1950 Cub 104142 white paint

[Don McCombs]

Not unusual.

[Bob McCarty]

Yes, overfull likely from condensation. Hopefully the seals haven't been leaking too much.

[Wingit]

So here’s what I got. External coil with J4 magneto. 3 brush generator with cutout relay. 2 post toggle ignition switch with 4 position light switch. Everything seems to be working but wiring has had it’s day. Started buying stuff to rewire this and I’m already into it for 100 bucks with just the wire connecters and a plastic sleeve to keep things in place. I would still have to buy a soldering gun to make any decent connections and they’re hovering around 70 bucks here. With this I don’t get the cotton braiding the plastic coated terminals etc. Considering buying a wiring harness either 351 325 R91 or 354 252 R92. Would probably have to modify either one but one may be better than the other. Any parts I buy here in Canada are the US price +45% +13% tax plus shipping. Any thoughts on this?

[staninlowerAL]

Your question is almost like the situation in this post: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=113823 If you want a wiring harness customized for your situation, contact Brillman or Poarch Electric. Previous posts on this subject by others say they will work with you to get what you want.

[Jim Becker]

It sounds like other than the coil conversion you have a completely stock system. Original wiring harness, 351325R91 would still fit correctly. Keep in mind that it only has 4 wires. The ignition switch to magneto (or coil in this case) is a separate cable, not in the harness. Likewise, the cable from the light switch to the rear light is separate. As part of the coil conversion, there also has to be a short jumper behind the dash to feed power to the ignition switch. SInce that wire was added along with the coil (much newer than the rest0, it may be reusable.

[Wingit]

Thanks Jim. Considered going back to magneto but the black cover has hairline cracks so that plus coil plus plus plus and I’m into a third of what the Cub cost me. Your suggestion seems the most reasonable.

[Wingit]

Morning Gents

The previous owner said most cub transmissions are noisy. Noise stops when clutch depressed. Reverse and 3 forward gears work fine. Noise doesn’t change in any gear. Transmission shifts fine. Sounds like a rattle. Any thoughts on what it might be and if it sounds serious would be much appreciated. I can live with the noise if that’s how many of the Cubs sound.

Steve

[Jim Becker]

Most Cub transmissions are noisy to one extent or another. They weren't that way when they were new. Your noise sounds to me like bearing noise. One thing we can't get from a recording is how loud it is, but it seems fairly loud. Since the noise is there only when the clutch is engaged and even in neutral, it is coming from the upper (input) shaft. I am assuming the PTO was also disengaged when you recorded it. I would take the top cover off and inspect it. There is one bearing at each end of the transmission. You can't get a good look at the bearings, but can check the shaft for any free play (like up-down). You can also make sure the oil passages are clear so the bearings get oiled. Unfortunately, the top cover lets you inspect things, but replacing a bearing requires a split at the front of the transmission.

[Wingit]

Had the top cover off yesterday Jim and didn’t see anything glaring but I’ll take it off again and check the free play you mentioned.

[Glen]

Hi,
It is common for the 2 clutch shaft bearings to become noisy after lots of use.
They are quiet running when new, or in good condition.

Below are listings for them at TM Tractor.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tr/521fp.htm

The rear bearing was changed to a different bearing at the serial number shown in the listing.
They changed it to a needle bearing with a smaller OD, so the hole in the transmission housing is smaller.
Check the trans housing part number and be sure it ends with what they show in the listing before buying the bearing. The number can be seen from under the platform, I think.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tr/128fp.htm

Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing the clutch shaft and bearings.

The front bearing is number 11 in the pic, and the rear bearing is number 5.
The front bearing is pressed on the shaft and is usually tight.
You may need to have the old bearing pressed off and the new bearing pressed on.
The front seal and retainer is number 14, and should be replaced if you take it apart.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 007-08.jpg

The clutch shaft slides out the front of the trans.

