1950 Farmall Cub Refresh

[tractorjunky]

I wasn't able to get much time in the shop this weekend. But got enough to where I could get the hydraulic system reinstalled.

With everything painted, the original leather boots cleaned and new o-ring for the control valve, we are ready to go.

Ready for reassembly

First up was installing the new o-ring on the control valve and installing the control valve with the leather boot. I also installed the leather boot on the piston rod. Boots look pretty good for using the parts washer and then some dish soap for cleaning.

Once I got the arms back on and everything connected again, I put the block back on the tractor.

With the pump rebuilt, painted and reinstalled,

I reinstalled the tubes and the control linkage to the lever.

I just need to add some hytran and the Hydraulic System is done.

Next up on the TO-DO list, fabricate a new bracket for the alternator. The bracket that came with it, had the alternator hitting the hood. At least they didn't cut the hood for clearance.

[Dale Finch]

After you fill the TC Block, leave the fill plug open. Since your piston is extended at this time, start the engine and operate the TC Lever several times to expell any air in the system. Then set the piston fully retracted and shut the engine down. NOW top off the block, if needed.

[tractorjunky]

This weekend I was able to fabricate a mounting bracket for the alternator. When I bought the tractor it was already converted to 12v. However the bracket that was installed holding the alternator allowed the alternator to hit the hood. Fortunately, they did not cut the hood. A few weeks ago I bought the NAPA 213-4011 SW alternator.

To get started, I needed to know where the edge of the hood is going to be. So I found a scrap piece of wood that conservatively represented the gap between hood hanger and the side of the hood.

With this, I used some welding magnets to hold the spacer on the radiator shields.

With a little trail fitting and a lot of double measuring, I ended up with this mounting bracket. I had to make the Aft end of the bracket a little thicker so the front end would clear the governor.

Due to the mounting bolts, I had to place one of the alternator lugs between the bolts. I will find some sort of spacer to fill the gap.

With the alternator mount installed, time for the tightening bracket. This was a little easier to figure out. I was able to cut the original bracket in two, then add a little extra material and put the two pieces at an angle relative to each other.

I will need to add a spacer on this bracket as well.

Once everything was done and bolted into place, I had the alternator mounted, using the belt that came with the tractor, NAPA 4L210 and having plenty of clearance to the hood.

[tractorjunky]

With the alternator bracket out of the way. It was time for the second tractor split. This time we will be taking the front axle and bolster off. This will allow better access to cleaning and painting the front of the engine.

We started off by taking the tie rods off and then dropping the axle.

Once the axle was off we removed the steering housing. This revealed the lovely grease that was used as the lubricant. I was not surprised to find this as there was a grease fitting installed on the fill port. The daughters will have fun cleaning this up.

Now it was time for the bolster to come off.

Now we have plenty of access to the front of the engine.

When the outside temp gets above freezing again, we plan on flushing the engine's water jacket.

Before closing shop for the night, we thought we would chase some threads. Only one problem, there is not enough room to get a tap in the Air Cleaner mount holes with the engine's front coverplate installed. To solve this problem, I taught my daughter how to make a thread chaser by cutting a slot in the end of a bolt. Worked like a charm and the threads are now clean.

We now have a pretty decent pile of parts that need cleaning, priming and painting. As far as I know, the only repairs that need to be made is removing 3 broken screws from the bolster that holds the dogleg panels and reworking/installing the radiator overflow tube. The steering housing will also receive all new gaskets and seals when we go back together.

With the tractor being split for the second time, it feels like we are over the hump and can see the end.

[Dale Finch]

I have been following this thread since the beginning, but haven't gone back to review all the things you have already done. So if you already covered this, just ignore...

While you have the front off, you have access to the hard-to-access governor lever, so now is the time to ensure the spring is good (replace NOW if not), the lever moves freely, and there is no slop in the gov rockshaft or the linkage across to the carb rod. Oil the fan, too!

Being female myself, I just LOVE seeing your daughter's participating! Even if they never work on a project like this again in the future, the knowledge and self confidence acquired will always stay with them!
My congratulations to them!! (and you, too!)

[Gary Dotson]

Your alternator bracket looks very familiar, I’ve made several similar ones in the past. You might, slightly, increase the bends in your upper bracket, to eliminate the need for a spacer, there.

[Pap]

We love seeing your daughters helping out with your project.