1947 cub charging

[dennis/1946]

Thanks for the add, New owner here so I have a lot to learn.. I bought this cub when I got it home it didn't charge, The PO told me it didn't but I though NO big deal. However, It had the battery in backwards, I reversed that, polarized the regulator, checked the generator it will run on it's own, and the PO said it was a new Regulator.. I cannot find a schematic that is the original 6 volt Pos ground with a regulator and a distributor . It seems like I have the same wiring as a lot on here except I have a wire from the generator to the light switch also a wire that goes to the reg on the field lug. It seems like everything ohms out ok it just won't charge Trying to figure out if I need that extra wire from the field on gen to the field on the regulator I can't find a schematic that has the wire Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[staninlowerAL]

Just in case you haven't discovered it yet, a 1947 6v OEM would have been positive ground. What's your SN? You might have a Circle Cub!

[tst]

unless it has been changed your system should have had a cut out replay, not a regulator, relay is mounted on top of the generator

[Glen]

Hi,
A 1947 Cub originally came with a magneto, not a distributor.
The Battery Ignition unit IH calls it came out during 1950, and some older Cubs were converted to them, you need to identify which the Cub has.
A magneto makes its own power, and is not connected to battery power.
There are pics of the magneto in the manual below, and a pic of a Battery Ignition unit at the bottom of my post.

Check the serial number of the Cub and see if it is a 1947, or newer.

A 1947 Cub has a Relay on top of the generator, it is not a voltage regulator.
The Relay has 3 posts for wires to connect to it, the voltage regulator has 4 posts.
The Cub should have a 4 position turning style switch on the dash, for the charge rate, and the lights.

The voltage regulator came out during 1950, it is on a plate beside the gen, not on top of it.
The pic of the Battery Ignition unit below shows part of the voltage regulator also, in the right side of the pic.
There is more info about the 4 position switch in the info below.

The Cub owner's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1947 Cub owner's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 14.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

It shows the electrical system that a 1947 Cub originally had.
Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.

The charging system originally has a cutout, or Relay, IH called it on top of the generator, there is a pic on page 33 of the manual with the hood off, showing the electrical system.
It has a 4 position charge and light switch on the dash, to control the gen output.
It was before Cubs had voltage regulators, you had to choose the charge rate yourself.
The switch has 4 positions, L, low charge, H, high charge, D, dim front lights, and B, bright lights.
The electrical system info begins on page 32 of the manual, and using the switch is explained on page 34.
You should be able to see what it is charging on the ammeter, when the engine is running.
The engine has to be above idle speed for the gen to charge.

There is no Touch Control info in the 1947 owner's manual. It is in later owner's manuals.
The Touch Control uses Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying one.
The newer manuals tell how to check or change the Touch Control fluid, and remove the air from the system.
Be sure to check the fluid level with the arms in the rear, or down position, the manual says.

Below is a post I made about checking and changing the Touch Control fluid.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=106664

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.
The manual tells how to check and change the oils.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

The air cleaner is an oil bath air cleaner. Dirt that is sucked in settles to the bottom of the oil cup. It should have clean, light motor oil in the oil cup to work right.

There is a search box at the top of the page, to the right of the Farmall Cub, you can find info in posts that have been made.

Below are wiring diagrams for Cubs.
The 1st is for Cubs before serial number 115403.
The 2nd is for 115403 and above, up until 210000.

[dennis/1946]

The Serial Number is 11064, there is also a number under the cub that reads 1800 pp is what it looks like. It is 4 lugs definitely a regulator and is mounted behind the dash. Is the whole problem missing the cutout Should I buy a cutout and replace the regulator The PO I bought it from told me that he bought the regulator, it's brand new Possibly he bought the wrong thing. Thanks in advance

[Glen]

Hi,
The 1800 on the serial number plate is the maximum engine RPM.
Sometimes the words on the plate are faded away, or someone has painted over the plate, and you can't read it.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of a new serial number plate showing the original words on the plate.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sp/101fp.htm

Yes, if it's a regulator, he bought the wrong part for a 1947 Cub, unless the wiring has been changed in the past to use a regulator.
I guess there is no Touch Control, if the regulator is behind the dash. There's no room there if it has Touch Control.
I don't know if you have the hood off, if it is look on the generator, it should be a Delco, with an ID plate on it, the model number is on the left of the plate. A 1947 Cub would have a 1101355 gen.
They are made for the Relay to bolt on top of them.
There should be 2 threaded holes, I think.

I think the gen can be used with the regulator, but I've never tried it.

