Stuck Motor

[Dale Finch]

Sheesh! Not much to hang on to with those narrow fronts! At least the Cub and SA's have the wide front and a steering shaft that you can use to "steer/drive" the front end away from the engine. Someone hopefully will come along with some experience and wisdom to pass along. Good luck!

BTW, I was curious, and did a bit of Google searching with different phrases, like "Splitting a Farmall Super C" and "Engine removal from a Super C" etc. Some interesting videos and photos...might check them out until someone wiser than I comes along!

Can you just leave the tractor together? Why did you need to split it?

[Hairy Moose Knuckles]

The only reason I was even thinking of splitting was to take the motor to a machine shop to clean it up and let them rebuild.

As it were, my plans were to get it unstuck, put it back together and see how it did.

[Hairy Moose Knuckles]

Our weather has been unpredictable lately. That and dr appointments have kept me away from tractor. I was stove up for a day or two after falling, but I'm ok now.

Took time to bring carb in the house so wife could read what kind it is. She says zenith made in USA.

Still puttering around and haven't dropped oil pan as of yet. I keep hoping that MM oil will free it up. A fellow can hope, can't he?

[Don McCombs]

Our weather has been unpredictable lately.

I'm not exactly sure where the weather IS predictable.

[Hairy Moose Knuckles]

I hear ya, Don.

Well, puttered around a bit more. Dropped the oil pan. I noticed the bolts were different lengths, so I noted where they go back. I'm not just talking about the 4 longer bolts, it had some that were shorter than the others.

I noticed one of the cotter keys missing from the nut when I loosened the connecting rods from the crank. All the other nuts have cotter keys.

I gave it a few taps with a block of wood and a rubber mallet, but she is stuck.

There was a bunch of antifreeze in the oil when I drained it.

It was getting sundown and wife wanted me to eat supper, so I put tarp back over the engine. It's suppose to rain a couple of inches tomorrow. Plus, I've got more Dr. Visits.

I guess you can tell, I just putter along. A few years ago I'd had that sucker out already.

[Hairy Moose Knuckles]

One thing worth mentioning. Yes, the oil pan was full of antifreeze, but the bore is real shiny.

From the way it's stuck, I kinda figured it'd be rusty, but no.

[Rick Spivey]

So if the bore below the piston is clean, then knocking it loose downwards seems the better option. I've never had to do that, but assume you would have to remove the crank to go all the way out the bottom. Maybe you could go downward to get it loose, then clean up the cylinder wall above the stuck piston in order to come out the top.

[Hairy Moose Knuckles]

Rick,

I bet your right about coming out the bottom. I'm not sure what all is involved in removing the crank, but I'll research it.

It rained all day, so I just sat around and thought about the tractor.

[Hairy Moose Knuckles]

Got the rebuild video, it was pretty good. I would have liked some better close up shots and would have liked better audio quality, but it's done well enough to get the engine apart and back together. I'd give the video a B+.

That's just my opinion. I don't have good eyes so someone else watching it, it might be just fine.

It's definitely not a one person job, so I'll get my butt out the way and let my best friend and my nephew do all the work. I'll set here and supervise.

[Hairy Moose Knuckles]

Took some pics. Only have one cap off at the moment.

On the bearing, the scoring you see is enough to grab a fingernail.

In the first picture that cap seems to be wearing in that one spot. At least to me it does.


Also, Just out of curiosity, what do those numbers tell you?

[Hairy Moose Knuckles]

Finally have all the rod caps off. It has rained off and on the whole month of May. Number one piston will move up & down, but it gets to the top and just won't pop free. Of course we haven't forced it either, just taking it easy so as not to ruin anything.

[Eugene]

Number one piston will move up & down, but it gets to the top and just won't pop free.

Remove the ring ridge. Usually takes a ridge reamer.

[Hairy Moose Knuckles]

Thanks Eugene.

I piddled around some more today. Mostly spraying every nut and bolt I can find with PB Blaster and trying different nuts/bolts to see is they can be removed. Nothing major mind you, just the ones like the bolts holding the gas tank and the light bars and stuff like that. The gas tank has been off for years and dirt dobbers had filled the bolt hole, so I cleaned it out and threaded the bolt back in.

I also removed the temperature sensor that had been broken off in the past. The threads were either corroded or had been overheated. Most of the threads were shot. I'll probably need a thread chaser at some point.

At least nothing has broken off so far. If I come to something that doesn't want to give, I shoot it with PBB and move on to the next one.

When I'm done, I should know where every bolt / nut is.


Oh hey, one more thing, I found my gas line! I don't plan to reuse it, but at least now I can take it in and have one made. Still haven't found the sediment bowl yet.


There are several square head bolts I want to ask y'all about. They were under the cowl on the front end of the tractor. I think there are 3 of them. They really didn't want to come loose, so I didn't force the issue. I'll let them soak.



I'm taking my time setting up to split, so I can get the motor out and to the machine shop. I probably should have just left the rod caps on and let the shop do their thing, but I wanted the experience. I'm actually enjoying just puttering around. I get to piddle for 10 or 15 minutes come in and rest and go back out when I feel like it.

[Boss Hog]

where you located? I may have an unstuck engine

[Hairy Moose Knuckles]

Pm sent.