Need Wiring diagram

[rstoots]

While I have the one touch out I am restoring console to original configuration.
Need wiring diagram for a 1949 Cub with 3 position light switch. Also have 12v conversion with 1 wire alternator.
Post picture or give me a link.
Thanks

[rstoots]

Found diagram and the 1947 model had a 4 position switch so I will change it out and start hookup. Can someone identify the correct ammeter for this year? I saw 3 on TM.

[Glen]

Hi,
If your Cub has been converted to 12 volts, and an alternator, you probably need an ammeter made for more than 20 amps, like the original IH ammeters were made for. But it is your choice. It gives the dates there at TM Tractor when the 3 styles were used.
I think Chipmaker on this site knows about what ammeter to use. You could ask him about it. He has a long post about restoring his 1947 Cub.

[Slim140]

Thanks for the shout out Glen. Here's the gauge I put in the '47 that also has a 1 wire 12V alternator. I don't see it listed on TM's website, I actually bought it at the Thresher's Reunion in Denton last year. It can be found on other tractor websites. Is it period correct for the tractor, no, it's been converted to 12V! Does it work, yes!
This gauge is on Arnold, I also converted Walt and it has an IH gauge that only goes to 20 and it will peg it. I need to change it as well.

[rstoots]

Thanks again Glen, you always come through. I sent a PM to Chipmaker about a wiring diagram, I will find the correct ammeter and am going with a 3 position light switch since it's not an OEM Cub.

[rstoots]

Chipmaker,
I thought I had sent you a PM but apparently I didn't. I just purchased a 60 amp meter from Steiner.
I have a 3position light switch and a 2 connector switch with a 1 wire alternator.
Can you help me with a wiring diagram. my email is rstoots@verizon.net
I'm on page 10 of your 49 restore project, I will start a restore one section at a time later but not near as complete as you have.

[Slim140]

Sent you a PM back and an email. Let me know if I can help anymore.

[rstoots]

I found the info. I needed at the link below from May of last year posted by Glen. Thanks to Glen and Chip[maker.

[rstoots]

OOPS,
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=92932&p=734235&hilit=3+light+switch#p734235

[rstoots]

OK, every thing is hooked up, hood on with gas, won't start and it was running before I rewired dash. Touch control appears to be working as when I tried to start the lift lever went forward. Ammeter goes all the way to the left when I pull the switch to on, turn lights and it goes a little neg. Checked voltage to magneto about 10v I hooked up wire directly from starter post and magneto post sparks as if direct short to ground, is that OK? Tried starting fluid but it still won't start. Just tested spark plug wire and getting no spark. Converted to 12v by PO. Other ideas to check?

[staninlowerAL]

Checked voltage to magneto about 10v I hooked up wire directly from starter post and magneto post sparks as if direct short to ground, is that OK?

NO, Don't understand this statement. No need to apply voltage to the magneto unless you are wired for an external coil.
EDIT: Reread the first part of this thread and see you are converted to 12v w/alternator. Am I missing something?
EDIT 2: Reread your other post about this subject, Is it about the same tractor? Are you using an external coil with the magneto?

[rstoots]

Wire goes from ign. sw to magneto, I do not have external coil, there is a post on the magneto so something goes to it. I replaced the 2 wire alt. with a 1 wire alt. Replaced ign toggle sw with OEM pull sw, replaced ammeter with a 60 amp meter, replaced light sw with OEM 3 position sw.. Light sw works correctly. All was done using wire diagram on this post. Same tractor and I said it has been converted to 12v system with neg. ground.

[Glen]

Hi,
If you have a magneto with the original type coil inside it, it is completely separate from the battery and electrical system, it makes it's own power. Do not connect voltage to the little post on the side of the magneto, if that is what it is now. The post is for grounding the magneto to stop the engine.
The original ignition switch had 1 post for 1 wire, that simply grounds the magneto when in the off position.
The ammeter pointer should not move all the way to discharge when you turn on the ignition switch.
Here is a page from the Cub owner's manual showing the original 6 volt wiring, with magneto, and the ignition switch.
I see that you have 12 volts now, but the magneto still needs to ground to stop the engine, like it did before.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2034.jpg

[Eugene]

Wire goes from ign. sw to magneto, I do not have external coil, there is a post on the magneto so something goes to it.

Glen explained it.

Now tractor won't start, probably burned up the magneto's internal coil.

Two solutions; external coil for the magneto or purchase the magneto's internal coil.

[rstoots]

Yep, I have destroyed the magneto coil. Disconnected wire and still wouldn't start.
Can I assume by mounting http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/808fp.htm external coil and run a coil wire to distributor with a hot wire from console sw would be one solution. Replacing magneto coil and change out the switch would be the other solution.
What's involved with changing magneto coil and is that the only part I need to replace? Can you provide a link to the correct switch on the TM site?