



So here is where it stands
Tractor was blasted and repainted.
Finals completely flushed, cleaned out all the years of gunk and grit, put in new seals and break bands installed.
Rebuild the governor and then just to be sure flushed the motor out.
Crankcase drained and flushed, lot of moisture in there from the last time I had drained it, assuming this was because didn't get everything drained last time and the casket on the shifter was missing. Stuff was yellow.
Took off the rear pully that the mower is ran off of and drained and flushed it out.
Air cleaner was completely disassembled cleaned, the steel wool was cleaned out and repacked, looks like new
Distributor was disassembled cleaned out and re greased.
Rewired with Brillman harness
Converted over to 12V
Paint on the manifold is a high temp pain my friend (Pictured) uses when he restores stuff, won't burn off and will stay like that. Forget the name put thick as snot. Will do the muffler that same way.
Just realized have the rear light on the wrong way.
Rechased EVERY thread hole, there are a lot of thread holes........
Things we have to do yet.
Hang all the other parts on not shown
Repack front wheel bearings.
Clean up and repaint the radiator black.
Still doing some body work on the tank, hood, and front cowling. Hopefully will have tank and cowling mounted this next weekend. Going to wait and do the hood when they're mounted as its flexing to much when trying to do the body work on it.
Rims will be back from being powder coated this week so hopefully get the tires mounted and back on the tractor, once this is done can figure out where I want the seat mounted and then mount it.
The original tool box has some dings on it, so need to pound them out and do a little work on it.
Also need to hook up the hydraulics, have the bypass block and going to add a secondary valve for power angle on the A60. Going to hard plumb the lines in so can keep them up against the frame tighter than the hose and will look more professional. Plan is to run the feed/return lines down the driver side of the frame, but then run the lines operating the power angle down the other side of the frame.