1949 Cub Natchez MS Updates

[Jim Becker]

Sometimes the brushes are worn to the point they won't make good contact or the communtator is dirty and needs cleaning up with fine emery cloth.

You should use sandpaper rather than emery cloth. The grit of emery cloth is conductive and can cause problems if it gets stuck between the segments.

[staninlowerAL]

You should use sandpaper rather than emery cloth. The grit of emery cloth is conductive and can cause problems if it gets stuck between the segments.

Jim, Thanks for that bit of information. I never realized that emery cloth grit is conductive. i'M AMAZED AT THE DEPTH OF INFORMATION THAT THE FORUM MEMBERS ARE WILLING TO SHARE Stan

[staninlowerAL]

is the rod going to the switch adjusted right? If its not pushing in the switch enough it will never make good contact. Check the rod and the lever pivit point and see if it is working good and/or adjusted right. I had one that the pivot point was actually gone (the pin fell out) while the rest looked like it was working, it would only touch the switch but not actually push it to make contact...

This may be a long shot but worth consideration: Is the starter lever about 8 or 9 inches long or about 3 inches long? Longer lever=more leverage and the pull rod may be different for each application. If you can make good contact by pushing the switch by hand then it's got to be in the linkage.

[cavingreer]

It's a combination of bad contact on starter and leverage. My lever is the short style. I pulled the switch this morning and the contact on the starter was pitted and dirty. The contact is in pretty bad shape because it has worn a sunken area in the center. I had installed it with dielectric grease and all that was burned and settled into the middle of the contact. I cleaned all that off, filed it down a little and reinstalled it dry and got it to contact enough to fire, still have to do it by hand to make it work better so I may also swap to the longer style lever at some point. I was able to move the tractor under it's own power for the first time, short trip over to a tree I use to winch up my lawnmower and change blades. Going to get the front wheels fixed.

[cavingreer]

Hey guys, I finally bought battery so I can quit fighting with the jumper cables. Picked up a Type 35 550 CCA. Also picked up a plastic battery box to use until I can get a reproduction box. But it just occurred to me to wonder if a Type 35 will fit in the stock battery box?

[Bill Hudson]

Here is the info you need (courtesy of bob in CT) for selecting a battery that will fit the stock battery box.

There have been many questions about buying a 6v battery.

Batteries are identified by "Group Number" in the battery industry. Group number identifies the size of the battery and the location of the terminals. The 6 volt battery used in the Cub is the same as the old VW Bug 6 volt battery and they are still available as they are used in golf carts, floor machines, signs and many commercial applications. Ask for Group 19L or Group 1 and you will get a 6 volt battery that fits. You may then get choices on battery quality and the best measure of this is cold cranking amps or CCA. The higher the number the more plates in the battery and that means you have more "power" available especially in cold weather when battery capacity drops. You can buy batteries at Sears, NAPA, or any other battery retailer that will order a battery for you if they do not carry it on the shelf. Interstate Battery has them in their on-line catalog under vintage cars. Use VW as the lookup in their battery finder, but you need to look it up in the vintage car section to find it.

I have seen some 12 volt tractors with the wrong battery too. I think a lot of battery box covers and fronts are lost when the PO came home with a battery that was not the right size so the covers were set aside and eventually lost. The correct 12 volt battery is Group 26R.

Good luck.

Bill

[cavingreer]

This was the info I went by

A typical Group 1 six volt battery measures 8-7/8” long x 6-7/8” wide x 8” tall, so most battery trays have ample room for a 12 volt battery. The popular Group 26 (8-1/4 x 6-3/4 x 7-1/2) battery will easily fit most applications as it is somewhat smaller than the Group 1 dimensions. A Group 25, will provide an even better fit since its dimensions are almost identical to the Group 1 six volt. Also available is the Group 35, which is identical to the Group 25 except the posts are reversed.

Now that I'm online and looking in detail at dimensions I see that a 25 or 35 is going to be too tall. I'll take this set back and go by NAPA and pick up a 26R

[Rob in NH]

i have a 19L in my 57, clears the top ok.

[cavingreer]

Well after getting the new front tires on, reversed the wires on the ammeter, battery hooked up, put some slime in the back tires and some SAE90 in the gearbox I got to drive 'Ol Bob around a little bit today. Got a water leak on that upper radiator hose from the looks of it. Steering gearbox is missing bolts and needs seals. Main gearbox is probably leaking as well. OH and when I got the tires on, cranked up and drove over to the shop and hit the right brake pedal, the pedal mount broke clean off the bottom of the floor pan
Lots to do but at least it will finally crank, run, charge and move under it's own power!
https://youtu.be/nIkkxiugf18

[dgrapes59]

Well, you are heading in the right direction, congratulations on getting it going! Floor pans are easy to come by and cheap (if yours isn't reparable), steering seals are easy to replace, one step at a time and you will get there.

[cavingreer]

I have found another member of my fiancé's family that has 3 or 4 parts cubs at his house. Doesn't see the value or have the time to do any restoration, and he's offered me anything I need off them. Spoke to him today and asked him to look for a good battery box, starter and floor pan. Mine could probably be tacked back on but it does need replacing due to the corrosion under the old battery box. Might get lucky there and if not I'll hit up one of the sponsoring dealers on here and grab one.

[cavingreer]

Hey guys I looked around on here and in the parts diagrams to find the small screws that hold the hood supports down at the bottom of the frame.
Going by this post it looks like they would be #10-24NC so that's what I picked up but they are too big? #8 maybe?
The PO welded the support to the hood on the left side and they left all the screws out of the bottom both sides and of course the stress cracked the bottom of the dash panel. I want to get it secure before I use it much.

[Bob McCarty]

10-24 is the correct size. You may just need to chase the threads to get them in. Also check to see if the front of your hood has the support bracket on either side that attaches to the top of the radiator supports. That may have been mentioned before, but I'm too lazy to reread all of this thread.

Bob

[cavingreer]

Just a shadetree paint job after stripping 3 coats of paint off but it looks a little better and I finally have a breather

[cavingreer]

Quick question? Wasn't there some kind of O-ring or gasket in the air cup to seal it to the breather assembly?
Was about to order a couple little things and wanted to include it but I don't see one in the parts manual TC-37F Group 12 page 30 (pdf page 140)
I'm also trying to find a replacement for the governor rod clip 351009R1. My control lever won't stay in place at high RPM. I filed the notches a bit but the lever has a groove worn in it. TM is out of stock on the lever and I don't see the clip on their site.