What to do with a Cub you just brought home

[jameslsuhr]

A most outstanding list of requirements. I have saved and printed for my own endeavors on my 1950 Cub.

[LyleDoe]

Great information! Thank you! I am a first-time owner! I have a 1952. As I go through this list and take things apart I find this to be very dirty! I just took the dash off as I plan to replace the oil gauge, light switch, and ignition switch along with the wiring harness. I am thinking of taking off the radiator since I already have the hood off. What is the advice on painting any parts before you put them back on? The tractor has a nice original paint that has all faded together nicely! My thinking was to paint the parts I have cleaned up to reduce any further rust. What does everyone else do short of a complete paint job? Thanks! I am new to all of this and appreciate any advice!

[staninlowerAL]

There are two schools of thought--"original paint that has all faded together nicely" fits in with "your tractor is only going to be original once, whereas any tractor can be repainted". It's yours and your call so do what you want to with it. That said, I would clean things up and use a rust inhibitor on the places that need protection. If you don't like the way it looks then paint. JMHO!

[LyleDoe]

There are two schools of thought--"original paint that has all faded together nicely" fits in with "your tractor is only going to be original once, whereas any tractor can be repainted". It's yours and your call so do what you want to with it. That said, I would clean things up and use a rust inhibitor on the places that need protection. If you don't like the way it looks then paint. JMHO!

Thanks! That makes perfect sense! I was just surprised that the more I took off the easier it was to keep taking things off and clean! I will look into rust inhibitors - I do like the look of original paint! I am going after the radiator next!

[staninlowerAL]

A bit of caution if you are planning to remove the radiator. It's not uncommon to break some of the bolts when you are removing them so be prepared to deal with that if it happens. A long extension is the best access to get to the bolts from the top on the fan side. Alternately you can flush the bolster by removing the lower radiator hose for access.

[Dale Finch]

Unless the radiator needs repair, I agree with Stan, you can give the radiator and engine a pretty good flush, just by removing the water inlet and hose below the distributor/mag.

There's a procedure in the manual for using Arm & Hammer Washing Soda, available at Lowe's and some grocery stores.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/ARM-HAMMER-55-oz-Laundry-Stain-Remover/1000240837

[LyleDoe]

Unless the radiator needs repair, I agree with Stan, you can give the radiator and engine a pretty good flush, just by removing the water inlet and hose below the distributor/mag.

There's a procedure in the manual for using Arm & Hammer Washing Soda, available at Lowe's and some grocery stores.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/ARM-HAMMER-55-oz-Laundry-Stain-Remover/1000240837

Good advice - It has gotten cold here in Ohio so I will not be doing anything more awhile. My shop is not heated! The radiator seems fine. I was just thinking of removing it while I have the hood off to update the gasket and check the radiator closer for good measure.

[Dale Finch]

If you do, and I mean only if you must, remove the radiator, one task comes to mind...

Check the entire linkage from the throttle (speed control lever) forward to the governor lever, across the rockshaft to the gov/carb rod, to the carburetor. You are checking for binding (common with the gov lever), looseness (common for the governor spring and where the gov rockshaft attaches to the gov), and adjustment of the gov/carb rod length.

Oh, and check the belts and replace, if needed.

It'll never be easier than with the radiator off. But, again, unless you KNOW you have a problem with the radiator, a good flushing is all I would do.

[Wall-eCub]

Thanks for the awesome post on what to do. Just got my cub and it's my first tractor.

[Cleandate05/10/05]

Looks like that list will keep me busy for a while on the 2 cubs I just bought with attachments.

[bhatcher]

Thanks for the to do list. Probably wouldn’t hurt after 10 years to do.

[4thGen]

This weekend marks the 7th year of my '55 coming home. It was in nice shape when I got it, and it came with a bunch of implements and a few years fresh paint job.

I think it's time I finally change the oil
In all seriousness, 7 years with 15-20 hours of run time per year (mostly snow plowing, and a few small garden tills) puts me around 105-140hrs.

Today's projects are rebuilding the hydraulic pump (did the TC last Wed), changing the engine oil, and taking a look in the left final to see why the brake shoe doesn't engage the drum - it looks like the pivot rod is broken.

Transmission and steering box will probably get drained and flushed next week, provided I don't need to sickle mow my cousin's field yet, in which case that takes priority.

[Don McCombs]

I would agree that based on the estimated hour level, you’re not seriously overdue for an oil and filter change. One thing not taken into consideration though, is the amount of condensation buildup in the crankcase. Don’t forget that these engines don’t have a PCV valve. You may want to increase the frequency a little.

[Denedbell]

Thanks for this! It’s very helpful!

[lititzdoug]

This is all great information. Lost my grandfather just over a year ago and he left his '48 cub to me. Brought it to its new home Memorial Day, added a new battery and a splash of new gas and it fired right up after sitting for 6 years. My first steps are going to be new fluids all around and then we will see where we go from there.