1949 Cub Natchez MS Updates

[cavingreer]

Well the day came to replace tires because Pop's 1968 had to have them and mine needed them too. Got then to the tire dealer and once they got the old tires off the rims were too rusty to put new tires and tubes on. I picked them back up and spent a week cleaning and priming his, but mine are in such bad shape I'm going to have to replace the rims. If anyone has an original pair in decent shape let me know, otherwise I'll grab the aftermarket ones for $122/ea.

Meanwhile time to fix my final drives and brakes. My brakes have never worked, the drums were so full of greasy crud they wouldn't even drain. After getting them off, cleaning about a pint of gunk out and pulling the drums I found neither side had the woodruff key in. I found the keys in the gunk. One drum the keyway is broken out and the other side is almost as bad. One set screw is in decent shape, the other is broken off. So all new drums, bolts and bands it is. Haven't torn the rest down yet but here's a few pics. Also notice that one of the dowel pins was actually a really long bolt? LOL

[Glen]

Hi,
I hope you are replacing the oil seals, while the final drive is off.
The seals look like the original style that was used on the earlier Cubs.

Remember to not hammer directly on a new oil seal, use a seal driver, or put a wood block, or clean flat metal over the seal to hammer on.
Sometimes large sockets can be used, if one fits.

I don't see how the final drive would fit on with the long bolt in it.

I would read Dale F.'s How To about brake repair, and removing a final drive, it has lots of pics.

You could put a want ad in The Vine on here for the rear rims.

[tst]

keep in mind for new rims you need to use a carriage style bolt as the factory cub bolts do not fit the new type rims

[cavingreer]

Yes I'm aware. But the vendor I have an eye on at $122 a rim with free shipping they look great. Either a galvanized or really nice silver finish. My bolts were rusted half through so even if I find a nice set of original rims I have to replace the center bolts

[tst]

careful that the grade rating on those bolts are only 2 or 3, should be at least 5, have used several of the new ones and they are good quality

[cavingreer]

Popped the old seals out and cleaned up the retainers. Outer races are fairly pitted. The inner bearings feel smooth and tight. This is after a thorough wire brushing. Think they'll be ok?

[Gary Dotson]

No, they won’t be ok! Any pitting on a bearing race is unacceptable. New bearings and races are in order.

[cavingreer]

That's how I felt about it

[Slim140]

Get new oil seals for the transmission on both sides as well while you have it apart.

[cavingreer]

Get new oil seals for the transmission on both sides as well while you have it apart.

You mean the seals that go on the outside of the bearing retainers? Yes I ordered them

[cavingreer]

I have the new races on the way. Managed to get the old ones out. Amazing what you can do with a little patience, a good vise, a big old screwdriver older than your are and a maul

[Bob McCarty]

I ground down the outside of one old race so it was a loose fit in the retainer and then used it to drive the new one in.

[cavingreer]

Good idea. I was planning on using my vise and a wood block or some other steel scrap. I'll have to keep that in mind as a backup plan

[Glen]

Hi,
I would also replace the oil seals outward of the brake drums, on the upper shafts.
They are in the final drives.
A long punch works good to remove them, hammer them the way that would be towards the transmission when they are assembled on the Cub.

Look at my post above about installing oil seals, it was last month I wrote it there.

[cavingreer]

I ordered all the seals I could identify from the final drives, brakes and drums. Ordered the bearing caps when I saw how pitted they were. The bearings look great and feel smooth so I'm leaving them