Radiator Woes HELP

[customcutter]

I pulled all of the sheet metal on the Super AV. I then split the upper hose down the side, hoping there would be room to "wiggle" a new hose in. Nope, less than 1" between the fittings. So, I decided I would pull the radiator (HA) and change the lower hose at the same time.

I tried removing the 2 nuts on the bottom of the radiator. The bottom right was tight so I sprayed penetrating oil on all of the fasteners. All of them came out except the bottom right, it felt like it was moving but snapped instead.

When I tried removing the radiator the bolt on the bottom left was no longer attached to the radiator so I was able to pivot the radiator on the broken bolt on the lower right around far enough to get the lower hose off.

The radiator will not come out. I tried putting some vice grips on the broken stud on the lower left side that is still stuck in the frame/chassis. It will not budge. I tapped on it with a hammer and it does not budge.

I can't tell for sure, but it appears that the studs are welded or brazed to the bottom of the radiator. There are 2 rubber square pads about 1" square with a hole through them that the radiator sits down on. They obviously keep the radiator from vibrating and rubbing on the chassis.

I put the radiator back in today and tried filling the radiator. It is leaking fluid near the stud on the lower right. It has to be leaking either around the hose or the bottom of the radiator has cracked due to twisting/pivoting the radiator on that side in order to remove and install the new hose.

The only solution I can think of is to cut the broken stud above the chassis with a hacksaw. Then I can remove the radiator and inspect/repair it. I'll also be able to weld/braze some new studs back in place. I will also have to drill out the old studs that appear to be locked into the chassis somehow for the new studs to fit through.

Any thoughts or other recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ken

[tst]

the bolts should be just carriage bolts, that slide in a slot on the radiator tank, the bolt or nut can be cut off and bolt replaced

[customcutter]

the bolts should be just carriage bolts, that slide in a slot on the radiator tank, the bolt or nut can be cut off and bolt replaced

Thanks for the reply tst:

I agree, they should be. I read in another post while doing research a couple of days ago that "early" models had the bolt attached (welded/brazed I'm assuming) and that the later models had the carriage bolts. The poster was trying to figure out how to remove the nuts because the bolts were spinning with the nuts. Someone suggested that he cut the spinning carriage bolts off with a hacksaw and replace them.

I looked at the bottom of the radiator on the side that the bolt wasn't attached too. There was no slot for a carriage bolt. Only what appeared to be build up from brazing or welding. The end of the stud that was still in the chassis was about half the diameter of the bolt and appeared to be rusted off.

Regardless of whether it is a carriage bolt or a stud. There should be a hole through the chassis large enough for the bolt to clear freely. The remaining stud can't be budged with a large pair of vice grips and didn't budge when I tried to tap it through the hole in the chassis with a hammer. I tried putting an 20" pry bar under the right hand side of the radiator that the bolt snapped on and it doesn't budge either. That's why I elected to rotate the radiator on that stud.

[tst]

I think they were a 7/16" bolt size, if its brazed I doubt it was factory, bet the carriage bolt was spinning so they brazed it in place

[customcutter]

I took a hacksaw and cut the bolt on the bottom right side of the radiator this morning. The head of the bolt is still captive in the lower part of the radiator. LOL

I had to file the tops of the bolts flat where they were in the chassis. Then I center punched them and managed to drill the right side out enough that I took a punch and collapsed the remaining piece in on itself. I tried the vice grips on the bottom of the bolt on the left hand side that had rusted off at the radiator. It would not budge so I started drilling it out with a 1/8" bit. I drilled deep enough to be through the chassis and still had over 1/2" to go. I decided to put the nut back on and try breaking it off as well. I put the nut on and threaded it up to the chassis. Then I put a double wrench on it to try and snap it off. It finally started turning and after a few minutes I was able to punch it out without any further drilling.

I guess that build up and corrosion was the only thing keeping the rusted bolt from leaking. The side that still has the bolt head captive has a large patch that was brazed onto the bottom of the radiator at one point. The rusted bolt side was soldered on with a soft silver solder it appears.

It's off to the nearest radiator repair shop in Dothan in the AM to see what they tell us. If they think they can repair it we'll have it rodded, flushed, and leak tested. I tried the local radiator shop, but apparently they closed up 10 years ago.

[Gary Dotson]

We used to have, at least 5, radiator shops to choose from, today, if I need the services of a radiator shop, I have no idea where to find one. Good luck on having yours repaired!

[customcutter]

We used to have, at least 5, radiator shops to choose from, today, if I need the services of a radiator shop, I have no idea where to find one. Good luck on having yours repaired!

Thanks, yes we went to Dothan today to a shop that's been in business since 1974. All they wanted to do was keep our radiator and order us a new one. LOL I asked him why he needed mine and he said to take measurements. I told him if he needed to measure anything to take his measurements. I wasn't driving 60 miles back to pick up our radiator if we didn't order one from him. We decided to drive another 30+ miles to Marianna and went to a shop there. They were interested in repairing the radiator we had so felt comfortable leaving it with them. We unfortunately live in what's become a disposable society. Most people seem more interested in filling landfills and buying a new one. Hopefully we will get some good news on Monday.

[tst]

brass and copper are worth money at the scrap yard, that is why they want your old one

[customcutter]

brass and copper are worth money at the scrap yard, that is why they want your old one

Absolutely, I don't know what prices are now, but a couple of years ago copper was almost $5/lb. Just guessing, I'd say that little radiator was 30#'s or better.

Funny thing, I haven't gotten a call from them with a price for a new one. LOL

[customcutter]

I talked to the shop owner this AM at the radiator shop in Marianna, Fl. He said he's pretty sure they can "repair" it. Pretty much the exact thing that I had suggested to the other shop that didn't want to be bothered with it. Hopefully have it back in a couple of days.

[customcutter]

We picked up the radiator today. Hopefully I can get back on the SAV in the morning.