Farmall Cub

Can anyone provide a link to a clear wiring diagram for a one wire alternator on a tractor with battery ignition. Tractor had been converted to 12v in the past, wiring was kinda screwy so we're putting on a new harness from Steiner. Some of the directions are not really clear so I want to double-check our connections to make sure they're correct.

This experience so far has done nothing but further convince me that 12 volt conversions are of the devil.....

thanks,
Al

I wish I would have converted Walt when I got him about 8 years ago, would have caused me a lot less battery charging, lol. Here's a digram using a Chevrolet alternator, disregard the extra wires at the alternator and the warning light. If it's a true one wire alternator it can stay hot all the time, I have 2 one wire alternators and one of them has to be switched or it will drain the battery. The other one is hot all the time with no problems at all.

In case anyone is wondering here's the best true one wire alternator. It can be ran straight to the battery via the amp gauge and won't drain it. It's $71.39 with free shipping.
https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/c ... 12180.html

Napa has them also
Part: RAY 2134011SW
Product Line: NAPA Power Premium Plus

TST, I have used the one Chipmaker referenced. The NAPA one looks larger in the photo.

The post in the back helps. my post is very close to the coolant pipe return to the radiator.

Does it fit under the hood? It is 25-30 more amps as well.

I have installed many delcos with no problem, IH used them on the late model long stripe cubs from the factory, they are cheap, reliable, easy to install, design has been around since the 70's

The ammeter has a neg/pos post, how do wires attach?

if you hook up the wires on the amp gauge when you turn the switch on the points should make the gauge go to discharge or if you have headlights turn them on , if it goes to positive the wires are on backwards

What mounting brackets do you use with that alternator (going from 6v system to 12)?

We used the brackets Steiner sells. The tractor is a FFA project my students have been working on. It already had an alternator on it but of course the brackets were cobbled so we tried to make it look a little better. If it had've had the 6v generator still I would not have let them change it.

It's all hooked up correctly, and has a new ammeter for the higher alternator output. It shows very little activity when it's running. Anything I can check to make >>SURE<< it's charging?

Al

Super A wrote:Anything I can check to make >>SURE<< it's charging?

Voltage check across battery terminals, everything off. Then again with engine running above 1/2 throttle.

help I converted from 6 volts to 12 volts. I cannot get the alternators to charge. I have tried 3 all self exciting they say. Does it need a diode or warning light I don't have that. I have my one wire from the alternator to the battery then from there to the pull switch. I have my voltage meter and coil on the other side of the switch.
When pulled I show 12.3 volts. I have tested and get nothing coming from the alternator. Shows 12.3 while running. the

You didn't mention which 1 wire alternator you're using but if you can't get them to self excite you may have to add a diode, resister or warning light. I feel the diode is the easiest and cleanest. It simply connects from a switched power source (coil) to one of the small pins on the back of the alternator. (I can never which one) If you are using a 10SI, it may have a plug in that opening that will need to be removed.

Hey Gary, any chance we can do a quickie discussion on this topic at the Bash? It is such a common question, and I think it deserves a posting in the HOW TO section. I would happily take notes and photos, if you would be willing and able to do a short "lecture" on the subject!

I'll try that had the alternator tested it tested good. Thanks for the input guys.