual showing the 12 volt electrical system in the upper pic on the page. You can see how the battery cable is connected at the starter.
Disregard the 6 volt battery pic on the page. The manual is made for 6 volt and 12 volt Cubs and LoBoys.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-26.jpg