Torque Wrench Final Drive Rebuild

[paul4168]

My first mistake was to check the bearing load thinking the load was suppossed to be in foot per pound rather than inches per pound.

My new problem is that I can't find anyone in raleigh who stocks an inches per pound torque wrench? I called several napas car quest autozone bicycle shops...da da da da...the closest I got was I had one last week but I sold it.

I know the bearings are not too tight...I want to check to be sure...should I go through the trouble of ordering online or should I just let it fly!

[Bigdog]

1 Foot-Pound = 12 Inch-Pounds Just do a conversion.

[paul4168]

yes conversion---the bottom reading of my torque wrench is 120 inches per pound...I can't accurately measure---I've got a lead on one that may be close but not perfect...to do the job you really want a 0-60 inch per pound range torque wrench one is sold by Park tool, but no one has one in stock.

[Davesaver]

Do you have a Sears store nearby they sell a 3/8 drive 25-250 inch lb wrench.


DaveL

[Joe Howard]

I can't imagine the torque could be that critical; I'd do very much what used to be done with the Timken bearings on an automobile (if they are the Timken cone and cup type which I'm reasonably sure they are). Come in with the torque while turning the bearing and you'll feel when it starts to tighten up; back up until no resistance is felt and then back in just a hair and you should be on the money. Probably should have just a very little bit of preload. It isn't rocket science.
JH

[awander]

Paul:

At the risk of being called pedantic, it is "foot-pounds" or "inch-pounds" that you are measuring-NOT "inches per pound" or "feet per pound".

The applied force(in pounds) is MULTIPLIED by the "moment arm" or distance(in inches or feet) to give you a "twisting force"(called torque).

To make sense of this, think what would happen if you had a wrench twice as long, and you pushed on it with the same ammount of force-the nut or bolt you were twisting would feel TWICE the amount of "twist" with the longer wrench.

And yes, go to Sears for a torque wrench. Heck, if you can't find one, I have an extra one you can borrow for the cost of shipping. Let me know.

Andy Wander

[paul4168]

I would prefer to use newton meters rather than the english system.

The bottom line is that the spec says put a torque wrench on the axle nut without the oil seals and it should take between 10-20 inch pounds to turn the axle. If it is not between 10-20 inch pounds then add or remove shims.

The standard torque wrenches sold at Lowes and Home depot and the almighty SEARS as well as everywhere else in Raleigh have a bottom-end accurate reading of 10 foot pounds, which is alot bigger than 10 inch pounds making it difficult to accurately assess whether I am in spec or not.

I can special order a torque wrench.

This is my first time experience--I swapped out the final drives, and I don't want to put the tractor back together to discover that I made an error.

Thank you

[awander]

I hope it works out for you..

Andy

[paul4168]

I appreciate your feedback...Thank You

[WKPoor]

Paul, A beam type torque wrench in inch pounds should be very easy to obtain and cheap too. I would say however that 10-20" lbs is small enough to say if you feel a little drag its good, but just a little. Too much and they may wear prematurely.

[paul4168]

thanks wk...I agree my best course of action is to purchase a beam type torque wrench at autozone this evening for about $10 and try that route...exactly as you suggest...my only other choice is to order something online.

Paul

[Rudi]

Paul:

First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met

Didn't realize that this was basically your first thread posting to.. so I am a bit remiss in providing a proper welcome. Have a look at the links below... they may provide some help to you as you put the rear end back together.. The GSS-1411 is quite useful.

Welcome!



Ok, so here is the spiel :

I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.


Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These are intended to complement the businesses who support FarmallCub.com Website.

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are two must have's in anyone's collection.

In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.

I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family

[paul4168]

thanks wk...I agree my best course of action is to purchase a beam type torque wrench at autozone this evening for about $10 and try that route...exactly as you suggest...my only other choice is to order something online.

Paul

[rondellh]

Paul,
Actually to check rolling torque a beam or dial type torque wrench is what you want. A click style does not read torque nut tells you when a preset measurement is reached. It will actuallly click when you start moving the wrench which is starting torque which is always higher than rolling torque.
Plus they are alot cheaper nad you wont use it that often.

Rondell

[paul4168]

Hopefully to Finish this thread and to help somebody else with this issue.
#1 I found that if you take all the shims out and press the bearing in then the bearings will be too tight.
...it will be easy to tell tha the bearings are too tight.

#2 Similarly if you put in too many shims say 6 of the thick ones, the bearing will be too loose and you will be able to tell its too loose.

So I suggest that if you don't have a torque wrench, press the bearings on with no shims...the bearings will be too tight and there will be play in the bull gear. I suggest to sequentially add shims until the bearings become sufficiently free and the bull gear side-play disappears.

My situation was unusual. I had to replace an entire bull gear housing as well as some of the internal parts so it was important to adjust the load etc.