130 touch control leak

[howhow1]

I noticed a puddle of hydraulic fluid under my 130 today. . .
It appears to be coming from the front left lower rod/ shaft
Previously there I noticed a slight leak however I checked the level which was
About 3 in from the filler using a wire that I use for checking my cub
I thought this to be low, and added some fluid to approx 2 in from the filler
Did I over fill it ?
What is the right way to check the fluid level?
How do I go about repairing it, the best place to get parts?
Is there a service manual or reference to guide me through the repair?

Thanks

Howard

[Jim Becker]

I don't know if you can pull out whichever rod/shaft is leaking and change a single o-ring to fix it. You may need to pull it apart and put in a full set of o-rings and gaskets. You should be able to get the set (354007R96) locally from Lamb and Webster. Steiner has it on hand.

There is a Touch-Control Serviceman's Guide in the PDF manuals.

[howhow1]

I was looking at the TC guide
It’s hard to tell from the angle of the diagram but I think pt # 16 b might be where the leak is coming from
I noticed the boot is torn also
Is there a parts diagram with in part #’s around?

Howard

[howhow1]

Found the parts diagram
Are the tc systems the same for super a & 130?

[Jim Becker]

There were some running changes to the Touch-Control on the Super A. I don't know if there were any differences from the late Super A to the 130. I know there is at least one gasket that is included in two versions in the set. One is used on early Super As while the other is used with later Super As through 140s.

[howhow1]

thanks Jim

[howhow1]

Got it apart today
I feel like an expert crud scraper / degreaser lol
Looks like both rubber control valve boots are torn
Piston looks like it is starting to leak a little also
Thinking the best way to go is to put an entire seal kit in it
Noticed that there are no dust cover boots over the pistons
Are there supposed to be boots over the pistons like the cub?

Howard

[Jim Becker]

There were boots over both the control valves and the cylinders. Early were leather, later rubber. They may have changed to rubber by the time the 130 came out.

Cleanliness is very important. Clean the outside as well as you can before taking it apart. Then keep the internals clean. Use only hydraulic fluid to lube things when assembling.

[howhow1]

I thought I would service the pump while it’s apart
From what the dealer says I have a pesco pump
Steiner sells kits for Thompson pumps is there much of a difference?
Also is there a difference in fluids IH hytran vs other fluids ?
Some threads I’ve read say the seals don’t like other fluids
Is one better than the other?

[Jim Becker]

The gaskets and o-rings required to remove/replace the pump are included in the pump kits. Those parts are the same for both pumps. The pump shaft seal (the part most likely to need replacing) is the same in both pumps. The o-rings, washers, etc. used internal to the pumps are mostly different. To properly open up the pump to replace the seal you should have the right kit to change out all the related parts. That said, I have opened up pumps to change the seal and reassembled them with the old o-rings. If the old ones are still pliable, this can work OK. But if you do this, recognize the risk of needing a do over. Whichever parts you replace, be sure to pay CLOSE attention to exactly how it was originally assembled and put it back as it was. There is a part in there, shaped like an "8". People are notorious about putting this part in wrong side up. If you do that, the pump will go together perfectly and NOT WORK. So just pay attention to what you are doing and keep everything clean.

Hy-Tran is the fluid recommended by Case-IH. There are other compatible fluids that are OK and there are a lot of cheap fluids that are not OK. Whatever you use, make sure it is labeled as compatible with Hy-Tran.

[Bob McCarty]

Steiner shows a Pesco pump kit. Looks like it might be the right one....

[howhow1]

Thanks guys
I checked with the dealer today and was told the pesco pump seal kit was not available that the seals & o rings would have to be purchased individually. hmmm.... @ about double the price of a kit
I will check Steiner for the pesco pump kit

[howhow1]

Looked at the pesco kit from seiners and the models covered.
Compared to numbers stamped in my pump which are partly illegible.
So I started comparing part numbers,and differences in kits being unsure of which one I have.
So one kit has 18 pieces, the other 11 I believe
Then I pulled the pump apart . . .
( sorry guys tried to attach picture unsuccessfully - too large not sure how to change picture size on my ipad)
So it looks like all I need is an oil seal and two of the large housing o rings
There is an “E” shaped brass strip in one side of the pump gear bearings
I think I’ leave it alone. . .
Clean it up & reassemble with new seals.

[howhow1]

Finished thoroughly cleaning the outside of tc unit
The pump is assembled & on the tractor
Funny thing with the pump - only 3 seals
The main pump shaft seal and two rectangular quad rings
One for each cover, I’m told that the one with the brass reinforcement strip is a hi pressure seal.
I replaced the main seal, the other two are n/ a
Disassembled the tc unit marking L &R,and taking pictures of parts placement
The stepped boots from Steiner were too large so I obtained from dealer
Have to figure out how to remove a couple of parts = the safety valve sleeve & check and the one directly above it
Then thoroughly clean case with solvent & start assembling
Are there any adjustments I should be checking while assembling?
Also what is a good torque to tighten the bolts for the end cover at?

Howard