Below is a listing for a new front seal and retainer.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tr/431fp.htm

The front seal retainer has to face so the bulged side of it faces to the rear, or into the trans.
The shaft can move ahead if the retainer is backwards, and the PTO can slip out of engaged.
The bottom pic in the listing above shows the bulged side.

Before splitting a Cub, put wooden wedges at the front axle pivot. A Cub is heavier on the left side, and they can tip over if parts of them are removed from the rear, or you split it without wedges.
You will need to make them from wood.
Hammer them in tight, they should be tight on the top and bottom sides.
Be sure they don't hit metal at the small end. Cut off the small end some if they hit there.
Check them some during the work, to be sure they don't loosen.

There is a section about splitting a Cub in the Cub service manual GSS-1411, I would read it before splitting it.
There are posts in the How To section about splitting Cubs. People make splitting stands that bolt on the implement mounting pads on the sides of the clutch housing.
There are pics of at least one with a small wheel on the bottom, using that you can wheel the front part of the Cub away from the rear part.
If you split it in front of the trans, it has to be so nothing moves up or down when it is split, the clutch shaft has to pass through the throwout bearing hole, and then through it again when you put it together.
If you split it in front of the trans, and the clutch shaft is out of the clutch, don't push the clutch pedal down, the clutch disc would fall down, then you would need to use an aligning tool in the disc before the Cub would go together again.

Below are pics.
The 1st pic shows the clutch shaft after removing the clutch housing from the trans.
The 2nd pic shows the rear bearing, it stays in the housing, and has a shield on each side of it.
The PTO and rear cover should be removed to get to the rear bearing.
The 3rd pic shows the wedges.
They don't have to be made at as much of an angle.

[Wingit]

Thanks Glen
Your post holds a wealth of information which will be invaluable in the future. Had an oil leak by the flywheel inspection cover but as it turned out it was a leak at the rear of the oil pan. Was surprised to see no sludge in the oil pan so after a good cleaning and new gasket all leaks are gone. When I went to change the oil filter there wasn’t one in there. Lots of deferred maintenance to be done as I go through the list you fellas provided when I first joined the forum.

[Wingit]

Well took the top cover off the transmission to check things again. There is no free play on the shaft. The oil holes looked clogged so I cleaned them up. The back one now takes fluid freely where as the front one it just lays in the little reservoir and doesn’t seem to move. I cleaned the front hole well with a pic and some WD-40 and blew it out with compressor air. With a flashlight I can actually see metal at the bottom of the hole but still no joy. Or maybe it takes fluid very slowly.

[Glen]

Hi,
I use a drill bit, and turn it down into the oil holes, it collects the dirt, and you can pull it out on the bit.
No electric drill, just a bit that fits in the holes. You can use pliers, or a Vise Grip pliers to turn the bit.

You might only be able to go part way at a time if there is dirt in the holes. Pull it out and clean the bit, then go in more, they hit metal at the bottom of the hole.
Use air and blow into the holes after the bit goes fully down, hopefully the oil can get to the bearings then.

Look at the rear facing side of the front ball bearing with a light, if it's been replaced before, it could have a shield on it which covers most of the one side of the bearing, that is what the Case IH replacement bearing had some years ago, they might still be the same.
The shield lets oil through slowly. It has a small gap around the ID of the shield.

Or they could have put it so the shield is ahead.
The Case IH parts man I have known for years said the shield should go to the rear.

Or if it's been replaced, someone could have put in a sealed bearing, then no oil would probably go down the oil hole or through the bearing.

[Wingit]

The front hole is completely clean and no shield on the bearing. The previous owner mentioned something about bushings creating noise as they wear. When arranging a trailer to bring the Cub home he suggested just driving it the 13 miles home and seemed very confident. Anyway that’s as far as I can go on that so we’ll button it up and move on to the electrical harness replacement.

[Don McCombs]

I think on a “new to you” tractor, you were wise to get a trailer.