Not so new to the group

[Hoopy]

Greeting. My last post was in 2004. Speaks to the reliability of a cub, and not my mechanical ability.

My cub is a 1950 (serial number 101890). I purchase it without a generator and have been operating it as such ever since.
Having watched one of Rachel's great U tube videos and this being January, I decided to engage in some overdo maintenance/upgrades.
Not wanting to buy new, I have a used generator and cutout arriving soon.
I believe my vintage of cub came with a generator, a cutout/ relay and a 4 position switch.
My generator-less cub has a 3 position switch which leads me to believe it had at one point a volt regulator, perhaps itself upgraded by the pervious owner.
My question: should I hook up a generator with a cut out to a 3 position switch? Or should I match the cutout to a 4 position switch or match the 3 position switch to a volt regulator? Your input would be valued.

Next, I find the various wiring harnesses sold on line expensive. Are they worth it or should I build my own with 10 and 14 g wire?

Thanks,

John

[Don McCombs]

Welcome back. I'd be careful about putting too much reliance on Rachel's videos. They are full of inaccuracies.

[Barnyard]

Brillman makes a good wiring harness. However, making your own will save you a little money depending on if you want originality or something just to get you by. I agree with Don's comment on Rachel. Her recommendation to drill a hole in the bottom of a carb for idle tube replacement was not good advice.

[Eugene]

Brillman makes a good wiring harness. However, making your own will save you a little money depending on if you want originality or something just to get you by.

If you don't use the lights or wire them up you can save a fair amount by doing the wiring yourself.

Wiring harnes comes with a wiring diagram. Easier to install.

I would have installed a 12 volt single wire alternator.

[Jim Becker]

You are correct, at that serial number it would have originally had a cut-out and a 4 position switch. As a point of clarification, 4 positions on the switch includes the off positions. It will click 3 times turning it from one extreme to the other. If you have a 3 position switch and a cut-out, you will loose operator control over the charge rate. Depending on how you use the tractor, grounding the generator field at the generator may be an acceptable option. The main thing is to make sure all connections (and grounds!) are clean and secure with whatever components you use.

Do you have a magneto or battery ignition? With a magneto, I'm not sure if you would have mounting interference between it and a voltage regulator.

The wiring harness is a matter of choice. The early harness only has about 4 wires, not hard to do yourself. On the other hand, with 2 wire gauges and a preference for not duplicating wire colors, you end up with a roll of wire for each of the 4. Add in connectors etc. and you may not be saving much vs. the cost of buying.

[SamsFarm]

Greeting. My last post was in 2004

Thats quite a span between posts.

[Hoopy]

You are correct, at that serial number it would have originally had a cut-out and a 4 position switch. As a point of clarification, 4 positions on the switch includes the off positions. It will click 3 times turning it from one extreme to the other. If you have a 3 position switch and a cut-out, you will loose operator control over the charge rate. Depending on how you use the tractor, grounding the generator field at the generator may be an acceptable option. The main thing is to make sure all connections (and grounds!) are clean and secure with whatever components you use.

Do you have a magneto or battery ignition? With a magneto, I'm not sure if you would have mounting interference between it and a voltage regulator.

The wiring harness is a matter of choice. The early harness only has about 4 wires, not hard to do yourself. On the other hand, with 2 wire gauges and a preference for not duplicating wire colors, you end up with a roll of wire for each of the 4. Add in connectors etc. and you may not be saving much vs. the cost of buying.

First, I do have a magneto.
Next, if I understand your comment, proceeding with a 3 position switch and a cutout I would need to turn the switch (O,D, B) to dim or bright periodically to engage the generator and charge the battery. Is that accurate?

[Hoopy]

You are correct, at that serial number it would have originally had a cut-out and a 4 position switch. As a point of clarification, 4 positions on the switch includes the off positions. It will click 3 times turning it from one extreme to the other. If you have a 3 position switch and a cut-out, you will loose operator control over the charge rate. Depending on how you use the tractor, grounding the generator field at the generator may be an acceptable option. The main thing is to make sure all connections (and grounds!) are clean and secure with whatever components you use.

Do you have a magneto or battery ignition? With a magneto, I'm not sure if you would have mounting interference between it and a voltage regulator.

The wiring harness is a matter of choice. The early harness only has about 4 wires, not hard to do yourself. On the other hand, with 2 wire gauges and a preference for not duplicating wire colors, you end up with a roll of wire for each of the 4. Add in connectors etc. and you may not be saving much vs. the cost of buying.

Based on your thorough comments, I re-examined the switch and it is a 4 position unit. So with my new-to me generator and cut-out which arrived today, I am ready to get the lights working-- after I buy a new light bulb which I blew out with a 12 volt automotive tester.

[Glen]

Hi,
IH used the 4 position charge and light switch with the cutout, or Relay, IH called it, system. The Relay is on top of the generator, up to Cub serial number 115403.
The switch positions are L H D B. Low charge, High charge, Dim front lights, Bright lights.
You have to choose the charge rate yourself.
How to use the switch is in the 1950 Cub owner's manual, in the electrical section.

The 3 position switch was used with the voltage regulator system, serial number 115403 and above, up to serial number 210000.
The switch is for only the lights.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the back of the 4 position switch, the 3 position switch is different.
Below is a wiring diagram for the Relay system, if you need it.

[Hoopy]

Thanks for the wiring diagram

[k hutchins]

I have 2 '48 cubs that l made wiring harnesses for. Fairly easy to do using the diagram that Glen posted. Nothing against those that you can buy except price and time. It probably took me less than 3 hrs to make one and l found that the wire end connectors that have the "shrinkable" insulation sleeves were great. Just crimp, hit it with a lighter and move on.

Good luck with your project.