Interference issue between tire and grader blade.

[Lt.Mike]

Mike, your angle iron gussets are where I'd put them. Good job, IMO. The whole setup appears to be a serious threat to any snow you may get.

Nice!

Thanks, I spent a few hours today putting the curve into the extension with the press.
I’m sure there’s a harder way to do it but this was involved enough. I used a body and fender dolly between the press and blade (used a cub blade as a form). I’d press it, mark it’s position with a grease pencil, release, slide it 1-1/2” and press again. I did this down it’s length in 4 rows and probably close to 200 times.
I had my heater on in the barn and my iPod playing in the Bose sounddock so I was kind of in my zone. When I make another I’ll see if the iron works can roll the curve in for me. Probably take them 5 minutes.

[inairam]

what music were you playing? That should be in the right up so people can duplicate the work.

[F.POLLIO]

Hello, After reading through this thread and having a similar problem with the blade setup on a 140 has caused me to finally register and reply. From your photo it looks like the pivot axel hanger needs to be raised to the upper holes. There are two bolts on the left side that need to be unscrewed and moved up The lifting lever will then be placed in the second hole of the hanger. Also the axel braces will use the other lower hole which will allow it to fit the hanger. There are illustrations of this in the 1A-60 manual on pages 4 and 6. They do state on page 7 that this set up is used for a regular A, but do not state what the setup on page 4 is for. My assumption is that it could be used for a High Clearance model because it would set the hanger lower to the ground. I hope this may help.

[Lt.Mike]

what music were you playing? That should be in the right up so people can duplicate the work.

Bill Withers, Jack Johnson, James Taylor (Dales homie), Joe Cocker... mellow peaceful and calming tunes

[Lt.Mike]

Hello, After reading through this thread and having a similar problem with the blade setup on a 140 has caused me to finally register and reply. From your photo it looks like the pivot axel hanger needs to be raised to the upper holes. There are two bolts on the left side that need to be unscrewed and moved up The lifting lever will then be placed in the second hole of the hanger. Also the axel braces will use the other lower hole which will allow it to fit the hanger. There are illustrations of this in the 1A-60 manual on pages 4 and 6. They do state on page 7 that this set up is used for a regular A, but do not state what the setup on page 4 is for. My assumption is that it could be used for a High Clearance model because it would set the hanger lower to the ground. I hope this may help.

Until I figure out why it didn’t work the way it was (and I’m sure it’ll be obvious and simple ) this solution will work.

I see said the blind man...
Above is a quote of an earlier post I made and your answer confirmed that thought.
Raising the frame would kick the whole assembly forward .
I’ll leave it together for now but when the time comes to tear it apart for a paint restoration I’ll hang that part I made on the wall in my barn.
In my manual it shows it hanging in the lowest position with a tractor that has the square tube front with the brace, I assumed it was an industrial SA which has the same stance as a Farmall SA but it is likely a Super AV in the drawing.
One thing I will say to save some pride is that I have 2 of theses assemblies, both are set to the lower holes and both had come off Farmall SA’s from the prior owners. I have to assume they didn’t use their blades at full angle for plowing and probably wondered why it interfered at full angle too but didn’t put to much thought into it.

[Stanton]

Hello, After reading through this thread and having a similar problem with the blade setup on a 140 has caused me to finally register and reply. From your photo it looks like the pivot axel hanger needs to be raised to the upper holes. There are two bolts on the left side that need to be unscrewed and moved up The lifting lever will then be placed in the second hole of the hanger. Also the axel braces will use the other lower hole which will allow it to fit the hanger. There are illustrations of this in the 1A-60 manual on pages 4 and 6. They do state on page 7 that this set up is used for a regular A, but do not state what the setup on page 4 is for. My assumption is that it could be used for a High Clearance model because it would set the hanger lower to the ground. I hope this may help.

Welcome to the forum. Glad you registered. Now that you have, why don't you post a new thread over in the Introduce Yourself section and tell us about yourself. That post would satisfy the 2 post minimum so you can have access to all the PDF manuals on the site.

[Lt.Mike]

OK having slept on it I figured if I waited until I painted the tractor to readjust the plow frame that would leave this discussion open ended kinda like a season finale of a Tv show with a cliff hanger. Can't do that to you.
So as much as I was tired of working in the cold I tore it apart again today and shortened the hanger utilizing the "other" bolt holes that were full of gunk and had unmolested original paint. I removed the part I made and returned it to the original setup.
I put it all together and it works just fine. The tires have clearance a full angle and full turn on the wheel.
Thank you F.Pollio for your help.
I primed the snow extension and wrestled it onto the blade. yes I said wrestled, I used my press to put the curve into it because that's what I had but I inadvertently put a slight bow and tiny twist into the plate making it a royal pain to line the holes back up. It's on and looks right being bolted up now but it didn't get there under its own free will. It did so with great protest.
I highly suggest if you make a plate you have a machine shop put the curve in and even then drill the holes afterward.
I'm also going to stay with the galvanized carriage bolts too. The stainless are not as strong.
Here are some pics. Some were after dark as it took me most of the day to get this done.

