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HELP cub wont run

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mth74
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HELP cub wont run

Postby mth74 » Wed Aug 22, 2007 8:07 pm

My 54 cub that I just got will start and it will run for a minute or two then it will die.I can get it to start and it will run for 30 seconds and die this keeps happening and I dont know what is going on.I looked and it has gas in the tank the fuel is turned on,could the carb need work???The guy I bought it off of told me he cleaned the carb I dont know for shure I know that it puts out a little black smoke maybe the carb needs adjusted??How do I adjust the carb.I know there is two adjustment screws but I dont know for shure what thay do one is for air the other is gas???How would I know I adjusted them correct if I made adjustments.

help

thanks

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Rudi
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Postby Rudi » Wed Aug 22, 2007 8:21 pm

mth74:

Ok.. well that is normal and a common question/issue and sound like fuel starvation. Pretty simple solutions..

First - read Lurker Carl's Carb Fixes.

Then methodically follow these steps.
  1. Clean the vent holes in the gas cap.
  2. Drain the gas from the gas tank into an approved container such as a jerry can.
  3. Take off the Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly from the tank.
  4. Allow the tank to air dry and the fumes to dissipate.
  5. Check the tank for dirt, crud, leaves and other foreign matter. Clean if required.
  6. Disassemble the Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly and make sure that it is completely clean. Reassemble if parts are all ok, none missing or cracks in the gasket
  7. Inspect the Carb Inlet Screen for dirt. Clean as needed.
  8. Remove and inspect the Main Metering Jet - both orifices.. the lateral orifice and the tiny one at the base of the jet. Clean as required.
  9. I would remove the Carb and take apart. Inspect for dirt or a badly seated needle... possibly caused by dirt or a distorted tongue or float
  10. Rebuild if necessary using a genuine IH Carb Rebuild kit.
  11. Reassemble and remount.
  12. Check to ensure that the choke lever/arm is free, not binding and operating smoothly.
  13. Check to ensure that the governor rod/throttle assembly is free, not binding and operating smoothly. Lubricate rod assembly as required.
  14. Check the air circuit.. make sure that there are no obstructions. Clean if needed. Part of the air circuit is the Crankcase Vent Tube.. it runs from the Oil Bath Filter/Air Cleaner to the front of the crankcase. It is commonly obstructed with dirt/dust/crud. Clean with a long pipe cleaner or a rifle/gun style pull-through (a small one) :!:
  15. Remount Fuel Sediment Bowl
  16. Refill the tank
  17. Re-try starting.


Hope this helps.
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VinceD
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Postby VinceD » Wed Aug 22, 2007 8:30 pm

Here are a couple of easy things to check in addition to Rudi's great suggestions.

Is there an external fuel filter? If so, get rid of it.

There is a screen in the sediment bowl assembly. Make sure it is clean as well as the sediment bowl and the gas is flowing freely from the tank.

Get it running first then adjust the carb.

Good luck,
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KETCHAM
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Postby KETCHAM » Wed Aug 22, 2007 8:36 pm

Ditto sounds like dirt!!!!Kevin
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JimT
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Postby JimT » Thu Aug 23, 2007 6:25 am

I've always adjusted carbs after the engine is running and warmed up. I usually do it by ear, but you can use a tack and watch the rpm's.

JimT
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Joe Malinowski
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carb adj

Postby Joe Malinowski » Thu Aug 23, 2007 6:57 am

I agree don't touch carbs until it runs.
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Lurker Carl
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Postby Lurker Carl » Thu Aug 23, 2007 7:26 am

What brand carburetor is on the Cub, IH or Zenith?
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Max_Wedge
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Postby Max_Wedge » Thu Aug 23, 2007 7:42 am

You will find that the brain trust here is essentially that. These guys know their stuff!! Def sounds like fuel starvation. I would do exactly as they say, then if/when that all checks out, then it may time to open up the carb and clean it out. I have used Berrymans, air, ultrasonic tank and small pieces of wire to clean carbs in the past. Make sure all of your gaskets are in good shape before you button it all up, ot you may end up taking it all back apart again. The consencus seems to be to purchase a good carb kit from IH if it is needed. You def need to get the tractor to run and get it warm before you begin to make air changes in the carb. I have found, at least on my 100, it seems to handle running rich better than running lean.
Max
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Postby Into Tractors » Thu Aug 23, 2007 7:53 am

it will run for 30 seconds and die

If you haven't checked this, be sure you do
There is a screen in the sediment bowl assembly. Make sure it is clean as well as the sediment bowl and the gas is flowing freely from the tank.
you can either remove the line going to the carb to check for fuel flowing, or remove the plug at the base of the carb to see if fuel runs out.

If you have fuel freely flowing, and it still die's after a short period of time, you need to look at the carb itself. There could be something inside the carb causing an obstruction, or your float is not adjusted properly, which could cause the symptoms you gave.
Mike Duncan


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