Looking at my first Cub

[IHCubCadet147]

My neighbor found me a deal on a Farmall Cub a guy he knows is selling. He first told me about it in July, then I never heard anything else until last week. It is at a dairy farm that I drive by everyday, I never knew it was in the barn. It has been on the farm since it was new, but the property it’s on was split up at one time, and the tractor stayed with it. I looked up the serial number on here, it’s a 1950. The guy said it ran great, he mowed with it for years. He drove it to where it sits, so it shouldn’t need too much work to get it running. The only reason he stopped using it was because he got a good deal on a newer Lo Boy for mowing. It comes with everything in the pictures, plus a snow plow, gang reel mower, and a big lime spreader.

He’s asking $2500, I think he would take $2000. Is that fair, or too high? I know it’s hard to put a value on things like this, just want an idea. I’m mainly into garden tractors, this would be my first bigger one. Any advice would be appreciated.

[IHCubCadet147]

[indy61]

I think it's an early 1948. Price seems fair with all it includes as long as the engine is not worn out.

[lowgearfarm]

If you have a place to keep the tractor, have the cash to buy it, and have the desire to work on one of the best machines the world has ever known, I'd say go for it. This forum can steer you toward all the technical information you'll need to bring her back to a productive life. Lucky you.

[ricky racer]

That's definitely at the top of the price range if you ask me. If the seller want's top dollar, he should have it running and fully operational. If you are buying it as a non-runner, I wouldn't offer more than $1500 and that is due to the implements included. There's just too many issues a non-running tractor can hide. If I buy a non-running tractor, I have to price it as a parts tractor because you never know what you will find once it gets running or what it will cost to get it running. It is a nice looking tractor though...
If he won't move on the price, I would only agree to it if you or the seller can get it operational before you seal the deal.

[Bill V in Md]

As indy61 stated, that serial number would be an early 48 cub, but that style serial plate didn't come out until sometime in the early 50's. Could be that the original plate was replaced with the later design, but the original serial number was stamped onto it. Assuming the engine can be turned over. that looks like a fair price based on the number of implements included.

[Gary Dotson]

Keep in mind that if you can’t hear it run and drive it, there are a ton of things you’re taking a chance on. Will the engine run well or will it smoke like a freight train and run like crap? Do you even know if it will turn? Will the transmission and final drives work well, without sounding like they’re grinding hickory nuts? Will the touch control work properly or is all it’s oil in the engine crankcase.? Your pics. are pretty poor so it’s difficult to judge much from them. It includes some decent implements but it’s still a non-runner and must be treated as such. Now, if the seller would get it running, it would be whole different deal.

Edit, Ricky is faster than me! On the serial plate, I think there is a 1 at the end that doesn’t show well in the pic.

[Barnyard]

...I think there is a 1 at the end that doesn’t show well in the pic.

I agree with Gary, that is definitely a 1 at the end of the serial number. It also has a short ear dash which didn't come out until later in 1949.

[IHCubCadet147]

Thanks for the quick replies guys. I will take that all into account when I make an offer. I know the pictures aren’t great. I didn’t take them, my neighbor did when he was there looking at something else the guy was selling. I should have got better ones when I was there. The owner said it ran great, he seemed honest, but you never know. Being 70+ years old, I would expect it to need some work. He said the only reason he came up with that number was because someone offered that to him years ago, but he said make an offer, so I will.

[Waif]

A lot of grief can be avoided by applying a good dose of patience when wanting to revive /restart an old engine and equipment.
Regardless of if it is you or the current owner.
You want lube on anything you're going to try to move. From engine oil galleries to all moving parts of implements where they should be lubed.
Might as well very carefully look over ignition components that could be cruddy as well before trying to start it. The ignition points at least.

You can check the oil condition and lubes as it sits. Which will only tell you thier condition and maybe how much water or metal particles.
IF buying , ask if the owner ran detergent or nondetergent oil. And duplicate that to start till you clean the oil system before switching to detergent. IF he ran nondetergent and you don't want to.

Now you can inspect castings for cracks , and bolt holes for galling or stripped holes. Engine corners where secured get an extra squint.
Radiator bolster gets a suspicious inspection.

If the tractor has a handcrank , "feel" the pully slots it fits in for broken ear or ears. Don't crank it till you know proper procedure and where you thumb belongs ; and oil is involved where it should be. You don't want to scrub dry metal against dry metal internally.
(The time it has sat has allowed oil to drain off and from areas you want oil to be.)
Valves can be expected to be dry.

I could use that loose rear tire! l.o.l...

An offer from me might involve either a discount for a nonrunner , or contingent upon my getting it running without undue effort / time/ money first.
i'd have to know the seller awful well or have a written permission to work on the tractor. It fails due to it's condition before I touched it ; I wouldn't want a finger pointed at me.

[SONNY]

I agree with Ricky! ---awful high for non running unit! --Granted the implements are worth more than the tractor but still kinda high!

[indy61]

Looks like it might be a nice original condition tractor, hard to tell from the tiny pics. That rear light is rare in good condition and the data tag looks very good for it's age. Might be a low hour well kept Cub.

[ricky racer]

Prior to starting the Cub, since it has set so long, make sure you or the seller primes the oil pump. A Cub's oil pump can loose its prime setting a long time and that will starve the engine of any lubrication upon start up. To prime the oil pump simply pull the oil filter housing cap off of the filter canister (you might as well pull the filter out while you prime it for easier access). In the back of the housing there's a small hole (approx. 3/8" in dia.) near the top of the canister. Using a pump style oil can, pump quite a bit of oil into that hole. The oil will travel down to the oil pump and prime the pump. Reinstall the filter, gasket and cap and try starting it.

[IHCubCadet147]

Thanks for the great advice guys, I appreciate it. I flipped the pictures right side up and made them bigger so they should be easier to see now.

[Don McCombs]

Judging by the photos, one of your first expenses will likely be a complete set of four tires. Factor that into your offering price.