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New to the farmall cub life
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- Posts: 1
- Joined: Fri Nov 03, 2023 6:56 pm
- Zip Code: 06424
New to the farmall cub life
Hello. New to the forum. Have had a 1949 cub with bucket for about a year. Has been running great. Then after heavy rain will no longer even turnover. I replaced wire harness due to several areas of bare wire. Not sure where to go from here. Bit of a newbie so bear with me. Thanks
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- 5+ Years
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Re: New to the farmall cub life
Sounds like it might just be a bad battery.
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1957 F-Cub
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Re: New to the farmall cub life
Connections….electrical connections must be clean and corrosion free. I like to clean all my connections wire brush and the coat (rub over) with a dielectric grease like Dow Corning DC-4 or something equivalent to electrical grease.
A continuity testor is your best friend to find out your electrical problems. The wiring diagram is pretty simple just go through the system step by step.
A continuity testor is your best friend to find out your electrical problems. The wiring diagram is pretty simple just go through the system step by step.
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- Team Cub Mentor
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53 Cockshutt 20 restored (Shooter)
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49 Leader "D" (Princess)
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Kubota B6200E
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Re: New to the farmall cub life
I would first suspect battery and battery cables. A 6 volt system requires an excellent current path. Welcome to the forum!
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- 5+ Years
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- Tractors Owned: 1948 6v - Dozer
1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
1950 with plow, 54 blade, mott mag 6v - Roxanne
1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
1974 Horse II 12 v c-2
1975 with woods 42-6 12 v - Horse
1979 long strip 12 v stuck engine
130 with international 1000 loader 6 v
1969 140 with bush hog tow behind mower 12 v
Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: New to the farmall cub life
in addition to the cables I sometimes have an issue with the pull lever switch on the older cubs If the cables are ok and If it will not kick at all I would try moving the lever, push or pull the top of the lever so the bottom is on a different spot on the button, and see if it kicks.
If it does consider a new switch
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/2543fp.htm
If it does consider a new switch
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/2543fp.htm
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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"John", 1952 Cub
"Paul", 1951 Cub
"George", 1958 LoBoy Cub with Wagner 45 Loader
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So far, Paul and Ringo have arrived. John and George were supposed to follow ages ago, but apparently have gone awol. Long story. - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: New to the farmall cub life
As you are checking and rechecking the wiring and connections, pay special attention to grounds. Where does your battery ground to? It was originally to the flimsy sheet metal battery box. The connection from the battery box to the floor pan gets notoriously cruddy, and even the connection from the floor pan to the big castings can get degraded.
A lot of us move the ground cable attachment to a bolt on the transmission housing to bypass those unreliable trouble spots.
Beyond that, You can do a voltage drop test to pinpoint exactly what connection is causing you trouble.
You can also use a pair of jumper cables to get yourself started in a pinch. Just jump the starter directly off the battery (making sure you’re paying attention to polarity: 6v is almost always positive ground, 12v negative ground).
Even if you have a connection that doesn’t want to pass enough current to turn the starter, it will probably pass enough to keep it running once started.
If these tricks don’t work, you have more troubleshooting to do.
Edit: also, if you just replaced the wiring, are the battery cables the right size? Battery cables for 6v have to be a lot bigger than battery cables for 12v.
A lot of us move the ground cable attachment to a bolt on the transmission housing to bypass those unreliable trouble spots.
Beyond that, You can do a voltage drop test to pinpoint exactly what connection is causing you trouble.
You can also use a pair of jumper cables to get yourself started in a pinch. Just jump the starter directly off the battery (making sure you’re paying attention to polarity: 6v is almost always positive ground, 12v negative ground).
Even if you have a connection that doesn’t want to pass enough current to turn the starter, it will probably pass enough to keep it running once started.
If these tricks don’t work, you have more troubleshooting to do.
Edit: also, if you just replaced the wiring, are the battery cables the right size? Battery cables for 6v have to be a lot bigger than battery cables for 12v.
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