PROBLEM: Pegged oil pressure,getting hot, new overhaul

[JayJay]

Engine starts and runs as smoothe as a sewing machine, except it has enough oil pressure to peg the gauge and heats up FAST!!!! ......Suggestions?????????????
Thanks in advance. JayJay

[Eugene]

Oil pressure. Check the accuracy of your current gauge.

Engine heats up fast. Does the radiator boil over?

Who overhauled the engine and what was done to the block before the engine was reassembled? Block flushed or boiled out?

[JayJay]

Thanks for your response and yes block was boiled, radiator is clear, new oil, new parts,crank turned 10/10 . Almost like there is a block in the oil line somewhere but I am at a loss where it could be......Thanks Again and I sure appreciate all ideas. JayJay

[Scrivet]

Please explain in a little more detail "heats up FAST"? Does that mean to operating temp? Overheating? How are you checking the heat/temp?

Welcome to the forum, we'll get it figured out together. But remember the only details we have to go on are the ones you tell us. Think of it like describing the Grand Canyon to a blind man. Saying "It's BIG!" won't tell him much, so you have to go in to a little more detail.

[Bob McCarty]

The Cub just wants coolant to the top of the fins. If you are filling up to the bottom of the neck, it will boil off until it reaches the lower level.

Bob

[Eugene]

Replace the oil pressure gauge with a known good one or remove and test.

One more thought, oil pressure relief valve stuck in closed position.

[JayJay]

Is the pressure relief valve before of after the filter/gauge? Definitely engine hot and water is exiting the engine hot but radiator is defusing a goodly amount of heat. Motor heat is on the extreme side. Pressure relief valve was cleaned and replaced during the overhaul, however I believe that may be the place to start and I will examine that and gauge is operating properly. Don't know why pressure relief would stick but stranger things have happened. Will try that and see what happens. JayJay

[JayJay]

I really appreciate all suggestions and I must admit I have never run across something like this. To accurately describe what is going on is sorta on the "I ain't sure" side. I really don't want to operate it much as you'all know you can get a chunk of change in one of those engines and really don't want to trash it before we come up with an answer. As to "BIG" I definitely appreciate the humor in what you say and I am not certain how to describe the symptoms cause I have never ran across anything like this before. All I can say is keep on with the questions and I will try to keep up with the answers and trying the solutions and we will ,hopefully, come up with a solve on this problem. Thanks in advance for all your help and please keep it coming cause my Grandson loves to drive it and he would be extremely happy to get it going again. Thanks again!! JayJay

[Eugene]

Oil pressure relief valve is before the oil filter housing and the oil pressure gauge. The oil pressure valve is locate on the right side of the engine towards the front. A moderately large hex nut. Remove the nut and remove the spring. Replace the nut. Start and run engine for 2 or 3 seconds. The oil pressure valve should be now located against the hex nut.

Oil pressure gauges have been know to provide faulty readings.

High oil pressure can only be one of the two things previously mentioned.

[ricky racer]

Were the bearings plasti-gaged to assure proper clearances? Were the ring end gaps properly adjusted? When you say rebuilt, I'm assuming it was bored and new pistons/rings installed. Is that correct?

[ricky racer]

Another thing to consider and I'll need others to chime in here, can the bearing shells be installed incorrectly? Can the upper shell with the lube hole be accidently be put on the bottom side? I don't recall if that can be done or not....

[Smokeycub]

Were the bearings plasti-gaged to assure proper clearances? Were the ring end gaps properly adjusted?

I second Rickys' concerns.

Another thing to consider and I'll need others to chime in here, can the bearing shells be installed incorrectly?

I'm pretty sure they can installed with the oiling hole(s) covered.

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%2 ... e%2022.jpg

[jpcubs]

sent you a pm

[JayJay]

Well..... and the mystery gets deeper. I removed the prv valve, and spring and thoroughly examined them. Brand new spring, valve, and plug with new brass ring. spring deflection at approximately 20 pounds, valve was not exactly round with some ups and downs on it but nothing that would hang up yet I did sand and polished it to almost perfectly round. Started it and blew some oil out in case it may have had some filings. No filings but oil appeared a little darker than the oil in the crankcase. Reassembled and started then disassembled three times and observed what happened and each time pressure went up to approximately the "I" on oil on the gauge, hesitated for for about one second, then climbed right on up to peg each time. "I "on the gauge is about 20 pounds and pegged is about 40 pounds. The barrel on the valve is clean and smoothe. It almost seems line the dump line on the Valve is plugged but I don't know how that could be. Inserts rings were installed in the oiling position but I am beginning to think this may mean a complete tear down so I am sure hoping you all can come up with something. JayJay

[Clark Thompson]

as Ricky Racer mentioned. some bearing have holes in both upper and lower so it doesnt matter how they are installed BUT! some manufacturers only have a hole in the top bearing. Rod and mains could be either or. More description on how the bearings were installed would help. If bearings were installed correctly then If it were me I would install a higher range oil pressure gauge to see just how High the pressure is.. If over 50 lbs then I would say that there is a issue with the pressure relief valve. I have rebuilt many cub engines that commonly put out 45 lbs cold then in the 30 lb range when at operating temp. As far as your description of overheating I would suspect that your filling the radiator to the top. Doing this leaves no room for coolant expansion thus it blows the excess out but not necessarily overheating. I use a old meat / candy thermometer in the top of the radiator to determine if a cub engine is running at proper temperature. Proper operating temperature would be 200 deg or less.