Replaced points/condenser now no start

[Clubless]

Replaced points and condenser on my 1950 6v magneto tractor and now will not start. I did not remove mag to put new parts in. Tractor would start prior to replacing parts, but would only run for maybe 20 seconds. Carburetor is good (borrowed from running tractor) and have good spark to plugs (using inline test light).

Prior to removing rotor cap, I turned crankshaft mark to align with pointer. I did not determine if it was on #1 at TDC. Then I removed rotor cap, removed rotor and pinion gear and on to the points. After replacing points and putting the rotor back in back in place I accidentally dislodged the pinion gear. I replaced the gear making sure to align marks on rotor and pinion gear. Rotor is pointing straight up.

Did I mess up timing by not making sure it was at TDC prior to replacing parts?

[Glen]

Hi,
You could have lost the timing, it's better to turn the engine to number 1 cylinder TDC before removing the cover over the points.
If you put the cover over the points on without turning the rotor pinion gear, or the shaft 1 full turn, the timing should be ok.
You have to watch when the cover is removed how much you turn either the gear or the shaft, and watch which direction they turned, so you don't lose the timing.
The D shaped hole in the gear, and the D shaped shaft only fit together in 1 position, but if you turn one of them a full turn, the timing will be wrong.
I would turn the engine to number 1 TDC.
Below is a page from the 1950 Cub owner's manual telling how to find number 1 TDC at paragraph 2 on the page. Use only paragraph 2.
https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... e%2032.jpg

After finding number 1 TDC, look at where the rotor is turned. Number 1 is originally the top position on the cap.

[Clubless]

Glen, thanks for your respond.

I did not rotate the engine at any time during the parts replacement process, so I thought I would not lose timing. The rotor was pointing straight-up when I first removed the rotor cap to begin the process. The rotor pinion gear mark is aligned with the mark on the rotor and is pointing straight-up.

My going forward plan is to remove hood, mount pony tank, check compression and check for good (blue) spark at the spark plug. Also, will rotate engine to #1 at TDC and check position of rotor and pinion gear.

Can you add anything else I should add to my plan?

[Glen]

You don't need to remove the hood to do the things you said above. You can work up under the left side to get to the spark plugs. I use a 3/8" ratchet and a deep socket up under the hood. Wear gloves.
Yes check the spark to see if it is blue or white.
Check the point gap, it's .013" for the magneto.
They have said on here that some new points have a clear coating on them to prevent corrosion, I guess.
Power won't go through the coating. If it is there, remove it using a flat file.
The condenser could be defective, and not work. You could put in a different condenser and try it.

[Eugene]

The condenser could be defective, and not work. You could put in a different condenser and try it.

20 second run time, condenser my first thought.

[k hutchins]

I would suggest that you lost your timing by not making sure you had #1 at TDC. I had mine 180° out of time once.

Other than dressing the points as Glen suggested, if it were me, l'd start from the beginning and go through the static timing steps. Basics first before looking for problems that may not exist. Many of us on here have started chasing ghosts, and wound up diving into a rabbit hole when the real problem ended up being something very basic.

Good luck

[Clubless]

When you were out by 180 would it try to run at all?

[Eugene]

When you were out by 180 would it try to run at all?

You may get a backfire out the carburetor. It's not going to try to run.

[Clubless]

I’m not even getting a backfire. It just spins the engine, I shot starting fluid in carb and didn’t get anything at all.

[Super A]

I had a new set of points once that wouldn't fire. They had a glaze/coating on them. Once I filed them they worked.

Al

[inairam]

I started using NAPA for my ignition parts about 3-4 years ago.

points ECH CS1600
Condenser ECH IH200

The points definitely look different and do not have that coating on them.

I had been having a lot of problems with points and condensers from the tractor websites.

[Clubless]

Thanks everyone for your input. Did not work on tractor today so no update. Plan to get after it tomorrow.

[Clubless]

Hi All,

Worked on tractor today with success. Removed #1 spark-plug, put my finger in plug hole and rotated engine until I felt the cylinder build compression. Crankshaft notch was aligned with pointer. Removed magneto cap to check position of rotor and pinion gear. Rotor was pointing to about 5 o'clock and pinion gear about 7 o'clock. Removed and positioned rotor to 12 o'clock and aligned pinion gear with mark on rotor. Replaced magneto cap. When I removed the #1 spark-plug it was badly fouled so I cleaned up all 4 plugs before moving on.

Pulled out starter switch, pulled starter rod and it fired right up . After taking the flat right rear tire to our farm tire shop for a tube replacement, I drove tractor around the yard for 15-20 minutes without issue. This cub has been sitting for year due starting/running issues so now I will need to address a carburetor issue and perform a number of the checklist items found on "What to do with a Cub you just brought home".

I want to thank everyone for your input to help me get my cub running again! I would not have been successful otherwise.

Lesson learned: Put #1 cylinder at TDC before messing with distributor/magneto innards.

[tst]

need to set the timing now that you have it running and see if the advance is working in the distributor

[Glen]

Good that you got the Cub to run.

Tim, the Cub has a magneto, from what he said above.
There are no timing advance weights in a Cub magneto.