Sick to my stomach

[Joeandmack]

After learning to use taps and dyes the manifold was all fixed up, primed and back on the cub. I was putting the hood back on to fire it up and to drive it into the garage and finish up my work there, when I think I nailed my foot to the floor. I screwed the bolts that hold the hood on to the radiator supports in too far and started to see coolant leaking. Ive taken the supports off and see a number of little pin holes thanks to me augering right in (no cussing occurred but I was sick to my stomach). Would slathering JB weld in there be a possible fix? Or should I fill the hole with solder and hope I close the pin holes (never soldered before by the way)? I know I could buy a new radiator or take it to a shop, but it seems I might be making more work for myself each time I take something off not looking to break the bank either. Appreciate any help or advice.

[Eugene]

Soldering would be fast and efficient, depending on the hole size. Decent sized soldering iron, solder, flux, sand paper, $35- range. Really don't know the current price, inflation.

Not a lot of practice to be able to solder. And you should be able to do it without removing the radiator.

[Dale Finch]

If you have a decent radiator shop (almost extinct nowadays!), and a trailer, you might try taking it to a shop.

Or maybe a friend who is a plumber, and already has the tools and skill to solder it.

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub parts manual says the bolts holding the hood on at the front are 5/16" bolts, x 1/2 inch long, coarse threads, with lock washers. They can't be too long, the radiator is there.

[Joeandmack]

Yes Glen I think I confirmed the radiator was there. Leaning towards using JB weld, but a good argument could sway me to shell out the extra dollars and solder instead. Regardless once I think I have patched my blundering error, I was thinking of testing it with water before putting antifreeze in. I have a bunch of dust covered Gallons of Poland Spring jugs in the cellar, would that be fine to run through the radiator to check for leaks, or should I use distilled water? I am going to test it and then fill it with coolant if I can fix it, so the water won’t be in long regardless. If I can’t fix it then it’ll be comparing the cost of the nearest radiator shop to a new radiator. I’ll make sure to use a half inch 5/16 bolt the second time around….insert grumbles about the hood attachment here…. Appreciate the advice and patience you all have for this greenhorn nimrod.

[Bob McCarty]

Any water would be fine for testing. You just want to premix antifreeze 50/50 when you mount it as the Cub doesn't have a water pump and a thermosyphon system is not great for mixing water and full strength antifreeze.

[Dale Finch]

I ALMOST did the same thing on my 1st cub! The only thing that saved me was that I hit the fins & heard the crunching noise before I punctured the tubes!

[NJ Farmer]

I would solder the repair….not saying JB Weld can’t hold up the repair however the constant heat cycle can cause the material to break down over time. A little solder and flux the repair can be quicker than removing the hood!

NJ farmer

You’ll never make that mistake EVER again….don’t worry we have all been there but some of us will never admit!

[SamsFarm]

I would try and solder if I could.

I use a propane torch for my soldering.

Same torch I use if I am going to sweat copper pipes!

Gotta use flux too. The same kind that is used for copper pipes works great!

Ps.
Dont buy the water based flux, it is not very forgiving to being overheated. Get the petroleum based flux!

[Joeandmack]

Thank you everybody. You all convinced me to solder it. Picked up a torch, solder and flux this morning. Practiced on some odds and ends to get a hang for it. You all are right it isn’t that hard. And I think it will be more precise than JB weld would have been. I poured water in the radiator and watched it seep out appears to only be on the drivers right side on the inside of the first vertical tube. I didn’t see any water weeping on the left. Hope to find the holes tomorrow.

[bofahs]

Well, you're doing the right thing. Now, first things first - CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN is the secret to excellent soldering. On this job, a little pad of Scotch-Brite would be perfect for cleaning.

Then, a little touch of Stay Clean flux - just where you want the solder to be. Heat the spot where the hole is, and the tip of the solder at the same time. Just as the solder starts to melt, touch it to the hole and then pull the torch and solder away. Should flow over the spot and fix it.

Best of luck!

[phill_mi]

I would also drain the coolant down away from the point to be soldered so that it does not absorb the heat which is needed for a proper soldered solution. Agree with Clean, Clean, Clean for any soldering project!