No spark after replacing points/condensor

[Greg]

hello again,

I have 1950 Cub with J4 Magneto ignition. Recently replaced points (set to 0.013") and condenser. Now no start/no spark. I did NOT remove the magneto. Two concerns: 1) the lug that goes to kill switch appears grounded when the wire that goes "inside" magneto is attached to the lug. When all wires are off the lug, it is not grounded. Kill switch operates properly. It is only grounded when I attach the wire that goes 'inside'. I'm not sure where this wire goes, as I don't want to take magneto off unless necessary.

2) when I was setting the points, I had to rotate engine by hand to get to high spot on the distributor shaft. I did not take rotor off the distributor body (this is the name in the manual). I know there is an internal gear in the distributor body. Could the timing have been affected even though I didn't remove magneto from engine?

Thanks,

Greg

[Greg]

After having a bite for lunch I attacked this problem again. I checked the timing (#1 at TDC, timing marks aligned) and the rotor was pointing to #1 tower of the cap. I mis-spoke earlier, the lug on the side is not grounded out when the small wire going to the coil is attached-- it shows a few ohms. I have changed points for over 50 years and never had a problem like this. Any help is appreciated.

[Eugene]

The lug on the side is not grounded out when the small wire going to the coil is attached-- it shows a few ohms.

Check again with the points open.

Clean the coating on new points?

[Glen]

2) when I was setting the points, I had to rotate engine by hand to get to high spot on the distributor shaft. I did not take rotor off the distributor body (this is the name in the manual). I know there is an internal gear in the distributor body. Could the timing have been affected even though I didn't remove magneto from engine?

Hi,
Thanks for explaining what you have done to the magneto.

I'm not sure if you meant you turned the engine with the distributor body off the magneto.

The timing should be ok if you didn't remove the distributor body when turning the engine, if the timing was ok before.

You can lose the timing turning the engine too much with the distributor body off the magneto.
If you have to turn the magneto some to get the right side point on the high part of the cam, you need to keep track of how the shaft is turning, and turn the rotor the same amount, so the D shaped shaft will go in the D shaped hole.
Or you can put the body on without the screws, if it will stay in place, turn the engine slightly with the fan, and remove the body and see if the point is on the high place of the cam.
Repeat again if needed until it is on the high place of the cam.
Then you won't lose what position the rotor should be in.

Here is a possible answer to your question about why it won't run.
They have said on here that some new points have a coating on them, probably to prevent corrosion when they are sitting.
Use a point file, and file them some and remove the coating, if they have it.
Wipe all sanding off the points with a clean rag.

[IHPWR]

I had similar issue on my sons old truck. Replaced entire ignition system with new and no spark. The condenser was bad off the shelf. I bypassed condenser and had spark. Went back to auto store, got another condenser and all was good. Just something to consider. I am used to having new parts work, but it obviously happens sometimes

[Greg]

Thanks for the replies, I have now checked my timing and I'm ok. I did remove the distributor body from the magneto, leaving the magneto on the engine- rotated engine and my rotor was no longer in the proper position- but now I'm ok on that.

I'll try cleaning the points, and if that doesn't work I'll put the old condenser back in and see what happens.

[Greg]

Eugene,

With the points open it shows a few ohms, I was expecting infinity (open circuit), but I guess there will be something going thru the coil- showing some resistance.

[inairam]

where did you get the points and condenser? I have had a lot of issues with ignition parts from the tractor websites even the OEM ones. I started using the napa parts I had parts from the tractor sites DOA out of the box. You can notice differences in the points.

NAPA parts number

Distributor Cap
Part # ECH IH350
Distributor Condenser
Part # ECH IH200
Contact Set (Points) - Magneto - Ag
Part # ECH CS1600

the rotor is for the distributor not the mag
Distributor Rotor
Part # ECH IH300

[Greg]

Inairam,

I did buy them online, I can't recall who at this time. I agree with you that I find NAPA parts to be good- thanks for the part numbers, I might have to go buy them.

Greg

[Greg]

And the ANSWER IS....

I was rechecking the point gap and noticed the fixed contact was wiggling in its holder, so I put my old points in. Still no spark. I then put the old condenser back in and lo and behold it started right up. So.... bad condenser, but also lousy points. I bought these from Brillman company, quite disappointed.

Unfortunately, I'm still left with my previous problem of Cub dying after it gets hot...

Many thanks to all who made suggestions and congratulations to the winners who suggested bad new parts!!

[Don McCombs]

I would be more disappointed with the manufacturer than the retailer. I would definitely let John know about both, though.

[Glen]

Hi,
Good that you got the engine to run.

I think someone said on here that the base of the fixed point, the point on the left, was too wide to fit in the slot correctly, he filed the metal of the point narrower and it fit in.
Maybe that is what you have, I don't know.

If the engine stops after getting warm, it could be the condenser needs replacing, or the coil needs replacing.
It is common for the old original coils to quit when warm, then they work again when cool.

TM Tractor has the points and condenser, but maybe the place you bought them will replace them.
The NAPA points worked good in the past when I used them.

TM Tractor has a new magneto coil, below is the listing.
The coil has a rectangular bar through it, for the mounting, save it and use it in the new coil.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/713fp.htm

[cavingreer]

Dying after getting hot is very often the coil

[Jimmler]

NAPA seems to be pretty proud of their parts these days. Here's the pricing at my local store:
IH350 cap - $21.19
IH200 condenser - $28.99 Can that possibly be correct??
CS1600 points - $22.69 Ouch!

By the time you add plugs, an ignition tune up for a Cub is gonna be close to $100.

[Bob McCarty]

By the time you add plugs, an ignition tune up for a Cub is gonna be close to $100.

TM's prices look like they are quite a bit lower....