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Stuck Motor
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:32 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Super C
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:32 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Super C
Re: Stuck Motor
Ok, been busy last two days. I move slow, so don't laugh. With all the encouragement you guys have been giving me, I decided to see what I could do.
I took off valve cover and removed rocker arm and push rods.
I tried once more by jacking up the right side and put it in 4th gear. Tried to move wheel, but the motor was still stuck. So I began spraying every nut and bolt I could see with WD 40 specialist.
I was really blessed. I got the the nuts off the head, I got the exhaust manifold off, loosened the thermostat housing from the head, and if I didn't miss anything, the head should be ready to come off.
I've got to be honest, I put this off for a year because I was afraid I would break a bolt. I knew if I did, I would probably never be able to fix it. I'm glad you guys encouraged me to dive in. Not one single nut gave me any trouble!
It was close to dark before I was able to get close to removing the head, so I stopped right there and put away my tools and all the parts I had removed. My wife labeled all the zip lock bags and put all the nuts in the bags.
Tomorrow is another day, but they say we have rain coming.
Oh I did find one odd thing. One of the nuts of the exhaust manifold was a different size. Someone put a 13 mm nut on. I kept scratching my head trying to figure out why my 9/16 wouldn't fit the thing!
Oh one more thing. I haven't been able to check them close, but the push rods don't "appear" to be bent. When I get time, I'll roll them across a piece of window pane to make sure they're straight.
One question, I was reading on here and I noticed that someone recommended replacing head bolts during a rebuild. Is that correct?
I took off valve cover and removed rocker arm and push rods.
I tried once more by jacking up the right side and put it in 4th gear. Tried to move wheel, but the motor was still stuck. So I began spraying every nut and bolt I could see with WD 40 specialist.
I was really blessed. I got the the nuts off the head, I got the exhaust manifold off, loosened the thermostat housing from the head, and if I didn't miss anything, the head should be ready to come off.
I've got to be honest, I put this off for a year because I was afraid I would break a bolt. I knew if I did, I would probably never be able to fix it. I'm glad you guys encouraged me to dive in. Not one single nut gave me any trouble!
It was close to dark before I was able to get close to removing the head, so I stopped right there and put away my tools and all the parts I had removed. My wife labeled all the zip lock bags and put all the nuts in the bags.
Tomorrow is another day, but they say we have rain coming.
Oh I did find one odd thing. One of the nuts of the exhaust manifold was a different size. Someone put a 13 mm nut on. I kept scratching my head trying to figure out why my 9/16 wouldn't fit the thing!
Oh one more thing. I haven't been able to check them close, but the push rods don't "appear" to be bent. When I get time, I'll roll them across a piece of window pane to make sure they're straight.
One question, I was reading on here and I noticed that someone recommended replacing head bolts during a rebuild. Is that correct?
Its me, Ant-Knee
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 17536
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
- Zip Code: 21550
- Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Re: Stuck Motor
Hairy Moose Knuckles wrote:One question, I was reading on here and I noticed that someone recommended replacing head bolts during a rebuild. Is that correct?
Yes. Especially since you probably don’t know how many times they’ve been on and off previously.
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 4908
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: .
1970 International 140
1972 International 140
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Stuck Motor
Here's one I tried to reuse, it was an original and stretched. Luckily it didn't break.
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:32 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Super C
Re: Stuck Motor
Got the head off. I have several pics. It's giving me a rough time trying to find an easy way to post. I'm not smart enough to get them all on one post.
Does anyone have any ideas from the pictures? Any help advice is much appreciated.
Does anyone have any ideas from the pictures? Any help advice is much appreciated.
Last edited by Hairy Moose Knuckles on Mon Apr 29, 2019 11:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Its me, Ant-Knee
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:32 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Super C
Re: Stuck Motor
If you look directly under this picture, I posted another once I got all the fluid soaked up. This seems to be the cylinder that's stuck.
Last edited by Hairy Moose Knuckles on Mon Apr 29, 2019 10:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Its me, Ant-Knee
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:32 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Super C
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:32 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Super C
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:32 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Super C
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:32 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Super C
Re: Stuck Motor
I stood there yesterday trying to figure out my next move.
