Hydraulic Block Rebuild

[Dale Finch]

Open the fill cap before you open the drain. Don't ask why I know that.

Took a while to clean everything up, including myself!! Have a sweatshirt that is completely blotchy with HyTran!!

[Matt Kirsch]

Wow, I thought I was the only one.

[cub.bub]

Wow, I thought I was the only one.

NO......You're not! and it leaves a nice aroma in the shop.
Bruce

[Ken (48 Cub)]

Nope...I removed the small pipe plug without removing the fill plug once. I tasted Hy-Tran for a week

[Clownfish]

I don't know if I am going forward or backward. Drained the TC block and thanks to all of the good advice did not get wet with Hy-Tran. After removing the pump the cub still would not start. Firing was intermittent. Looked for the problem for a couple of hours including timing and checking rotor and rotor pinion without any luck. Changed points and condenser and the tractor fired right up. One pull on the starter or one turn of the hand crank and it ran great. Ran about 5 minutes then restarted it about 5 times. Reinstalled the TC pump, refilled the TC block and was ready to now see if the TC system would operate but the engine would not start just as before. Once again I have intermittent fire to the plugs. Only thing I know to do now is to replace the coil but I sure hate to buy a new magneto coil without knowing it is bad. I feel like the starting problem is not connected to the TC rebuild but 2 times I have had a running tractor and after installing the TC system it wouldn't start. Again I am ready for any suggestions.

[staninlowerAL]

You could try an external coil as a test. If you don't have one on hand a new one will set you back around 20 bucks. You could even do it temporarily with a 12v battery and coil. Stan

[Jim Becker]

You could try an external coil as a test.

If you do that, be sure to totally remove the internal coil for the test. Otherwise the coil will probably be bad by the end of the test whether it is now or not.

[Clownfish]

I have a new mag coil on the way. If that doesn't work I'll scratch my head some more.

[Sailor]

Glenn, when you reinstall the unit, are you moving/displacing any wiring? I don't know how you have the wire bundle secured but maybe one or more of the wires are grounding out when you put the unit in.

Larry

[Clownfish]

I have looked and haven't been able to see any that are grounded. The second time all I removed was the TC pump and there are no wires near it but that doesn't mean I didn't bump one somewhere during the process. Since I am using a magneto what exposed wire other than the one to the kill switch might keep it from firing? I tried it with the kill switch disconnected and still no luck.

[Sailor]

Sorry Glen, the wiring suggestion was all I had. Good luck.

[Clownfish]

The new mag coil seems to have done the trick. I installed it today and it fired up with one turn of the hand crank. I can't be sure it was a bad coil since this was a problem that came and went away almost on its on. It is possible that I fixed the problem while installing a new coil and will never know what the real problem was. I am not going to put the old coil back in just to make sure that was the problem. I am happy to now be sure it wasn't related to the TC rebuild.

Now that the Cub is running I can get back to work on the TC. I rebuilt the block and pump and bled the air out of the system and I don't appear to have any leaks. The movement of the TC piston is jerky. If I move the TC lever full range in one movement the piston fully extends or retracts smoothly. If I move the lever a small amount nothing happens. It takes several small movements of the lever to move the piston and then I get a large movement. Control isn't very precise. Is there any particular problem that would cause this? I had a hard time getting the control valve and the piston back in the block after the rebuild. Would a damaged O-Ring on one of these cause a jerky operation? I don't see this symptom in the trouble shooting guide.

[Dale Finch]

Did you recheck the fluid level? After bleeding the air out you may need some more HyTran.

[Clownfish]

Dale,
With the piston retracted the fluid level is just touching the threads at the bottom of the filler hole. When the piston is extended it drops down about 1/2".