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51 Cub Maintenance
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- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2020 2:14 am
- Zip Code: 49120
51 Cub Maintenance
Hi All, I’ve a 1951 Farmall Cub that seems to run very well. I’ve had it for four seasons and have changed oil and filter twice. I’m looking for advice on anything I can do to keep it running well. I’ll use it this winter to plow. Very important this machine continues to run well. Any recommendations on things I should be considering would be great! Thinking spark plugs and flush and fill radiator next. All heavy oils like front trans and rear gear box oils replaced at least once.
A bit about its behavior here:
Starts and runs good under heavy load durations over 1.5 hours. When hot, always runs in the red on oil pressure gage. Won’t keep hydronic fluid pressure for longer than three weeks. Needs consistent refill. Don’t see leak just disappears and wondering if going to crank case. Not a problem for me other than cost but concerned it may do damage.
Any thoughts on essential maintenance I should be doing?
Thx all!
1cubnow
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- Tractors Owned: 1948 6v - Dozer
1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
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1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
1974 Horse II 12 v c-2
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130 with international 1000 loader 6 v
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Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: 51 Cub Maintenance
If it is running well I would not look for things to do. The most important thing to keep it running well is to start them and use them
I do not know if you have access to non-ethonel gas but I really do not. I use STA-BIL 360 Marine Ethanol Treatment and Fuel Stabilizer ( blue not the red) and I think that helps keep the carb in better shape along with seafoam in the gas.
If you use it in the winter I have started changing the trans oil in the fall. I have had water build up and lock up the trans right when I need to plow.
Learn to adjust the valves.
Any option is to get a second and third Cub as backups!
I do not know if you have access to non-ethonel gas but I really do not. I use STA-BIL 360 Marine Ethanol Treatment and Fuel Stabilizer ( blue not the red) and I think that helps keep the carb in better shape along with seafoam in the gas.
If you use it in the winter I have started changing the trans oil in the fall. I have had water build up and lock up the trans right when I need to plow.
Learn to adjust the valves.
Any option is to get a second and third Cub as backups!
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
- Don McCombs
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- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Re: 51 Cub Maintenance
The fact that you're losing hydraulic fluid on a consistent basis is problematic. If there are no signs of an external leak, it likely indicates that you have a leaking pump shaft o-ring seal. Replacing it isn't a difficult task, but does require draining the hydraulic system. Given your desire for top notch maintenance, it's something that should be done anyway, if you have not already done it. The proper pump shaft o-ring seal is a #112 buna-n o-ring. It should be available at an auto parts store, not in the big box plumbing department.
Here's a very good How-To on the Touch Control pump...
viewtopic.php?f=141&t=44196
Here's a very good How-To on the Touch Control pump...
viewtopic.php?f=141&t=44196
Last edited by Don McCombs on Tue Aug 30, 2022 7:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
- ricky racer
- 10+ Years
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- Location: Niles / Buchanan, Michigan
Re: 51 Cub Maintenance
I agree with Don, time to replace the hydraulic pump shaft seal. Outside of that, keeping all fluids in good shape and at proper levels is important. If you haven't already done it, the valve clearances should be checked and adjusted as needed. Make sure you grease the throw out bearing at least once or twice a year.
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
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Re: 51 Cub Maintenance
Hydraulic oil leaking into you engine oil (as Don mentioned above) needs to be addressed as soon as possible. That may also partially explain the low oil pressure when hot. Change the engine oil, again, when you do the pump repair. Hydraulic oil is thin compared to traditional motor oil. You have, apparently, filled the hydraulic oil several times, so your oil very diluted.
- Glen
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Re: 51 Cub Maintenance
Hi,
TM Tractor at the bottom of the page sells the Case IH rebuild kit for the Touch Control pump.
It comes with the o rings for the pump, gasket and o rings for the Touch Control tubes, and a gasket between the pump and the engine.
Below is the listing.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/288fp.htm
The How To that Don posted above is good, I would use that.
Below is pump info, if you need it.
2 of the 4 bolts in the Touch Control pump hold the pump onto the engine, the upper left, and lower right bolts, looking ahead from behind the pump.
You can loosen the other 2 bolts while the pump is on the engine, but don't remove them, so the pump doesn't fall apart, before you take it to a clean work bench.
Keep everything inside the pump clean.
Put new Case IH Hy-Tran fluid, or other brand approved fluid, on the parts inside the pump during assembly.
The pump shaft where the o ring runs has to be flat and in good condition. It may need smoothing with fine sandpaper.
Sometimes the shaft wears, and there is a groove. If there is a groove, it needs repair.
The pump drive gear has a special lock washer on it, to keep the nut from coming off.