Maybe Jim Becker will write about it, I think he has talked about it before.

[dennis/1946]

The plate is not in too good of shape, but thanks for the 1800 rpm. it looked like pp . anyway, i received my manual and been reading a lot more. I have the 4 position light switch so it seems like I really need the cut off. Learning more each day. I guess I'll start looking for a cut out. I will check the generator tomorrow and see what that unfolds.I think I may just get this thing fixed. Thanks for the info

[dennis/1946]

This is the generator I have on the tractor. It looks like small holes on top threaded like maybe 10-32. Will this generator work with a cutout? Thanks again


Wilson 92-01-3050 Generator, 6V, 20A, CW

Description: Generator
Critical Notes: Not Mechanical Tach Drive Compatible!
OEM(s): Delco
Voltage: 6
Amps: 20
Condition: Remanufactured
Rotation: CW
OD: 4.472in / 113.6mm
Shaft OD: 0.669in / 17mm
Length: 10in / 254mm
Terminal 1 Size: 12-24
Terminal 2 Size: 12-24
Shaft: 3.2mm x 15.3mm Woodruff Key
Notes:
.669-20 Threaded Armature Shaft
Dual Mounting Feet (155.7mm Apart) with 8.3mm Mounting Holes
Weight: 18.47 lbs / 8.39 kg

[Glen]

Hi,
I looked online for the number you wrote, and found the listing below.
It shows model numbers that it will work for in the list with red numbers.
It will evidently work with a Relay, or a voltage regulator.
1100501 is the Delco generator that was used on Cubs for years with the voltage regulator.
That number is the 2nd number in the long list.
The 1101355 is in the list also.

https://www.finditparts.com/products/29 ... 20Products

You can use either the Relay or regulator, whichever you want, according to the listing.
I guess the gen you have looks like the one in the listing.

[tst]

just to add if you keep the regulator it should not be wired through the light switch as it would be for the cutout relay in 47, here is a chart to help you find the issue with it not charging, make sure it is wired correctly 1st for the regulator and its polarized, still not charging follow the flow chart

[Jim Becker]

Looks like you are on the right track.

There are regulators intended to replace a cut-out and go with the original generator. They come with a saddle mount that can be attached on top of the generator. Closely inspect the regulator and see if you can find a model number stamped into the base.

The letters "RPM" (or "PP" whatever) should have been part of the silk screening that is no longer visible on the serial plate. I am curious about whatever it is that could be seen after the "1800". Can you post a picture?

[Barnyard]

Dennis, Welcome to the group. The guys pretty much have you on the right track.

I am just west of Cincinnati, so we are not far apart. You might want to check out www.barnyardbash.com and https://www.facebook.com/cubtug. there is another CubFest in Harrison in October.

[dennis/1946]

Thanks tons, So I'm realizing I should take the wire from the light switch off and run it to the regulator to the field terminal? I could not ever find a schematic for a 1947 cub with a distributor and a regulator. All had magneto or a cutoff. I will post a picture of the serial number tag tomorrow. When I bought it he told me it was a 48 but from what I gather it's a 47. Thanks again for all the help. One other question. I changed it to positive ground. I watched videos on you tube about this I get confused when people talk about the ground like grounding the generator to see if it spins. Do they mean ground as negative on the battery or ground as the positive side. To me ground was always ground, negative. But I;m assuming when they say ground they are talking positive, correct?

[Glen]

Hi,
Yes, 11064 is a 1947 Cub.
The info at the top of the page at Cub Info says serial numbers 501 - 11347 are 1947 Cubs.

All 1947 - mid 1950 Cubs originally had a magneto, and the Relay on top of the generator.
If yours has a Battery Ignition unit, and the voltage regulator, it has been changed.
The generator you showed above is a replacement.

The 1947 Cub is originally positive ground.

The people in videos that you said, unless they are working on old tractors, and say they are positive ground, they are probably negative ground, which is common nowadays.
But I am guessing, I don't know which videos you saw.

[dennis/1946]

Here is my plate, It's in poor shape but blowing it up I can see it indicates RPM instead of PP, I removed the wire from the light switch and moved it to the field on the regulator, I believe it is working. I read 7.4 at the generator. The video I was referring to was that Rachel girl I think her name was. She sells that workshop manual on the cub. but she says to start the tractor and remove the ground off the battery and see if it keeps running. so My mind says negative cable cause she says ground but I'm guessing she means positive. confusing to me. I guess when you say ground it's really positive. Is there a replacement model plate One can purchase or should I leave it like it is. Thanks again for all the input. I am going to make it to that cubfest in October.