A puzzling problem

[Bob McCarty]

When you open the carb, pull the two halves straight apart or you'll risk snapping off the idle tube.

[PFord]

When you open the carb, pull the two halves straight apart or you'll risk snapping off the idle tube.

Noted. I've seen that advice given several times in the past and I'll be SURE to follow it!

Thanks.

[Don McCombs]

When you pull the carb apart, pull the halves straight apart. No twisting or turning. The idle tube can be quite fragile.

[inairam]

I am not sure I would even do this what do you think about pulling the manifold off to see if there is something blocking some of the.passages or in the ports in the block that would cause this?

I still do not understand it being the cab if some cylinders are dry and other wet. it has to be related to the individual cylinders not something common to all.

[oldfarmkid]

Don't see anything wrong with pulling the manifold if thats where your reasoning and curiosity has lead you. I think you have a good point. Like you , I don't understand some cylinders dry and some wet and just one carb feeding them all.

[Lnk]

I am not sure I would even do this what do you think about pulling the manifold off to see if there is something blocking some of the.passages or in the ports in the block that would cause this?

I still do not understand it being the cab if some cylinders are dry and other wet. it has to be related to the individual cylinders not something common to all.

He did a compression test and all cylinders are within 2 psi if I remember correctly. That is why the difference in fuel supplied is making us suggest manifold blockage or gasket not sealing around 1/2. I am sure I could figure it out were it in front of me. But will have to guess best we can with the information provided.

I do hope this gets solved as less intrusively and inexpensive as possible.

[PFord]

Yea, that's why in my initial posts I said it seemed like either a blockage or a leak. And on just the front two cylinders, which I now know share an intake runner.

The current plan is this:

1. My gasket set arrives on Sunday. I'll pull the manifold, inspect for blockage, install new gaskets, and torque back down to specs. Then test the motor.

2. I'll pull the head, have a look around, then install a new head gasket and torque down to spec.

3. If that doesn't work, I'll pull the carb, split it, put it in the ultrasonic for a while, verify the float level, re-assemble, and see if it's better.

4. If it still isn't working, I'll order all new parts for the distributor and rebuild that, cap, rotor, points, condenser.





If none of those work I'll sell it! LOL!

[Jim Becker]

If you haven't reset the gap on the valves, do it as part of your step 1 while the manifold is off.

[PFord]

If you haven't reset the gap on the valves, do it as part of your step 1 while the manifold is off.

Good call. I've had nothing off this tractor yet. Only had it for 6 weeks. Hate that I had to tear into this soon to be honest.

[Lnk]

If you haven't reset the gap on the valves, do it as part of your step 1 while the manifold is off.

Good call. I've had nothing off this tractor yet. Only had it for 6 weeks. Hate that I had to tear into this soon to be honest.

You may not have to tear into it too badly. Might get away easy. Be careful if you do pull the head. I have read the bolts go into the water jacket, and are easy to break off in the head. Look up how to do a leak down test before pulling the head. And yes, adjust the valves when the manifold is off. Much easier. Though not too hard if you have the carb off and an upward exhaust. Go slow and think it through whatever you are doing. Don't create any problems if you can.

[Eugene]

2. I'll pull the head, have a look around, then install a new head gasket and torque down to spec.

No. Compression test indicated no problem.

4. If it still isn't working, I'll order all new parts for the distributor and rebuild that, cap, rotor, points, condenser.

Local auto parts store should have the listed parts in stock.

Investigate first before throwing parts at the tractor. Have you fully investigated the ignition?

My sequence for working on the C-60 engine; compression, ignition, and lastly carburation.

[Urbish]

A cheap borescope from Harbor Freight or your favorite online retailer would allow you to inspect the inside of the manifold from the carb flange without having to remove the manifold. You would be surprised how many other uses you might find for a borescope.

[PFord]

A cheap borescope from Harbor Freight or your favorite online retailer would allow you to inspect the inside of the manifold from the carb flange without having to remove the manifold. You would be surprised how many other uses you might find for a borescope.

I have a couple of uses ALREADY for a borescope! Stop tempting me!

But part of what I think could be a problem with the manifold is a leak. And that would only be remedied by a gasket replacement. And wouldn't show up on the borescope. So this is basically a 2 for 1.

[PFord]

2. I'll pull the head, have a look around, then install a new head gasket and torque down to spec.

No. Compression test indicated no problem.

4. If it still isn't working, I'll order all new parts for the distributor and rebuild that, cap, rotor, points, condenser.

Local auto parts store should have the listed parts in stock.

Investigate first before throwing parts at the tractor. Have you fully investigated the ignition?

My sequence for working on the C-60 engine; compression, ignition, and lastly carburation.

Compression test would show solid results if the intake valve was stuck closed. It's helpful but not definitive in my book.

As far as throwing parts at it, I'm OK with it. Some of these parts are nearly 50 years old. I had intended to go through and replace a lot of them anyway. I'm just having to do it sooner than I hoped. And a full kit for a distributor is $20. I'm good with that.

[Eugene]

Compression test would show solid results if the intake valve was stuck closed. It's helpful but not definitive in my book.

Wrong Book. If valve was stuck closed, engine would not turn over. Cam shaft lobe would jamb/hit the valve stem, stopping crankshaft rotation.

You are going to check the valve lifter gap?

With listed compression, just conduct a full/100% engine tune up.

On, unlit propane torch around intake manifold ports with someone cranking the engine over. Ignition on. Test for leaking intake manifold gaskets.

Post photos of your old spark plugs. Engine pumping oil/fouling plugs can still have good compression.