Question about Plow'in

[KYMike]

Finially got a moldboard plow hooked-up to Big Red and cut-up a field today. Pleanty of power and the plow sliced through whatever I gave her. But I'm not real sure how depth adjustment is suppose to go. The depth adjustment control didn't really seem to make much difference nor did the hydralics. She cut a 6" deep square and flat furrow and laid the grass over on its back just fine but I felt I didn't have any other control other than lifting the plow out of the ground. Got some pretty big clumps too.

Also, pardon my newness but what's the best plowing pattern to use? I went counterclockwise from the outsides in (right wheel in furrow) and ended up with a single narrow strip down the center that was a bear to get to. It seems re-plowing an area is a big mistake (plow gets clogged-up). I understand the next step is discing but what do you use if you don't have one? Someone told me to drag a heavy log over the field to smooth it out.

All pretty new to me but I have to admit it felt good looking back behind me at a freshly plowed garden.

Thanks for your time-

[beaconlight]

Do you have a coulter ahead of the plow?
If you start in the middle and work your way out you have a dead furrow. A wide trench.
That's all I know. We'll let the experts tell you more.

Bill

[KYMike]

Do you have a coulter ahead of the plow?
If you start in the middle and work your way out you have a dead furrow. A wide trench.
That's all I know. We'll let the experts tell you more.

Bill

Yep, got a coulter ahead of the plow.

[evielboweviel]

next step would be to drag the field.
typical around here is 4 timbers bolted together about 1 foot apart on edge 10' wide.
Ron

[Marion(57 Loboy)]

As tedious as it sounds, I start at one side and go around...and around....and around....and around, all I have is the one dead furrow on the last pass. Then I go crossways 3 or 4 passes to square the ends up. I switch directions from year to year. My garden isn't forty acres either. I tried the first year as you did and had that impossible strip to get...with different results...my loboy got stuck .

I have a pull disk and the FH disk I run over the turned dirt with, then I drag a box frame made of 6x6's over that to level everything out, then hoe the rows and plant.

In your case, I'd let that freshly turned sod sit at the bottom for a bit. Maybe a walk behind tiller to chop it up enough to plant? If you bring the sod up to the top it'll start growing right away. I'd shop around for a disk for sure. More seat time in the CUB ! If you have local tractor club like I do, they usually have a "plow days" event. There's an excellent opportunity to get some practice time in and try different things. I'm always the smallest tractor there but I may have the 'MOST' fun !!

[cowboy]

Hi Mike

It depends on how much drainage you want and what you are using the finished piece for. I would use mine for a horse pasture so I would start in the center and going clock wise plow the whole thing twards the center. A farmer depending on what he would need for the water to run off would plow a strip 25'-45' foot wide plowing to the center and then start another strip till he got to the far edge of the field. The last cut on each side is called a dead furrow so for a farmer there would be a dead furrow every 25'-45' for water to run off into.

Once you plow you cannot re plow in any direction it will just plug up and make a big mess.

Billy

[Ike]

KYMike,
Large fields are usually divided into smaller sections called lands. The main purpose of this is to reduce the amount time of running across the ends. The point where two lands come together when plowing is called a dead furrow. The dead furrow will fill in a little when working the ground, but will stay some lower than the surrounding ground. Next year, the dead furrow will be your starting point when you plow. As mentioned in another post, in smaller gardens you can start on one side and just plow one way until you get to the other side, which eliminates ever having a dead furrow in the center of the garden. Then next year just go the opposite direction.

Ike

[Bigschuss]

KYMike,

I tried 2 new things this year on our small potato fields. One, I used a jointer on my plow along with the coulter. I was really impressed with the way that jointer threw all the surface trash into the furrow before being burried by the freshly turned soil. Secondly, I tried my grader blade in the mid-mount position to level the field after disking. That, too, worked very nicely. The fields turned out nice and smooth. I don't know if you have a grader blade, but it's a nice way to smooth out freshly plowed and disked fields.

[KYMike]

Thanks for the great suggestions! I was laying out a plan for a 6x6 frame to level with when Bigschuss reminded me that I do indeed have a grader blade lol. I still need to disc it somehow but I believe my brother in-law has a walk-behind tiller I could borrow so I might get out of buying a disc this year.

Thanks again-

[Lurker Carl]

Depending on the size of your garden, the condition of your joints, and the tiller style - you'll get a strenuous workout.

[nenenick]

Hello everyone, I been reading with interest on this topic because I am also new to this! I was hoping someone would have answered his question on the depth control!



Best Regards

[Bigdog]

The depth contol has a limited amount of control on the depth depending on soil conditions. As long as nothing is bent or twisted, somewhere about mid point on the lever should maintain a furrow around 6" deep. If the plow does not want to go into the ground or wants to ride up out of the ground, move the lever forward to drop the front of the plow and it should plow deeper. If the plow wants to bury itself, raise the plow point by pulling back on the lever until the plow wants to run a nice level furrow. If the ground conditions change, you will have to re-adjust the plow as you go.

[Randy 64 Cub]

I always had trouble adjusting the depth on the drawbar stle plow, but the fast hitch I can plow from 3" up to 12" deep if I want to and anywhere between. The only problem is finding a dry enough day in spring to plow as in example me plowing last month. It was a little too wet, but I got it done.

[Bigschuss]

nenenick,

Also, to address one of KYmike's questions, the hydraulics really have nothing to do with adjusting depth control. The rockshaft should be lowered so that the plow is free to seek its own depth in the soil. You can adjust the chain so that there is plenty of room for the plow to ride up or down in the soil, but which will also allow you to raise the plow completely above the level of the ground for transportation.

As Bigdog already stated, pushing your depth adjustig lever all the way forward will lower the drawbar and change the angle of the plow in a way that will send it to China. Pulling the lever all the way back will raise the drawbar and cause the plow to ride shallow in the soil.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

KYMIKE, can you post a picture of your plow share? The point may be worn. also when the plow goes down to the 6 inch dpeth do you hace slack in your chain. another note, 6 inches is aobut normal for plowing in the MO. clay.