Farmall Cub

Hi, this is only my second post (after introduction). My son and I have a farmall h that he plans to convert to a 12v with the help of an old farmer friend of ours. I'm wondering if anybody can give me a super-simplified, condensed, list of parts or a kit that I should buy to send with our tractor to the farmer who will be converting it? All I know so far that I need to get is a 12 volt battery that will hopefully fit inside that red box, and a 1-wire alternator with pully, Delco type 10-s1 which it sounds like I could find on most GM cars in the junkyard? and the 12 bulbs for the lights...that's a big deal to my son lol. I know there's probably a lot more. If you were trying to make it as easy as possible for the guy doing the work, what else would you be sure to provide him with when he starts this project? I don't even have any manuals so it's hard to know where to start.

Please be kind! I know I probably sound like an idiot, but gotta start somewhere!

Thanks Much,
Emily

here is one type for delco 10, if you have a distributor you will need a new coil for 12 volt with an internal resistor, aside from the bulbs, if you have a magneto coil not needed, you can buy a delco 10 now that only uses one wire to make it even easier to install from suppliers such as a napa store

Why do you want to convert to 12V?

I just put THIS KIT from Brillman on my H. It had everything I needed except the battery. I used a 26R battery from Rural King.

I only ran it for a minute to make sure it worked, then split the tractor to replace the flywheel ring gear.

No Rudimentary instructions in the kit. The alternator bracket is adjustable 6 ways to Sunday and it took some trial and error to get it right.

One thing that is a little concerning is it's a 63 amp alternator and the tractor wiring and ammeter are only good for 20 amps. Unless you load it up with accessories though I think it will be fine.

With the 1 wire alternator you don't need the warning light or the connections to the 1 and 2 terminals on the alternator that are shown in the diagram that tst shared. The kit from Brillman includes a 12V coil so you also won't need the ballast resistor. If your tractor has a magneto you won't use the coil.

You will need to reverse the connections on the ammeter or it'll read backward.

Bob McCarty wrote:Why do you want to convert to 12V?

6 volt works fine as long as you have good connections.

first of all, you dont sound like an idiot. if you dont ask you wont know, thats why we are here. i hope your son will be learning from the farmer so he knows how to work on it in the future. there are many sources for the manuals online and many of the folks in here will send you what you need. it always good to have the manual in hand when working on these GEMS in the shop.

Now, if the 6 volt is working currently i wouldn't change it. they are fine if you go through and clean all connections and apply a little dielectric grease to them. when it breaks then do the conversion.

Welcome to the Forum to both you and your son! You have found the best and right place for answering your questions about IH equipment.
Take a look at this post on the SA Forum, Information and instructions should be the same for your application. Good Luck!!!
viewtopic.php?f=170&t=108852

I had to correct my earlier post. There were instructions with the Brillman kit. The kit was a birthday present from my wife and when she pulled out the invoice she also grabbed the instructions.

So now I have the instructions, a week after I did the job. It's a good thing I pay attention to all the electrical diagrams that get posted here.

Might want to put in LED lights.....brighter and less draw on system.....I would stick with 6 volt positive ground......makes you think....hahahaha!!!

KETCHAM wrote:Might want to put in LED lights.....brighter and less draw on system.....I would stick with 6 volt positive ground......makes you think....hahahaha!!!

Need to be careful with 6V LEDs.

I bought a pair of 6-30 volt AC/DC PAR 36 LEDs to put in the housings that came on my H. They would cut off when the tractor was running and reset if turned off for a couple minutes.

I recently switched the tractor to 12V and the lights still need to be reset every few minutes with the tractor running. I've reached the conclusion that noise from either the charging system or ignition system gives the power supplies in them fits.

I'm going to be picking up some incandescent lights for it.

There is a big difference in the quality if LED lights. I have learned that the hard way. You could try connecting a capacitor from the light lead to ground to see if that helps.might need to experiment a little to see what size. I would guess in the area of .01 to .1 micro farad at 50 volts would be good. If you have access to a junk old style tv or radio you can probably find one in it. n In case you wonder, I am a retired electronics technician, even have a degree in it, though a capacitor solving your problem is only a guess. might need a inline voltage regulator.

This video might be helpful. Steiner is not a site sponsor and I am in no way promoting them.

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:You could try connecting a capacitor from the light lead to ground to see if that helps.might need to experiment a little to see what size. I would guess in the area of .01 to .1 micro farad at 50 volts would be good. If you have access to a junk old style tv or radio you can probably find one in it. n In case you wonder, I am a retired electronics technician, even have a degree in it, though a capacitor solving your problem is only a guess. might need a inline voltage regulator.

I'm guessing the lights have a voltage regulator built in since they're rated 6-30 volts AC/DC.

I thought about trying a capacitor and maybe an inductor too but since Harbor Freight has a pair of 55W Halogens for $10 it just doesn't seem worth the effort.

FWIW, rather than upgrade the wiring and ammeter on my tractor I put a 20 amp circuit breaker at the alternator.

Is your circuit an automatic reset by chance?

stay with standard sealed beam lights and you will be fine---- led crap just dont always work --- they are too picky about how they are hooked up and are NO better than standard lights! ----- I had to get rid of the ones on the last skidloader I bought. seller said he spent big bucks on them and they never did work!