This is with the blade at full angle and the wheel fully turned in.

[Lt.Mike]

Mike

Please post some pictures of the mod.

I mounted the blade today. Full right yaw of the blade I have a carriage bolt that may catch. I have two holes showing on the axel and have the larger front tires.

How big are those tires? I have the 15 x 5.00 fronts on mine.

This is a 140 with larger tires and rims. It has 11.2 x 24 on the back and I think 16" up front. I have a 130 and a 140 with the 9.5x 24 and 15". The tires on this one are noticeably bigger.

I may do this. I think it will be easier to mount plus move it forward.

Inairam, if in the event setting the frame in the higher position does not work for you, perhaps yours is already set that way and those bigger tires still need room you can have that part I made. I'd rather someone get some use out of it than it just hang on my barn wall.

[F.POLLIO]

Lt. Mike, My intention was not to cause you extra work in the cold weather. I am pleased to hear that it solved your problem. My tractor has a non adjustable fixed axel and 500x15inch tires. To be honest I never had the blade touch the tires when the bracket was in the lower position because I never angled it full right or left. I had been moving a lot of debris, dirt, rocks small limbs, etc. and the bracket would get hung up on that stuff especially when back dragging. Also it seemed to me and was true the blade would not rise up high enough off of the ground. I do not like to use other than the center holes in the blade. Keeping it in the center position would allow to tilt it maximum in either direction easier which requires manual hand lifting and lowering. I used that feature for cutting small ditches and finish grading slopes. Believe it or not that push blade has moved an awful lot of dirt, etc. I bought it used and the scraper edge had some wear on it. at the end of this summer there was even more from me using it so much. Went through the task and flipped over to the unused edge. Wow does that thing cut in now. Last item, it has not been used to plow snow yet but I am sure it will get a chance.

[Dale Finch]

Man, Mike! You are one persistent dude!! Can't believe you tackled that whole thing again! I would have sat at least a day or two pouting!!

I must say that I was very impressed with your welding, fabricating skills, and I felt your pain when you spoke of wrestling the extension on!

[Lt.Mike]

Man, Mike! You are one persistent dude!! Can't believe you tackled that whole thing again! I would have sat at least a day or two pouting!!

I must say that I was very impressed with your welding, fabricating skills, and I felt your pain when you spoke of wrestling the extension on!

F.P gave the solution which in all fairness needed to be confirmed and others with the same issue like inairam needed to know along with others left scratching their heads needed to know so I would have been kinda a jerk not to get my ass in gear and turn some wrenches.
F.P, I’ve used my grader blade on my Cub to move a lot of dirt and clear brush. Doing that I never had it angled much if any at all but when plowing snow you’ll find if you can get away with it a straight run at full angle pushing it off to the side is the fastest way to clear the drive.
Thanks again for your help.
Dale, I told you before you should get yourself a small wirefeed welder. I’ve got a Lincoln electric Handypac welder that uses flux core wire. Mig welders weld cleaner but you see you can get by with flux core. I think it’s important to say that though I’ve welded, I’m not going to say I’m a welder.
You can certainly do no worse!
Got to warn you, it can be satisfying and addictive.
My next project will be fabricating mounts for conventional mushroom style skids that can be bolted to the plow where the factory skids did.
After that I’ll weld up a mount for a front receiver hitch for the SA to make parking my boat in my carport easier. I can’t see what I’m doing when backing it in with my truck and using the SA it’s better but I have to cran my neck to see where it’s going. If I drove it in straight and in full view... now that’s the ticket!

[inairam]

Mike, You inspired me and I will be back at it this weekend. I felt the blade needed to be higher when up and the other set of holes may do it.

[Lt.Mike]

Mike, You inspired me and I will be back at it this weekend. I felt the blade needed to be higher when up and the other set of holes may do it.

Betting they will but like I said with the bigger tires if it still needs a little more room you can have that part I made.

[inairam]

Mike, followed your lead and change the mount to the other set of holes. Everything worked out and got a little more height on the lift plus the clearance.

[Lt.Mike]

Mike, followed your lead and change the mount to the other set of holes. Everything worked out and got a little more height on the lift plus the clearance.

It’s easy when you finally know what your doing.
The whole time I was making that part I knew there has to be something to it I wasn’t seeing.
I couldn’t believe the factory would make it like that. Thanks to the new guy we’ve got it right now.

Oh and I’m liking the clearance too. The mount from the pivot pin back will stay on the tractor year round and I use my tractors in the woods.
Didn’t like the thought of that hanger possibly getting hung on a log or stump. No worries now.