1. I know those head bolts need to come out. How do you guys normally try to remove them? I could try to back them out with a pipe wrench? Is there a better/easier way? Is there some type of specific tool?
2. I assume that weeping head gasket caused this mess. Why was only 1 cylinder affected?
3. The head was pretty carboned up. Is that normal?
4. From my reasoning, it looks like I could try a couple of things. I can continue to try rocking wheel to get it unstuck or I can drop the oil pan and try to get the piston out.
I'm sure open to anyone's ideas.
1. I know those head bolts need to come out. How do you guys normally try to remove them? I could try to back them out with a pipe wrench? Is there a better/easier way? Is there some type of specific tool?
2. I assume that weeping head gasket caused this mess. Why was only 1 cylinder affected?
3. The head was pretty carboned up. Is that normal?
4. From my reasoning, it looks like I could try a couple of things. I can continue to try rocking wheel to get it unstuck or I can drop the oil pan and try to get the piston out.
I'm sure open to anyone's ideas.
Its me, Ant-Knee
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6712
- Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
- Zip Code: 27517
- Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Chapel Hill
Re: Stuck Motor
To get the bolt out, you might try double nutting them, using the inside nut to remove the bolt after jamming the two nuts together. Using a penetrating oil, alternate between the two nuts to work the bolt back and forth in very small increments. Good luck.
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- 5+ Years
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- Joined: Tue Nov 28, 2017 2:12 am
- Zip Code: 65608
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50 Farmall Cub bugeyes(dead)
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JD 790 4x4 w/backhoe
hinomoto diesel 4x4, early to mid 80s 20HP
73 Pasquali 4x4 diesel 33HP
74 Toro golf course tractor
Gilson 18HP - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Missouri Ozarks
Re: Stuck Motor
no pipe wrench! not yet at least, a sure way to break those bolts. patience is key right now and lots of penetrating oil applied many times. heat can help if it doesn't budge. I heat the bolts to make them expand then let them cool completely. As Dale said, back and forth a tiny bit to persuade the bolt it isn't part of the block a gentle tapping on the bolt can help the oil to work into the head. I like to clean around the bolt as much as i can to remove the crud and give the oil a place to seep into.
better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it...( YES this includes CUBS! )
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:32 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Super C
Re: Stuck Motor
Thanks Dale and Indy. I appreciate your wisdom. I didn't think about jamming two nuts together.
I'm not sure if new nuts will come with new head bolts, so I'll just go get a handful of nuts to use.
I'm pretty excited about this project. I haven't been excited about anything in years. It's given me something to look forward to each day.
I'm not sure if new nuts will come with new head bolts, so I'll just go get a handful of nuts to use.
I'm pretty excited about this project. I haven't been excited about anything in years. It's given me something to look forward to each day.
Its me, Ant-Knee
-
- Team Cub
- Posts: 17316
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
- Zip Code: 55319
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MN
Re: Stuck Motor
A couple comments on the head bolts.
First, they are studs, not bolts.
Second, people routinely replace head bolts, but not so often studs.
Third, I haven't seen the studs first hand and could be totally off base, but I haven't seen anything to convince me the studs need replacing. I just see some minor surface rust that needs to be cleaned off to see how much damage is really there. That rust could be mostly from the head.
Fourth, if a head stud fails during reassembly, it will probably strip the threads or break off near the nut. You are not likely to be in a worse position than you are now for removing the remaining portion.
First, they are studs, not bolts.
Second, people routinely replace head bolts, but not so often studs.
Third, I haven't seen the studs first hand and could be totally off base, but I haven't seen anything to convince me the studs need replacing. I just see some minor surface rust that needs to be cleaned off to see how much damage is really there. That rust could be mostly from the head.
Fourth, if a head stud fails during reassembly, it will probably strip the threads or break off near the nut. You are not likely to be in a worse position than you are now for removing the remaining portion.
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6712
- Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
- Zip Code: 27517
- Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Chapel Hill
Re: Stuck Motor
Actually, he's right. I agree with Jim...forgot we were talking about studs!
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