You have to straighten the place on it that is bent over 1 of the flats of the nut, to unscrew the nut. Then when you are done, and put the nut on again, you have to bend 1 side of it over 1 of the flats of the nut.
The washer should have a tab that sticks into the keyway of the shaft, if the tab is broken, it needs a new lock washer. There is nothing to keep the washer and nut from turning without the tab on the lock washer.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new lock washer.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/562fp.htm
If the lock washer it has looks good, you can use it again.
Be sure there is a gasket between the pump and the engine.
Below is a page from the 1955 Cub operator's manual telling how to fill the fluid in the Touch Control, and remove the air from the system, after you repair the Touch Control.
Be sure to do what it says in paragraph 4 to remove the air from the system, the arms should go through their full travel 10 - 12 times.
Be sure to fill it the last time with the arms in the rear, or down position.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2064.jpg
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the Touch Control pump, showing the drive gear, nut, and lock washer.
TM Tractor at the bottom of the page sells the Case IH rebuild kit for the Touch Control pump.
It comes with the o rings for the pump, gasket and o rings for the Touch Control tubes, and a gasket between the pump and the engine.
Below is the listing.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/288fp.htm
The How To that Don posted above is good, I would use that.
Below is pump info, if you need it.
2 of the 4 bolts in the Touch Control pump hold the pump onto the engine, the upper left, and lower right bolts, looking ahead from behind the pump.
You can loosen the other 2 bolts while the pump is on the engine, but don't remove them, so the pump doesn't fall apart, before you take it to a clean work bench.
Keep everything inside the pump clean.
Put new Case IH Hy-Tran fluid, or other brand approved fluid, on the parts inside the pump during assembly.
The pump shaft where the o ring runs has to be flat and in good condition. It may need smoothing with fine sandpaper.
Sometimes the shaft wears, and there is a groove. If there is a groove, it needs repair.
The pump drive gear has a special lock washer on it, to keep the nut from coming off.
You have to straighten the place on it that is bent over 1 of the flats of the nut, to unscrew the nut. Then when you are done, and put the nut on again, you have to bend 1 side of it over 1 of the flats of the nut.
The washer should have a tab that sticks into the keyway of the shaft, if the tab is broken, it needs a new lock washer. There is nothing to keep the washer and nut from turning without the tab on the lock washer.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new lock washer.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/562fp.htm
If the lock washer it has looks good, you can use it again.
Be sure there is a gasket between the pump and the engine.
Below is a page from the 1955 Cub operator's manual telling how to fill the fluid in the Touch Control, and remove the air from the system, after you repair the Touch Control.
Be sure to do what it says in paragraph 4 to remove the air from the system, the arms should go through their full travel 10 - 12 times.
Be sure to fill it the last time with the arms in the rear, or down position.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2064.jpg
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the Touch Control pump, showing the drive gear, nut, and lock washer.
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- 501 Club
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Yanmar YM186 (non running)
1952 Farmall Cub - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Greenwood County SC
Re: 51 Cub Maintenance
1cubnow wrote::tractor:
Hi All, I’ve a 1951 Farmall Cub that seems to run very well. I’ve had it for four seasons and have changed oil and filter twice. I’m looking for advice on anything I can do to keep it running well. I’ll use it this winter to plow. Very important this machine continues to run well. Any recommendations on things I should be considering would be great! Thinking spark plugs and flush and fill radiator next. All heavy oils like front trans and rear gear box oils replaced at least once.
A bit about its behavior here:
Starts and runs good under heavy load durations over 1.5 hours. When hot, always runs in the red on oil pressure gage. Won’t keep hydronic fluid pressure for longer than three weeks. Needs consistent refill. Don’t see leak just disappears and wondering if going to crank case. Not a problem for me other than cost but concerned it may do damage.
Any thoughts on essential maintenance I should be doing?
Thx all!
1cubnow
Is your hydraulic fluid level going down? If so it probably is leaking into the oil. If the hydros just leak down but it's never low on hydro oil it's just bypassing internally.
If you want you could pull the oil pan and look at the bearings. You could slap a new set in it to see if that helps the oil pressure, that's a bandaid back yard type fix but if it helps hey it helps. The real issue is probably excess bearing clearances and it would need a rebuild, but what I suggested won't take much time and won't cost much .
- Dale Finch
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Re: 51 Cub Maintenance
If you look in the Owner's Manual (link to the manuals in upper left corner), there is an entire illustrated section on periodic maintenance/lubrication with frequencies for each item.
A couple often missed or neglected items (in addition to the ones mentioned above:
1. Oil fan hub
2. Drain/flush transmission & refill to PROPER level...if overfilled, common to cause leaking seals with subsequent brake problems.
