How to Make Your Own Gaskets

[Stanton]

Gaskets can be made in your workshop for most parts and applications on the Cub. A few benefits for this is:

1. Cost
2. Wait time
3. Fit

Like most of you, waiting around for a gasket to show up (after paying for shipping), can be a waiting game at best or frustrating at worse. Thanks to those who contributed comments to the initial thread; I've included their names/handles giving them credit. A few of the items you need are:

1. Gasket material (in this example, I'm using Fel-Pro #3157, 1/32" thick, but other thicknesses are available)
2. Ball peen hammer
3. Hole punch set
4. Hardwood board or plastic cutting board (Jim Becker)
5. X-Acto knife
6. Good marking pen (fine line)

The hole punch set can be found at most discount big box stores or your popular China-import tool company. Some have used empty rifle or pistol shell casings for punches (Mht).

Start by getting the part that needs a gasket. In this case, I'm using the upper radiator neck because it has to open holes and one blind hole. Get a piece of gasket material larger than the piece and trace the outline and the bolt holes. In the bolt hole under the neck, it was difficult to get a full circle drawn, but enough to see where it should be. Some have used a new gasket and made a photocopy or scan, then place the print over the gasket material, cutting through both for an exact size/fit (Winfield Dave).

You have an outline, now find the correct size hole punch. Use your bolt to determine the exact size. In my case, it's a 3/8" diameter bolt. Punch out the two holes. I'm punching these on hardboard which covers my workbench:

Here a pic of similar using a plastic cutting board purchased at any store selling kitchen wares (please don't use your wife's or family's kitchen cutting board! I won't be liable for the ramifications of your actions!):

Now insert both bolts through the gasket and into the cast iron holes. Use your fingers to firmly hold the bolts in place so the gasket doesn't move around during the next step.

Use the ball end of your hammer to begin tapping (lightly) on where you think is the the edge of the blind hole. After a few taps, you'll begin to see a slight indent, then a tear. Keep tapping all around the hole until you have completed the circle.

The edges on this one are a little ragged, so I cleaned the cut circle up with an X-Acto knife.

Finished gasket. Took less time, money and effort than to find one online at an acceptable cost and then wait for it to arrive. Now I can move on to applying the sealant of my choice and installation.

Same procedure used for cutting out a rear oil seal gasket:

Trace the outline.

Measure the inside border from the outside outline. In this case 3/4".

Make necessary "tick" marks all around the inside border.

Join the "tick" marks in a continuous line to cut by.

Punch out the bolt holes.

Finish cutting outside and inside border lines to reveal gasket.

Hope this helps you as an alternative to manufactured gaskets.