1949 Cub Natchez MS Updates

[cavingreer]

Here's pics of the parts I got from CharliesRepair.com and I just sent them to him to see if I've got something wrong. He's been really helpful and good communication so I'm sure he'll get back to me shortly but I wanted to see what everyone here thought. I installed it with a 1/2"x20" belt which lands about 1/2 way through the tensioner arm adjustment, and I put some different spacers in, with a longer bolt to reach all the way through the water neck to a nut on the back, and all seems to be lined up except the belt still isn't tracking completely straight and it's all the way out on the adjustment slots.

[Glen]

Hi,
Just wondered if your hood will go on, with the bottom bracket being made offset to the right of the bolt holes on the engine. Notice how Dale's lower bracket, on the first page of this post, is not offset to the right, it is mostly straight in line with the bolt holes.
I had a Cub with a Delco alt., and the hood fit ok without any alteration, but the alt has to be in really close to the cylinder head, so it has room to swing out at the top to tighten the belt.
You may have too long a belt, if it is out near the end of the adjustment slot.
The bracket is not made exactly right if the belt is not straight between the pulleys.

[cavingreer]

Charlie's been making these for awhile and they do fit with the hood on. I only installed it with a 20" belt, I think the kit is made to work with up to a 22" or 24". The 20" barely makes it over the pulley. I think this one just got welded a bit wrong, like 1/4"-1/2" off to the back so the adjustment slots aren't right. He's working on a Cub Lowboy right now and going to do a test install with one today to see if he can figure out what happened with mine.

[cavingreer]

After talking to Charlie today and comparing measurements it seems that somehow the bolt holes in my block are farther back than the ones on 2 or 3 other tractors he's looking at. The simple fix is I took my bracket to the machine shop to get the top plate moved forward 1/2" so I'll have full adjustment range. Meanwhile I'm curious if anyone has seen different mounting locations for the generator mounting holes?

[Jim Becker]

. . . the bolt holes in my block are farther back than the ones on 2 or 3 other tractors he's looking at. . .

That seems unlikely.

[cavingreer]

I agree Jim, Anyway a $10 fix to get it welded forward a bit and I'm on track.

[cavingreer]

The dash panel, before, during and after. All done but the wiring and figuring out the missing fuse holder in the bottom

[Dale Finch]

Are you looking for one? If so, TM Tractors (link below) is one of our sponsors and has the 6 and 12v fuse holders:
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/el_002newparts.htm

6v


12v

[cavingreer]

If the wiring harness I just bought doesn't include it that's the one I'm going to order. I'm curious though, where does that go in the circuit? I haven't seen that in the diagrams I've looked at.

EDIT - Got into work so I wasn't browsing on my phone and did some more forum checking on it. So the 4-pos switch I have has the fuse holder, therefore the plastic fuse holder probably wasn't there. Which makes me wonder again why the hole was there at all?

[Glen]

Hi,
IH changed the look, or the placement of the instruments and switches through the years on the Cub dashes. The ignition switch was in the bottom hole on the first Cubs, the manual shows. Below is a page from the 1947 Cub owner's manual showing the ignition switch was in the bottom hole. Then later they moved the ignition switch up one hole.
Then later, when they used the voltage regulator, they put the fuse holder in the bottom hole.
If your 4 position switch has the fuse on it, you don't use the separate fuse holder in the bottom hole.
Click on the pic makes it bigger.

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20 ... age-04.jpg

[Clownfish]

Cavin
PM sent.

[cavingreer]

Glen I looked a several pics including the 1949 and 1950 manual and I'm guessing they probably just didn't even have anything in that hole on mine. It probably didn't come with an ignition key. I reserve the right to be wrong, but they had only cut the wires to the lights and rolled them up in the dash area so it probably would have been there, missing the key. I'm probably just going to put a hole cover over it for looks and leave it be and figure the light switch out later when I can buy 12V replacement lights and mounts. From what I've read so far if I hook it up what I'll have is a dead switch on L-H which would only be for historical purposes, and on Dim it will probably smoke the resistor. I haven't dug any farther but is there a suitable replacement for the dimming resistor for 12V?

[cavingreer]

Making a little progress this morning:

Dipstick I snagged off eBay came in!

Now in it's proper place. No more tin can!

[cavingreer]

So after comparing notes, pictures and measurements with Charlie, the only explanation is the bracket he sent me was welded in the wrong spot. A simple $10 fix at the machine shop, still cheaper that most of the brackets out there, and it's ready to go.

A little adjustment on Charlie's bracket and it lines right up

Painted and mounted

Tensioner arm and spacers

Ready to go!

[cavingreer]

Got my wiring harness in and started putting things together. When I removed the dash panel there seemed to be a layer of something between it and the frame. Should there be a rubber pad or something there to help with vibration?