3. Check wheel rim/weight/hub bolts for tightness
4. Check steering gear oil & ensure fill plug vent hole is clear
5. Clean air cleaner oil cup & refill.
But really...it is ALL there listed in the manual, and you'll feel more confident if you go through all the items!
This is one of several editions of the Owner's Manual... Lubrication Section starts on pg 60.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Owner's%20Manuals/International%20Cub%20and%20Cub%20Lo-boy%20Tractors%20Operators%20Manual%202-75/International%20Cub%20and%20Cub%20Lo-boy%20Tractors%20Operators%20Manual%202-75.htm
A couple often missed or neglected items (in addition to the ones mentioned above:
1. Oil fan hub
2. Drain/flush transmission & refill to PROPER level...if overfilled, common to cause leaking seals with subsequent brake problems.
3. Check wheel rim/weight/hub bolts for tightness
4. Check steering gear oil & ensure fill plug vent hole is clear
5. Clean air cleaner oil cup & refill.
But really...it is ALL there listed in the manual, and you'll feel more confident if you go through all the items!
This is one of several editions of the Owner's Manual... Lubrication Section starts on pg 60.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Owner's%20Manuals/International%20Cub%20and%20Cub%20Lo-boy%20Tractors%20Operators%20Manual%202-75/International%20Cub%20and%20Cub%20Lo-boy%20Tractors%20Operators%20Manual%202-75.htm
- Mike in Louisiana
- 10+ Years
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Re: 51 Cub Maintenance
Mike in Louisiana wrote:1cubnow wrote::tractor:
Hi All, I’ve a 1951 Farmall Cub that seems to run very well. I’ve had it for four seasons and have changed oil and filter twice. I’m looking for advice on anything I can do to keep it running well. I’ll use it this winter to plow. Very important this machine continues to run well. Any recommendations on things I should be considering would be great! Thinking spark plugs and flush and fill radiator next. All heavy oils like front trans and rear gear box oils replaced at least once
Any thoughts on essential maintenance I should be doing?
Thx all!
1cubnow
Three places that get missed often are.
Remove plugs on distributor insert zerk fitting and grease once a year
Oil the two caps on generator
Check gear oil in the pans on the final drives.
1975 cub (LouAnn) serial # 245946, 1941 John Deere Model H
Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers
Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers
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- Zip Code: 49120
Re: 51 Cub Maintenance
Hey thanks guys for all the advice on this! Really appreciate your help here. Time to get busy!
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Re: 51 Cub Maintenance
And. If you haven't flushed the cooling system, do so. Search this site for a flushing tool and how to. Be sure to clean/flush the engine block and bolster.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: 51 Cub Maintenance
Clean your points before cold weather sets in and you don't want to.
Have spare ignition parts.
If you change your pugs that don't need changing , keep the old ones. If picky , label them by the cylinders they came out of.
Are you gaining oil in your crankcase as hydraulic fluid disappears? Then you found where hydraulic fluid is going.
I had seal replaced twice. Then another pump that looked good,
Still leaking into crankcase.
Got annoyed and put the same diesel oil in my hydraulics as in crankcase. When it gets too much oil in crankcase I pull some out with the suction gun (looks like a grease gun body).
Then add some to hydraulics.
IF you've run it in prior winters you know it's sweet spot to start it in cold weather.
If not , be patient and learn what it wants to fire up. It may be different than fair weather.
Keep your battery charged and happy. Might double check for clean connections of starter lead , and ground before it's cold out..
You are a couple hours South of me but still , when it's going to be bitter cold set on that battery like a momma hen. Well don't literally set on it. But keep it reasonably protected from the cold.
Any weakness in warm weather from your ignition is not likely to improve in cold. Except maybe a coil that gets too hot fast...
Have spare ignition parts.
If you change your pugs that don't need changing , keep the old ones. If picky , label them by the cylinders they came out of.
Are you gaining oil in your crankcase as hydraulic fluid disappears? Then you found where hydraulic fluid is going.
I had seal replaced twice. Then another pump that looked good,
Still leaking into crankcase.
Got annoyed and put the same diesel oil in my hydraulics as in crankcase. When it gets too much oil in crankcase I pull some out with the suction gun (looks like a grease gun body).
Then add some to hydraulics.
IF you've run it in prior winters you know it's sweet spot to start it in cold weather.
If not , be patient and learn what it wants to fire up. It may be different than fair weather.
Keep your battery charged and happy. Might double check for clean connections of starter lead , and ground before it's cold out..
You are a couple hours South of me but still , when it's going to be bitter cold set on that battery like a momma hen. Well don't literally set on it. But keep it reasonably protected from the cold.
Any weakness in warm weather from your ignition is not likely to improve in cold. Except maybe a coil that gets too hot fast...
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